Balmar 100 amp alternators

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by kwiggy

As a matter of interest, how do you control output levels with the Balmar regulator? Is it via a PC or app, or through a control panel?

There's an adjustment process done using an external magnet, google for the MC-614 manual and read Maine Sail's site for details.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by john61ct

There's an adjustment process done using an external magnet, google for the MC-614 manual and read Maine Sail's site for details.

https://marinehowto.com

[rgleason]

The setting is called Belt Manager each increment reduces the max output 5%.

I would very much like to know more about a64's alternator setup.

[john61ct]

Small Engine Mode is also worth checking out.

[bgallinger]

Originally Posted by kwiggy

Hi, I am looking at getting two of the Balmar 100 amp 621's with Balmar regulators for our catamaran (two engines). Has anyone had any experience with these? I understand that this model and size is supposed to OK with the original brackets on a Yanmar engine.

I searched for posts about these, but couldn't find anything relevant.

Appreciate any experiences you've had with these.

Thanks Keith

I installed the Balmar 100 amp alternator with the Balmar MC614 external regulator about 2 years ago on my boat. For best results may I suggest you follow the guide on https://marinehowto.com/. It clarifies the instructions that come from Balmar.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by rgleason

The setting is called Belt Manager each increment reduces the max output 5%.

I would very much like to know more about a64's alternator setup.

Call Rich Boren then, the Cruise RO Guy, goes by Third day here.
I bought most of it from him, got the Balmar 614 off of EBay.
Originally started with a Mark Grasser which is a good controller, just not as adjustable as a Balmar though, but he has a new one that I don’t know about.
It’s just a standard Mark Grasser 165 alternator with a Balmar serpentine belt kit. Almost certain that Balmar bought or buys the kit like they do the original Smart Gauge, but it’s a good kit.
If I had to do it again, I would research Mark Grasser’s belt kit, cause I’m pretty sure he has one that increases the alternator RPM by quite a bit. We pretty seriously underdrive our alternators, I’m pretty sure that has to do with packaging as in the current pulleys fit into the allowable space given to the Design Engineers and has little to anything to do with performance. Speed it up and it will make lots more power and run much, much cooler, or course you have to stay within the alternators RPM limits, but it may surprise you how high that is.
I wasn’t aware that Mark Grasser made a belt kit when I bought mine.
I do not consider my alternator to be a prime charging source, it’s there cause if I’m running the engine anyway, why not take advantage of it?
It won’t quite cover my Watermaker though, it pulls close to 10 amps at 120 VAC which would take 100 amps continuous from an alternator to provide accounting for efficiency losses in conversion etc.

Balmar is I’m sure a fine piece of equipment, maybe a little overpriced for the name, and I prefer if I call to talk to the guy who actually manufacturers the product if possible, and that is one reason I went with a Mark Grasser alt.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Small Engine Mode is also worth checking out.

Here you go:


Alternator heat, Regulator Controls, Small Engine Mode

Alternator heat, Regulator Controls, Small Engine Mode

Small Engine Mode - discussion with link to the picture of the toggle switch: Alternator heat, Regulator Controls, Small Engine Mode

Small Engine Mode - the picture of the toggle switch Alternator Output Management with External Regulators [Small Engine Mode]

[rgleason]

Using a switch across the 614 or ARS5 regulator alternator temperature blades to drop the alternator to 50% power would be useful for long runs with FLA, but with LiFePo4 batteries a switch on the ignition wire to drop all charging might be more useful, depending on the battery arrangement used, to avoid overcharging the LFP.

I believe A64 is correct about the MG serpentine ratio being greater than Balmar's 2.2 ratio. I believe Bruce advised that the ratio is 2.5.

I have no doubt the MG J165 amp is a good alternator.

[NYSail]

Originally Posted by kwiggy

As a matter of interest, how do you control output levels with the Balmar regulator? Is it via a PC or app, or through a control panel?

