Best Way to Cut 2/0 to 4/0 Battery Cable

[bobfnbw]

Was going to use a ancor batter cutter ANC-702006 CABLE CUTTER HEAVY DUTY but it si backordered. What do you all use to cut heavy duty battery cable?
Could a jig saw with a metal blade, or a dremel type tool (rotozip) be used to make a good cut? Don't want to screw up a expensive cable...
Thanks.

[S&S]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Was going to use a ancor batter cutter ANC-702006 CABLE CUTTER HEAVY DUTY but it si backordered. What do you all use to cut heavy duty battery cable?
Could a jig saw with a metal blade, or a dremel type tool (rotozip) be used to make a good cut? Don't want to screw up a expensive cable...
Thanks.

These are better:

http://www.ktool.net/servlet/the-287...cheting/Detail

Not so heavy duty , but strips as well

http://www.ktool.net/servlet/the-289...1-Cable/Detail

A hacksaw and a knife will work in a pinch.

[svHyLyte]

When I installed the 2/0 wiring for our windlass I found that tightening a nylon wire tie on either side of the point where I wanted the cut--leaving about .25" between them--and then using a Dremel Tool with a fine cut-off wheel was fast and easy. The wire ties keep the wire from unraveling and one cand slid them back from the cut enought to allow the insulation to be removed and the cable slipped into lugs quite neatly.

A discussion of my experience appears at Cleaning Corrosion from High Tension Electrical Cables

FWIW...

[bobfnbw]

Your link is broken, do you have the part number ?
Would it be this?

http://www.kleintools.com/ToolCatalo...oltCutters.pdf

[S&S]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Your link is broken, do you have the part number ?
Would it be this?

http://www.kleintools.com/ToolCatalo...oltCutters.pdf

yes, you're in the right spot. the non racheting ones work fine but you really need to squeeze for 4/0.

I like the 63060.
the utility cutter will cut 4/0 fine (63065)

[bobfnbw]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

When I installed the 2/0 wiring for our windlass I found that tightening a nylon wire tie on either side of the point where I wanted the cut--leaving about .25" between them--and then using a Dremel Tool with a fine cut-off wheel was fast and easy. The wire ties keep the wire from unraveling and one cand slid them back from the cut enought to allow the insulation to be removed and the cable slipped into lugs quite neatly.

A discussion of my experience appears at Cleaning Corrosion from High Tension Electrical Cables

FWIW...

Thanks for that link.. good job on the installation.
Have you ever found the 2/0 cable there to be undersized? Wish you had put down 4/0?
I have a similar problem. The PO had a optima battery for the lofans tigress windlass, supplied with 2g cable to charge it, but the battery never go charged as the breaker for it was broken...
I have since removed the battery, and plan on just running a new cable to it.
The 2 g will be insufficent for it, so either 2/0 or 4/0, a difference in cost of about 2.50 per foot, for a 25 foot one way run.... so 50 feet say. swo 250 to 375 just for the cable.. but then a battery, that has to be changed out every 5-7 years will cost me 250.. so the cost of the cable is justified.
I believe I will go with the 4/0... as the new anchor will be a 60 lb manson supreme... loaded with mud, will weigh quite a bit..
of course the engine will be running while its being used.

But back to the original posting... I guess I will go with the rotozip and a metal cutting wheel, I will try your suggestion on the cable ties.
Thanks.
Bob

[btrayfors]

Bob,

A little-known tool known as the "Handi-Cut" sold by Sears is the most useful and versatile cutting tool I've ever seen. And, they're cheap. I have four...at home, on the boat, in several tool kits. I use them several times a day for many cutting tasks.

These puppies will cut thru 2/0, 4/0 or any smaller size wire like butter, making a very clean cut. Moreover, they're very useful for stripping the cables, for cutting heat-shrink tubing, and for many, many other tasks.

This link shows the two sizes. I have just the smaller one, and find it's all I need. They sell for $19.95 and, sometimes, are on sale for $15. They come with extra blades in the handle. Be sure to buy extra blades, though, and an extra plastic cutting platform. These are sometimes hard to find, so I snap 'em up whenever I see one.

Here's the link: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003b

Bill

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Have you ever found the 2/0 cable there to be undersized? Wish you had put down 4/0?...

Thanks.
Bob

Bob--

I sized our 2/0 wire on the strength of the advice of Grodon May, Bill Treyfors et al. Upon checking with a fairly accurate meter, I found less than a 3% voltage drop from the batteries mounted in the engine space to our windlass. We have the Maxwell VW1200 that collects our 3/8" chain and our 45# CQR very easily. Our sistership with the same windlass has 5/16" G4 and a Rockna 25 and reports the same.

Regards,

s/v HyLyte

[FrankZ]

I ordered this cutter and have been happy with it thus far.

[Cheechako]

a hack saw works fine.

[bobfnbw]

Originally Posted by btrayfors

Bob,

A little-known tool known as the "Handi-Cut" sold by Sears is the most useful and versatile cutting tool I've ever seen. And, they're cheap. I have four...at home, on the boat, in several tool kits. I use them several times a day for many cutting tasks.

These puppies will cut thru 2/0, 4/0 or any smaller size wire like butter, making a very clean cut. Moreover, they're very useful for stripping the cables, for cutting heat-shrink tubing, and for many, many other tasks.

This link shows the two sizes. I have just the smaller one, and find it's all I need. They sell for $19.95 and, sometimes, are on sale for $15. They come with extra blades in the handle. Be sure to buy extra blades, though, and an extra plastic cutting platform. These are sometimes hard to find, so I snap 'em up whenever I see one.

Here's the link: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003b

Bill

Thanks Bill....
Ordered the set with some extra blades... will keep on on the boat and one at home.
The larger cutters are great, but once done with the rewire won't have much need for it... just like the big ancor cable crimper I have. But it will do a quality crimp, and thats what I want.
Thanks to all that posted. I appreciate it.

[bobfnbw]

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

Bob--

I sized our 2/0 wire on the strength of the advice of Grodon May, Bill Treyfors et al. Upon checking with a fairly accurate meter, I found less than a 3% voltage drop from the batteries mounted in the engine space to our windlass. We have the Maxwell VW1200 that collects our 3/8" chain and our 45# CQR very easily. Our sistership with the same windlass has 5/16" G4 and a Rockna 25 and reports the same.

Regards,

s/v HyLyte

I think I will go with the 4/0, but will wait till the end and see. I don't like that the PO had a battery there, so there is a break in the wire, down low for the battery connection, which is now corroded.

[S&S]

No-one was ever sorry using larger gauge wire.

[FrankZ]

Originally Posted by S&S

No-one was ever sorry using larger gauge wire.

Until you realize it doesn't fit.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

I think I will go with the 4/0, but will wait till the end and see. I don't like that the PO had a battery there, so there is a break in the wire, down low for the battery connection, which is now corroded.

If you can find a Berkshire Wire dealer their UL 1426 marine battery cable is considerably more flexible, a handy feature with 4/0, than Ancor, Cobra or Pacer wire is.

It's the wire I use exclusively these days. Very nice stuff, less expensive and made in MA, USA...

Berkshire Cable & Electric Co. (LINK)

Genuinedealz.com is also a very good place for marine battery cable and they will install lugs for $1.00 each plus the materials and adhesive lined heat shrink. Their 4/0 wire is $7.74 per foot. Their cable seems to change manufacturer from time to time but the usual suspects like Ancor, Berkshire, Pacer and Cobra all make good stuff..