digital multimeter

[maxingout]

I always have a digital clamp on dc multimeter on board Exit Only, and I use it frequently to check that all DC electrical systems are up and running.

I routinely apply the multimeter clamp over the output of the solar panels just to be sure that they are putting out current. I'll do the same thing with the wind generators to be sure that they are putting out current.

I also use the clamp on function to make sure that the field wire has current flowing through it to the alternator.

It's a quick and easy check up of the current flowing in critical areas on board.

I'm not so much interested in the precise amount of the current that is flowing as much as I want to know that the circuit is working as expected and that there is a substantial amount of current flowing in these important systems.

[RickD]

I would agree with the folks recommending Fluke.

I have a Fluke 77, it's very old and has never failed me.

Many years ago I worked for the White House Communications Agency for President Reagan and was one of his Senior Radio Techs. Our job was to travel in before the President and VP and set up comm so they could remain in touch with the White House and other world leaders instantly.

The job was awesome.

My travels usually put me on top of some of the highest buildings in the world.

One day we were installing some antennas on top of the two twin buildings in LA - near Century City ( dont remember the name of the buildings).

I had left a Fluke 77 sitting near the edge of the building where I'd been testing some cables for the antennas.

My partner manage to swing an antenna pole in the wrong direction and flip that meter off the roof.

it fell around 40-something stories and hit the concrete below. Witnesses said it bounced 3-4 stories BACK UP.

When I recovered the meter, it had suffered a cracked glass front and had lost one of the leads of the meter (I think the black one, was lost in some bushes I guess).

The meter worked perfectly.

We shipped it back to Fluke and the put it in an ad and I got a new meter.

The one I have now, I bought about 20 years ago. So I highly recommend them (I have two other digitals I wouldn't want to drop off the bench, let alone 40 stories!)

[anathema]

Agreed, out of any of the meters I've used in the electrical engineering trade, fluke is now the only one I will trust to keep ticking as long as I take some small amount of care.

They will take phenomenal abuse before dying.

[SoonerSailor]

I have a Fluke 88 and Scopemeter 123, and of course like them very much. I also have several $6 multimeters from Harbor Freight that get used for this and that. Yes the cheapos are very cheaply built, and I sure wouldn't expect them to last on a circumnavigation, BUT, amazingly, the DC voltage readings are within 1 or 2 hundredths of my Flukes in the 12 volt range. And that is off the shelf without any attempt to calibrate.

[stevensc]

Sears has a set including nice DVM, IR thermometer with laser, clamp attachment ( I think AC only) for DVM. circuit tester, and thermal attachment for DVM all in a zipper case $99.00 for the lot.
Steve

[Extemporaneous]

Can some of those in the know (not me, at least not yet) tell my if the spec's on this unit look okay?
Particularly the low end of the DC Amp meter and the infrared temperature function.

Thanks,
Extemp.

[GordMay]

Extech EX810/820/830 Clamp Meters:
http://www.extech.com/instrument/pro...s/EX800_UM.pdf

The EX830 is a True RMS AC/DC Clamp Multi-Meter c/w (IR & Thermocouple) Temperature.

This looks like a decent multi-meter, for under $200 (±$185); but I doubt most DIY’ers could justify the cost.
You could save a lot of money, if you delete the requirement for Non-Contact IR Temperature, and live with a Thermocouple probe.

[Sandero]

What is / are the differences between to 20 -60$ multimeters and the Flukes class which are several hundred? I am sure that precision / accuracy is certainly a factor. But how important is that for the yachtsmen who is looking for shorts, continuity, voltage to 1 decimal place and so forth?

I am looking to replace a radio shack one that died... Is premature death something you get in the lower priced models?

Can someone recommend some lower priced units for basic use?

[btrayfors]

The Velleman's are pretty ubiquitous these days. You can buy them for $20, usually, and I've even found them for $15.

They look good (a little like Flukes), and seem to hold up well. I've got three of them at the moment; often give them to my clients. Usually open 'em up and calibrate them to my Fluke 189 at around 12VDC, since that's the voltage most important for accurate reading on yachts.

A Google search will turn up lots of places to buy them, including this one:
http://www.tubedepot.com/tl-dvm850bl.html

Bill

[anathema]

Yeah more so than all out accuracy, something you tend to get with the higher models is high quality easily replacable components.

A $10 radio shack meter MIGHT last you a year or two in a tough salt water environment, but I doubt it.

With a fluke you get a meter that will take an ungodly amount of abuse, and maintain a high accuracy over a longer period of time than any cheap Motomaster, etc.

There is a reason that every person in the industry(electronics, not sailing) uses a Fluke or similar quality meter.Hell my fluke doesn't have as many features as a $20 princess auto multimeter, but 20 years down the road, the fluke will still be going strong despite the drops, rain, dirt, grease, and other hazards I have exposed it to.

Not to say they are indestructible, but they are just a very good meter.

It almost sounds like it, but I dont work for or have even ever met anyone who works for fluke, but I just love their stuff, it has treated me very well.

[stevensc]

I bought a set at Sears, Craftsman brand it had circuit tester, IR thermometer with laser aiming, nice digital multimeter with clamp (Clamp reads AC only) and temperature probe for reading air temp or others not read by the IR themometer "gun" all in a zip up pouch. I believe it cost $99.00
Steve

[Jmolan]

At the risk of being laughed at. I bought two of the $5 jobs at Harbor Freight. I opened and used the 1st one and have not had to open the other one yet after a year of banging around in my tool box. I had a serious electronics nut friend check it out and he just laughed at how good it worked....

Now as for the grinder at $20....well it last most of the whole repaint and bottom job...so what?

Harbor Freight Tools

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by Liberty28

My personal experience is that anyone who actually thinks that a digital multimeter is giving them accurate voltage readings to three and four decimal places is badly misinformed.

Yup I own five meters and only three ever agree within a one or two one hundredths...

[GordMay]

Of Acoustic’s 5 DVMs, I see a (left - right) a Wea, Sperry Mastech, & Extech - but no Fluke.

For those wishing a quick tutorial on understanding specifications for DVMs, see the Fluke download:

Understanding specifications for precision multimeters:

http://support.fluke.com/calibration...00_ENG_A_W.PDF

[amytom]

For boat use the accuracy is not that critical. I have collected a half a dozen flukes because of the work I do, but on the boat I have a cheapy from Autozone that came with the boat. When (if) I sail over the horizon I will bring a Fluke with me because I already own them.

You have to think about what your paying and what you need it for. All I need is basic functions on the boat. 12V voltage I use the cheapy, 12V current I generally use the built in panel meter, temperature I have a cheap Harbor Freight IR meter. The AC clamp I've only used once on the boat and that was to see if the heater coil was working properly on the central air conditioner. (clamps only work on AC as with DC there is no collapsing magnetic feild to measure)

For the original question, two choices 1) buy two cheapys from Harbor Freight as well as a IR temp meter or 2) buy a fluke on E-bay then go to Harbor Freight for the IR meter