If you have the balmar regulator to change settings through the touch screen using the magnetic screw driver that came with the regulator. You have to download sequence.... I read about 10 times before going to it.... was not difficult. I downgraded my 150 Balmar 3 steps and also adjusted the charging profile to match my batteries. The regulator from the factory does not have appropriate bulk and absorption periods / volts to charge sufficiently.


Good Luck!

[rgleason]

A64 wrote:

If you want 100 amps continuously from an alternator and expect a long life and trouble free operation, I don’t think you can get there with a small frame alternator, maybe with external diodes, but I think your better off with a large frame, they are meant to make lots of power continuously, the mass and cooling is there.

Thank you. That is good advice. It appears that the LFP gurus are now drastically limiting previous claims by manfacturers of charge/discharge rates of .5 to 1C advising that these rates will reduce the number of cycles. It appears now that even 0.3C is too much, which means more $ for a bigger bank, or limits the practical size of an alternator, for me, below 100a, down to 60 to 80a needed for a 200ah bank.
These charging rates are hardly any better than FLA or AGM rates. What a disappointment. The only advantage of LFP is the lack of resistance, efficiency and lack of a long charge tail like FLA and to a lesser extent AGM and even less carbon AGM (Firefly).

[rgleason]

NYSail
Which Balmar 150a?
Belt type and ratio?
What is your estimated max continuous output?
What temperatures do you see for the alt and batteries generally.
Thanks.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by rgleason

It appears now that even 0.3C is too much

Not that I've come across, where did you get that idea?

> These charging rates are hardly any better than FLA or AGM rates. What a disappointment. The only advantage of LFP is the lack of resistance, efficiency and lack of a long charge tail like FLA and to a lesser extent AGM and even less carbon AGM (Firefly).

Which you still have. Going a bit higher on the charge rate is not a Big Mistake just slightly suboptimal wrt maximising longevity.

With lead you need 5-7 hours to get to full.

By using LFP changing from .5C to .3C may mean going from 60 minutes to 100, big deal?

You're only disappointed because your expectations were too high.

Let's look at the bright side: maybe you don't need to upgrade your alt! Go the DC-DC path for your LFP, leave all the other charge sources as they are, and see how you go, might well be plenty!

[johnmort]

Take a look at the Electromaax alternators ,I am of the opinion that they are a better piece of equipment.
They deliver higher amps at lower rpm with really good heat dissipation

[eemahoney]

I installed a VUP 100 Kit on a perkins 4-154 that is a 621 alternator single 1/2 inch vbelt drive rated at 100 amps and a AGM regulator.. 4 years and about 9000 cruising miles ago. Rarely does the load go over 80 amps charging my 880 AH AGM bank, I monitor both battery temp and alternator temp, and allow the regulator to reduce output accordingly. I have no problem, and the Balmar provided brackets and hardware fit and work perfectly.

[chris in SG]

Apologies, I've read the first and last page of this thread - my point may have been covered already.

I installed two 6 series 100amp Balmars on Yanmar 3YM30s, naively taking the manufacturer's/distributor's advice that these would be fine with the original single V belts. This is just not true. I strongly believe that Balmar should be taken to task about this. They should sell these alternators together with the serpentine belt system as a 'mandatory' package. If they did so, the cost of the combined package would deter many buyers and no doubt that is why they continue to maintain that it isn't necessary.


Some of you will say "just use the belt management system". Well firstly, you can't avoid the hint of misrepresentation by passing the buck to another item of equipment which is also optional. Secondly, you can't sell an alternator with 'x amps' output and expect the customer to accept x minus 25% (I say "x" and not 100 amps because I'm not suggesting that 100 amps is achievable) because the customer will think "wait, I just upgraded my alternator by 25% and now I'm back where I started.."


I ended up buying a single serpentine kit because the price shock of buying two was unbearable and I rationalized this by planning to prioritize house bank charging from the engine closest to the batteries.


Just writing this as a caveat to the OP..