Best Way to Cut 2/0 to 4/0 Battery Cable

[North26West80]

If you do this for a living, then get the right tool. For the rest of us, a small hose clamp around the cable to hold things together and a hacksaw works fine. Just not quite as fast.

[perchance]

Originally Posted by S&S

No-one was ever sorry using larger gauge wire.

You won't be sorry but with copper at about $4.85 a pound you will be somewhat poorer. If you want to save a little don't oversize unless your one of those fabled "rich" cruisers.

[Extemporaneous]

Originally Posted by Wainui

I used 2/0 with a 35' run (each way) to a ARCO 1200 windless pulling a 55lb Rocna on 3/8 chain. The engine needs to be run while using the windless or the 175 amp breaker would trip. I have used the hand cutters hundreds of times on 2/0 and 4/0 (I supply lighting and power for the entertainment industry) with no problems. 4/0 is heavy cable.
Good luck
Mark

So do I have it right that when the engine is not running, there is so much Voltage drop that the corresponding Amperage increases enough to blow the breaker??
Is that what is happening?
Shouldn't you be running 4/0 at those distances?
Is a small battery bank contributing to the problem.

I do do agree and understated that one should run their engine when using their Windlass but if one doesn't...... should it blow the breaker?

Regards,
Extemp.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Extemporaneous

I do do agree and understated that one should run their engine when using their Windlass but if one doesn't...... should it blow the breaker?

Yes it's normal although I would install a larger breaker (at wire current carrying capacity) and operate the windlass in the knowledge that I can burn the motor if I'm stupid.

p.s.: I just take the slack from the anchor chain which makes the boat move forward; keep doing that until the chain is up & down. Break the anchor out using the motion of the boat; assist with engine if needed, not the windlass. Then it's just hauling it up and load on windlass motor is minimal.

cheers,
Nick.

[osirissail]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Was going to use a ancor batter cutter ANC-702006 CABLE CUTTER HEAVY DUTY but it si backordered. What do you all use to cut heavy duty battery cable?
Could a jig saw with a metal blade, or a dremel type tool (rotozip) be used to make a good cut? Don't want to screw up a expensive cable...
Thanks.

Hacksaws work really well - but - unfortunately folks are using the wrong one. They grab their garage workshop hacksaw used for cutting iron and steel and try to cut thin stranded cable. Doesn't work very well, kind of like trying to cut your dinner steak with your big toothed bread knife. - - The hacksaw you need to use is the miniature one sold next to the big regular ones in the hardware store. The blade is usually about 6 inches or less long and has very small close spaced teeth. The hacksaw cuts through the cable quickly and without ripping anything. - - The rule for machinists using any "toothed" cutting blade is to use a tooth pitch that puts not less than 3 teeth at a time into the material being cut. This prevents the jerking and ripping. So get one of the small (almost toy sized) hacksaws with lots of small teeth and you can cut that cable neatly and cleanly. And you don't need expensive electrical tools either.

[osirissail]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Was going to use a ancor batter cutter ANC-702006 CABLE CUTTER HEAVY DUTY but it si backordered. What do you all use to cut heavy duty battery cable?
Could a jig saw with a metal blade, or a dremel type tool (rotozip) be used to make a good cut? Don't want to screw up a expensive cable...
Thanks.

Hacksaws work really well - but - unfortunately folks are using the wrong one. They grab their garage workshop hacksaw used for cutting iron and steel and try to cut thin stranded cable. Doesn't work very well, kind of like trying to cut your dinner steak with your big toothed bread knife. - - The hacksaw you need to use is the miniature one sold next to the big regular ones in the hardware store. The blade is usually about 6 inches or less long and has very small close spaced teeth. The hacksaw cuts through the cable quickly and without ripping anything. - - The rule for machinists using any "toothed" cutting blade is to use a tooth pitch that puts no less than 3 teeth at a time into the material being cut. This prevents the jerking and ripping. So get one of the small (almost toy sized) hacksaws with lots of small teeth and you can cut that cable neatly and cleanly. And you don't need expensive electrical tools either.

[EddieS]

A 4 inch angle grinder with a zip wheel is fast and easy.
Thanks
Ed

[Maine Sail]

Wow so much over thinking an easy task. I cut wire up to 4/0 with this simple Klein cutter and this thing is beat on, and the jaws are chewed up because my brother tried to cut a stainless bolt with them.. They still work though. This is not tough stuff to cut..

This is 2/0 could not find a scrap of 4/0 kicking around but it is awfully cold in the barn right now and I know I did not look hard enough...... Made the video just for you guys...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jkokFaWpMU

[Maine Sail]

Okay one more just to show how easy cutting finely stranded UL1426 battery cable is.

I grabbed my wife's inexpensive Fiskars anvil style garden pruners from her garden shed and cut this 2/0 wire one handed.

This pruner has cut more branches, shrubs and yard crap than I can even imagine and it made very easy work of this 2/0 cable. This tool is similar to the one Bill referenced from Sears in its operation yet I suspect Bill's suggestion has a better quality blade.. I think she paid about 12.00 for these Anvil pruners at Home Depot.. No need to over think cutting soft multi-stranded cable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TARwBsnCUSk

Hacksaws? Die grinders? Sheesh you'd think this stuff was hard to cut, it's not.... For $12.00 I think it may be tough to beat those Fiskars... I hope my wife doesn't notice them missing....

[FrankZ]

I thinking you are stating to have too much time on your hands, time to get some sailing done.

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by FrankZ

I thinking you are stating to have too much time on your hands, time to get some sailing done.

Ice boating perhaps..??

[Extemporaneous]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Yes it's normal although I would install a larger breaker (at wire current carrying capacity) and operate the windlass in the knowledge that I can burn the motor if I'm stupid.

Ya, I think I like that approach. So long as one considers the electric motor is probably 20% duty cycle.

Thanks,
Extemp.

Oh ya. Nick it's "normal". Okay, but is it related to what I mentioned?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Extemporaneous

Nick it's "normal". Okay, but is it related to what I mentioned?

Yah (I'll switch to Dutch "Ja" soon :-), voltage drop is the cause but without testing it's impossible to tell if it's the wiring or the batteries or anything else in the circuit that is causing the voltage drop.

ciao!
Nick.

[SV Demeter]

I used the 63035 model picutured here:

http://www.kleintools.com/ToolCatalo...oltCutters.pdf

was great for 2/0 and would prob do 4/0 too. Made very nice clean cuts and cost like $40 I think at Home D's.

[artsteffey]

Originally Posted by bobfnbw

Was going to use a ancor batter cutter ANC-702006 CABLE CUTTER HEAVY DUTY but it si backordered. What do you all use to cut heavy duty battery cable?
Could a jig saw with a metal blade, or a dremel type tool (rotozip) be used to make a good cut? Don't want to screw up a expensive cable...
Thanks.

take a heavy duty kitchen knife and place it where you want it cut, then with a heavy hammer hit the back of the knife. It makes a clean cut!!!