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Mickeyrouse · 30-10-2015, 16:41

Here's the electrical problem du jour: no output indicated on my Balmar 6 Series alternator.
What I've done:
Per the troubleshoot guide in the Balmar manual, I have checked voltages at the Ford-type (4 wire) strip connector at the MC-612 regulator. All pins read voltages within the expected ranges in all three states: 1) ignition off, 2) ignition on, 3)engine running.
I have checked the alternator for the shaft/magnetic condition: ignition off, no magnetism at shaft ; ignition on, magnetism at shaft.
I have checked for continuity on all wiring to and from the alternator, no problems.
I have checked the fuse, no problem.
I have checked for corrosion on all terminals, no apparent problem.
On the possibility that my instrument panel voltmeter is defective, I am taking output readings from the feed to that meter via my Fluke 73 volt/ohm meter. It reads battery voltage when ignition is on. Upon cranking and running five minutes, no change or increase in voltage.
In testing the AC to drive the tachometer I get about 8.25 volts, with minimal variation with engine speed. What should it be? Would that be indicative of alternator gremlins?
I have not removed the alternator for testing at an alternator shop. That is no small task, and that is something I want to do only and if no other procedure will isolate the problem.
But I'm out of ideas.

Navicula · 30-10-2015, 18:20

smac999 · 30-10-2015, 19:32

what is your voltage at the field post of the alt when running?

what is the voltage between the pos and neg post on the alt when running, and not running.

**estarzinger** · 30-10-2015, 19:38

Did you buy it dinner?
Expect it to put out on your first date?
Buy it some nice new red high heels?

gts1544 · 30-10-2015, 19:45

We had a similar problem on our Beneteau down in the BVI's. www.PKYS.com sold us Balmar rebuild kits for the Series 6 for approx. $180 @. We bought 2; 1 for the rebuild and 1 for an onboard spare. George

transmitterdan · 30-10-2015, 20:38

Buy her a new set of diodes. She'll put out then...

Mickeyrouse · 30-10-2015, 22:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by estarzinger

Did you buy it dinner?
Expect it to put out on your first date?
Buy it some nice new red high heels?

We've been friends a long time. She's not in to shoes- she's a working gal ( usually) and we always split the check.

Mickeyrouse · 30-10-2015, 22:17

Add'l info: the alternator was producing (I won't say " putting out" again) before I had to slide the engine forward for re-mount work last summer. Naturally all cables to battery, instruments, regulator, etc. were disconnected so as to not restrict the engine while temporarily re-located. I believe something has not been connected, or connection not making good contact, or something disrupted in the move. But what?

Mickeyrouse · 30-10-2015, 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by smac999

what is your voltage at the field post of the alt when running?

what is the voltage between the pos and neg post on the alt when running, and not running.

No voltage reading

smac999 · 30-10-2015, 23:14

No voltage where? No feild voltage is a bad regulator (or cable). No voltage at alt is a bad cable or fuse. you should have 12v when off, and 14v while running. Well unless you have a diode isolator...

boeing1 · 31-10-2015, 08:13

what is your battery voltage, if batteries almost flat I have see some alternators will not charge the batteries

**HappyMdRSailor** · 31-10-2015, 08:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by estarzinger

Did you buy it dinner?
Expect it to put out on your first date?
Buy it some nice new red high heels?

Ya beat me to it Evans...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mickeyrouse

We've been friends a long time. She's not in to shoes- she's a working gal ( usually) and we always split the check.

Priceless reply !

Mickeyrouse · 31-10-2015, 09:36

Well I think I've been trying to read output at the wrong place- it's been a couple years or more since I last checked how I set this up. The altn'r is actually feeding the house bank which then feeds the engine start via a Digital Duo Charge. Since I was trying to read at the engine batt naturally it wouldn't show any change when the engine ran. Got to thinking about it last nite and remembered where it's really going. Reading off the house bank, it starts out at battery voltage. When the engine is started, it gently rises to about 14.4 V, and settles in there.
One more reminder of how a comprehensive boat wiring diagram can save a lot of time. You'd think I'd know by now.

Cheechako · 31-10-2015, 09:49

Well... it's working then. You dont need a wiring diagram to know to just check your voltage at the battery, if the engine's running it should be in the range you found. 14.3-14.4 v.
I highly recommend you get a Voltmeter installed. But many instruments; GPS, VHF radios have one built in if you look at the manual.
I usually install a voltmeter with a two way switch to check voltage at each battery bank on my boats. Cheap and simple. I no longer prefer one of those fancy electrical management devices, though some do.