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Old 13-05-2009, 21:30   #16
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redcobra-I have installed several of them in a variety of vessels, private and commercial. They are a simple piece of equipment to install with no adjustments. They will pass as much as 30 amp to a second battery.

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Old 14-05-2009, 09:33   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfingminniwinni View Post
Is anyone using a Battery Combiner? I like the idea, of not having to switch battery switches etc: A combiner seems like the ideal solution, according to the adverts. What are your experiences?

Thanks.
Good idea in concept but beware of this situation. You have a battery combiner rated at 30 amps. It connects two battery banks together say bank 1 & bank 2. You put a heavy load on bank 1 say anchor winch taking 100 amps. As bank 1 has lesser charge than bank 2 most of the current is taken from the latter through the relay easily exceeding it's current limit, frying wires & ultimately burning your boat - BEWARE!

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Old 14-05-2009, 10:34   #18
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The Magnum Energy combiner has a short-circuit protection along with an overcurrent (different control) disable/enable circuit. You don't have to worry about how you hook it up including reverse polarity.
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Old 11-06-2009, 07:02   #19
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Thumbs up Battery Combiner ?

I used a Blues Seas ACR and it ate my alternator belts...why ?

The house bank would start in ramp up to bulk charge mode and when the charge voltage got to 13.? volts the ACR pulled in and connected the start bank...if discharged..went severely into bulk mode ..suddenly...no ramp...belts squeeled..and well you know the result...black **** everywhere and broken belts.

I now have a Vetus FET isolator...almost no volt drop (cf diodes) perfect isolation ...and ALL batteries are charged together...no broken belts...no black ****....all batteries enter bulk mode after ramp up...happiness !!

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Old 11-06-2009, 07:30   #20
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Albro359-I will not disagree that you had a problem that was "fixed" by removal of the ACR, but think about the physics involved. Your house bank was being charged by a three step regulator controlled alternator and it was in bulk mode ramping up to the acceptance charge voltage knee. The alternator is putting out almost as much current (mechanical load) as it can. When the ACR senses 13.6 VDC for 30 seconds or 13.0 VDC for 2 minutes it combines the starting battery. If the starting battery has only been used to start the engine, then it may have 1 amp-hr discharged out of it. If the starting battery also powers other equipment (windlass, bow thruster, etc.), then the scenario changes.

It is my opinion that you had something else going on that caused all hell to break loose as the addition an electrical load as low as that represented by the starting battery was not the cause.
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Old 11-06-2009, 17:02   #21
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Thanks Charlie,

I omitted to mention that my batteries are AGM (315Ah house + 105Ah start) which have a high charge acceptance rate. The start battery starts the engine and runs the anchor windlass.
My alternator (was) a 65A Hitachi with an external 3 stage reg which has a special setting for non-hot rated alternators that limits the current after a period of time in bulk mode...I had a diode isolator and I replaced it with the ACR. I think these things combined were all part of the problem.

The other thing I have since discovered is that V-belts ain't all the same ...I used to buy automotive belts from our local engineering shop and was changing them regularly. I've since found that the best belts are raw edged toothed industrial belts from Dayco..they last and last....

So now we have a 110A Balmar alternator with good belts and a FET isolator, the system works well.
As you say the devil is in the detail...but attention to the details usually provides the solution !
All the best
Alan
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