Correct Way to Make a Weatherproof 2 into 1 Wiring Connection?

[Dockhead]

I have pulled two cables up to my first spreaders for power to my spreader lights, and power to my PTZ camera.

I am very pleased with the cable I finally found (after a torturous Internet search) -- real marine tinned two conductor 16 awg cable encased in a robust PVC waterproof jacket.

But I need to distribute power from one cable to two spreader lights on either side of the mast. I had first thought about pulling separate cables for each side, but it's getting crowded in my mast conduits.

So what is the right way to split the power off to two different fixtures?

The only thing I have been able to think of is to crimp (I have heat seal Molex crimp connectors and a quality Swedish crimp tool) two into one, seal up with a heat gun, then seal again with a heat shrink tube. Then leave the joint inside the mast.

What do you guys think? Is there a better way?

[Zil]

Could you run to port light and then across to starboard.

silicone filled heat shrink is good stuff.

[David M]

I like your idea Dockhead. You might finish off the outside of the splice with some liquid electrical tape as a double measure to make sure water stays out.

Permatex 85120 Liquid Electrical Tape, 4 oz : Amazon.com : Automotive.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

So what is the right way to split the power off to two different fixtures?

You want one of these:


3-way heat shrink butt splice

[osirissail]

Rather than all that what I do is use a butt splice connector that is large enough to accept both wire ends on the "2-wire" end of the butt connector and then strip back extra insulation on the single wire end, then double the bare wire end back on itself and insert into the butt splice connector. Crimp and seal and cover with adhesive heat shrink.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by osirissail

Rather than all that what I do is use a butt splice connector that is large enough to accept both wire ends on the "2-wire" end of the butt connector and then strip back extra insulation on the single wire end, then double the bare wire end back on itself and insert into the butt splice connector. Crimp and seal and cover with adhesive heat shrink.

Nasty though. Very difficult to get good crimp strengths

Dave

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Nasty though. Very difficult to get good crimp strengths

Dave

Also not needed because you can simply buy but terminals for a different size wire at each end, like "yellow" at one end and "blue" on the other end. But I don't think these exist with heatshrink so you just add glue-lined heatshrink and that's it.

[Lake-Effect]

The key things (in my sometimes humble opinion)
- the cable running up the mast is well supported, so there's no pull on connections
- enough slack that the splices can be made easily and tucked into the mast (and checked/remade in future if necessary)
- the splice should be a crimp-type: butt-splice or cap-splice (my fave)
- heat-shrink and/or sealant to waterproof the connections

[edit] good, strong crimps can be reliably made by anyone using the correct-sized crimp conectors and controlled-cycle (ratcheting) crimpers. ABYC specifies 'pull' strengths that a proper crimped connection must be able to withstand.

[goboatingnow]

I'd have to say, this is one of thoses situations I be tempted to solder. Slide in a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink, strip the main wire to expose piece , twist on additional conductor, solder , heat shrink into a Y

I dont like crimps that can't be inspected.

Dave

[osirissail]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Nasty though. Very difficult to get good crimp strengths
Dave

Maybe for you, but not for me as I use the correct crimping tool. The crimp is as good and as strong as any single/double wire butt connector crimp. Skill makes it easy along with reducing the variety of sizes of butt terminals you need to stock. Everybody to their own opinions . . .

Officially for one to two or more wire junctions a terminal board with ring terminals is proper. But in situations like cross-overs from one mast spreader light to the other "Zil" (post #2) has the best suggestion. Then you do not have a "floating" connection somewhere inside the mast tube where it would be very difficult to get to service/inspect.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by osirissail

Maybe for you, but not for me as I use the correct crimping tool. The crimp is as good and as strong as any single/double wire butt connector crimp. Skill makes it easy along with reducing the variety of sizes of butt terminals you need to stock. Everybody to their own opinions . . .

No I meant that placing two conductors into a crimp designed for one, tends to lead to deformed crimps. Also doubling up the wire to utilise a crimp that's designed for bigger conductors isn't a good idea , but as Nick says you can get non symmetrical but crimps

Dave

[Lake-Effect]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

I dont like crimps that can't be inspected.
Dave

100% agree. I never like to bury a connection, of any kind.

[model 10]

There is no way. You need to run another wire from a location in the boat where you can have a splice or a terminal.

[goboatingnow]

Just thinking Dockhead. Why not run to one side and wire to the lamps then run a wire across to the other side. That way , there's no buried splices as they are interconnected at the lamp terminals and can be inspected.

Can you get a wire across the mast ?

Dave

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Just thinking Dockhead. Why not run to one side and wire to the lamps then run a wire across to the other side. That way , there's no buried splices as they are interconnected at the lamp terminals and can be inspected.

Can you get a wire across the mast ?

Dave

That is what Zil wrote in post #2