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27-12-2007, 19:10
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Boat: Hunter 40
Posts: 112
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Bat monitor
Hi there,
I am thinking of buying a link 2000R bat monitor and reg. I notice there is a shunt for the alternator but if I also have a wind gen and solar power, will the system record the amp hour in from those sources as well?
Also... I think my knowledge of a DC electrical system is fair, but while looking at the wiring of my newly acquired boat, I found something that made me scratch my head a fair bit. From the + terminal of the house bank came a wire that went to a 50 amp breaker, and then went straight back to that same terminal. Does this serve a purpose?
Thanks for your help,
this forum has amazing discussions and great information
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27-12-2007, 20:09
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charlotte Harbor, FL
Boat: Westsail 32
Posts: 301
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Hi there,
Can't answer your question about the breaker.
As for the monitor, if wired properly, it will take into account all current going in and out of both your starting and house bank. The "properly" part is imperative though - the monitor has to be the first thing connected to the battery (other than a fuse) and all current must flow through the battery monitor shunt.
Also, don't fool yourself into thinking the L2000R is a better monitor just because it's more expensive. It has more features, but they require other equipment; it can control the Freedom series of Xantrex inverter/chargers. But unless you plan to install an Freedom (which would be odd considering there are new, better I/Cs for the money), the "R" part will be useless.
For most people, the Link 10, or better yet the newer "XBM" monitor are great. You don't really need to know the power going in and out of your starting bank unless you use it as a powerhouse for your windlass, bow thruster, etc. But your engine will probably be running then anyway.
My pennies.
Happy holidays!
Aaron N.
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"Only those who see the invisible can do the impossible."
W32 #482 Asia Marie
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27-12-2007, 22:06
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#3
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Boat: Modified Choate 40
Posts: 8,937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus Driver
From the + terminal of the house bank came a wire that went to a 50 amp breaker, and then went straight back to that same terminal. Does this serve a purpose?[/SIZE][/FONT]
Thanks for your help,
this forum has amazing discussions and great information
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I would say not! Being a 50 A it was probably hooked up to a winch motor or windlass at one time and the wire was just routed back to prevent a short (a chop job). If you sure about the routing, I'd just pull it out. No since of having useless wiring going nowhere.
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Faithful are the Wounds of a Friend, but the Kisses of the Enemy are Deceitful!
A nation of sheep breeds a government of wolves!
http://choate-40.blogspot.com/
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28-12-2007, 02:33
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#4
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C.L.O.D.

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 23,064
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As Del indicates, the "wire that went to a 50 amp breaker, and then went straight back to that same terminal" can serve no possible purpose, and should be removed.
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Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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28-12-2007, 07:44
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Boat: Hunter 40
Posts: 112
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That's what I figured about the 50 amp breaker. I couldn't figure out why someone would not have taken it out so I thought maybe it serves some strange purpose that I don't know aboiut.
As for the Link 2000R.... I am looking at that one because it inlcludes the multi step regulator which seems like a good deal for the whole package (thinking of getting a higher output alt)
If I don't go the new regulator way.... any coments on other monitors.
I see Defender sells this 600-DCM
Digital DC Monitor
I did lots of searching on this forum and it seems most go for the links.
Thanks
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28-12-2007, 09:00
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Fredericton, NB, Canada in the summer and fall; Caribbean in winter and spring aboard Cat Tales.
Boat: FP Tobago 35 (and a H-21 SE)
Posts: 442
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I'm guessing that your alternator is a large power source, your wind generator is a mite smaller, and the solar panel(s) are smaller still. This means that your monitor/shunt combination will not tell you what is and isn't working when all are running, and will be quite inaccurate when you only have a solar panel on it. I chose to have separate, properly sized shunts and amp meters for each power source. (Although I haven't assembled the new panel yet.
Of course, my system will not add up and monitor the total amount of energy coming in or going out of the bank.
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28-12-2007, 09:12
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Boat: Hunter 40
Posts: 112
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Hi Sonosailor,
I am looking at that multiple shunt option with ammeter as well. It would be very nice to know what charging system provided what during a certain period. I am trying to find ampmeters that have Ah recording capabilities but so far I've only found some that were for RC applications.
Noticed that you are from Fredericton, I'm originally from Moncton.... People from all over on this forum
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28-12-2007, 09:28
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 495
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another possible is microlog
Santa brought me a Microlog DMM4 and shunt for Xmas. He got it from www.blyachting.com and total price for both was less than $200 incl. tax and shipping. And since some people on this thread are maple leafers, this stuff appears to be made in Laval, Quebec if ya wanna keep some bucs in the country for a change.
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28-12-2007, 11:43
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#9
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Damned Yankee

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 8,141
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In some systems the current shunt is installed in the negative (ground) cable at the battery, or battery bank. If you have multiple charging sources, each feeding a different positive feed (until they combine somehow) but all using the same common negative cable to the battery--then in theory the one shunt can accurately show you the total amount of current coming from all sources. (If the shunt is placed in a positive common, it can do the same thing.)
But it will be just that: One total, not individual numbers. In order to measure power from each of the sources, you would need a separate shunt inline with each source, and then a selector or separate meter attached to each shunt. That's actually fairly simple, using a matched voltmeter to read the voltage drop (which is what's actually measured) across each shunt. All Electronics Corp - Parts, Supplies and Components has a number of shunts with inexpensive digital meters matched for them, if you want to go that route.
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28-12-2007, 15:55
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Petersburg, FL
Boat: Hunter 40
Posts: 112
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Thanks for the reply,
Great website for the parts, it's in my bookmarks. Thanks for all the great info!! I think I will just hook up the one battery monitor for now and perhaps I get creative witht the other shunts later on.
Take care,
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