Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 24-01-2010, 21:56   #1
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Air X Wind Generator - Yaw Bearing

I need to replace the yaw bearing on my Air x wind generator.

I've removed the hub and blades, the face with stator and rotor, I've pulled out the slip rings with the wires still attached and I've removed the bearing snap ring. Because the wires are attached to a connector at the other end I will have to cut them to remove completely. I haven't taken the circuit out yet but i will, if need be. to be safe.

But before I go any further (cutting wires /removing circuit board) I wanted to ask if anyone has any tips for removing the bearing. Because the bearing is inside the housing there doesn't seem any easy way to use a gear puller to push it out.

Once I have removed everything (if that's necessary) I could try and tap the yaw body out of the bearing but i would be hitting at an angle and I don't want to damage the wire holes or the threaded hole for the slip ring bolt. Could I jury rig something using this bolt and push it out ?

And then of course, I have to remove the bearing from the casing and replace it.

Like I say if anyone has done this before or has any tips to make it safer or easier I would appreciate any help.

Jim
__________________

__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24-01-2010, 23:24   #2
Registered User
 
paradix's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Australasia
Posts: 284
Hi Jim,

Sorry, not an answer to your question about the bearing itself, but if you do need to take the whole circuit etc. out, this document will show you how to do it. You shouldn't need to cut any wires.

It also has a really clear exploded view of the whole system at the end - much better than the one in the owner's manual I think - so that might help you too.

You've probably already seen this anyway

Good luck

http://www.windenergy.com/documents/...structions.pdf

Edit: Actually on closer reading, it shows the removal of the yaw shaft by bashing it with a rubber mallet in fig. 3, with some instruction on how to do it, which I think might answer your question after all?
__________________

__________________
paradix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 01:39   #3
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
paradix

Thanks so much. No, I hadn't seen that Instruction Sheet before. Boy you wouldn't want to miss with that mallet.
Great stuff, its why this is such an excellent forum.

Jim
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 03:18   #4
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Okay, I've tried hitting it with a mallet. No way, that thing is going to move without some serious force.
Any ideas, anyone ?
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 03:36   #5
Registered User
 
paradix's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Australasia
Posts: 284
Have you tried the other suggestion in step 10 - jemmying between the yaw body and the main body with a screwdriver?
__________________
paradix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 04:40   #6
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Well. I want to leave that one till last. I'm going to do some serious damage to the powder coating once I start doing that. I might end up just gourging the aluminium. I could try some penetrating fluid for a few days. I'll take the electronics out. I don't want to cut the wires but I might have to and then get serious with the mallet.
I'm not really a very patient person but even I can see some serious damage happening if I'm not careful.

Thanks for the reply

Jim
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 08:44   #7
Registered User
 
cdennyb's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern California
Boat: finally a catamaran dive boat...
Posts: 505
Send a message via MSN to cdennyb Send a message via Yahoo to cdennyb Send a message via Skype™ to cdennyb
Do you have a way to obtain or fabricat a "C" clamp style press you can clamp around the outer housing and apply straight donw presure on the solid hub shaft?
Maybe a straight push on it would release it where as a sideways impact won't. Just a thought. Maybe sending it back would be money well spent. They have the tools and speciality stuff to quickly and safely repair the damn thing. I hate it when something is made so you need some ca-gillion dollar speciality tool to use one time in the effort to keep something maintained properly. Good luck.
__________________
the perfect dive boat is one you're on...
cdennyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 15:27   #8
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Because of the rounded body the C clamp would need to be specifically manufactured. Although, you got me thinking. Maybe I could make a small screw jack mechnaism out of a bolt and a long nut. Wedge it between the open casing and the yaw body. Opening the nut will put pressure on the yaw body against the casing. I'd need to protect and spread the load on the aluminium casing.
I sent Southwest windpower an email. Maybe they have an idea.

Thanks
Jim
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 16:16   #9
cruiser

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tampa to New York
Boat: Morgan 33 OutIsland, Magic and 33' offshore scott design "Cutting Edge"
Posts: 1,594
I've taken mine apart numerous times. Using a mallet is folly. I cut wedges of increasing thicknesses and drove them in at intervals around the yaw shaft. Be careful handling the board. It has programmed chips that will fault with the slightest static spark. Use of a wriststrap to ground yourself to the chassis is recommended. (Like a pc technician would use. If you use the wedges their best made short. If they go in too far they can curve in and damage moisture seal on yaw bearing. (Not a problem in your case.)
__________________
forsailbyowner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 16:19   #10
cruiser

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tampa to New York
Boat: Morgan 33 OutIsland, Magic and 33' offshore scott design "Cutting Edge"
Posts: 1,594
Ps I removed yaw assembly assembled as per sw directions removing. And disassembling slip rings not necessary.
__________________
forsailbyowner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 16:28   #11
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Thanks forsailbyowner

I would rather not take the circuit board out. Will driving wedges cause too much shock, vibration and damage the circuit board if I leave it in while I do it ?

BTW I got an email back from Southwest Windpower. They only take phone calls and there international number doesn't work.
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 17:16   #12
cruiser

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tampa to New York
Boat: Morgan 33 OutIsland, Magic and 33' offshore scott design "Cutting Edge"
Posts: 1,594
I left the board in, but my problems were with the board. I replaced it twice then scrapped it the third time used a $12 bridge rectifier in place of it. I never got more than two years out of one of the $150 boards. If you have the slip ring disassembled,to remove the board , its a simple matter of removing four hex bolts and disconnecting the plug for the potientometer and led. Would probably be safer to remove board first. Following sw directions given with new board I left it in when removing yaw shaft assembly. Wedges didn't damage powder coat, its pretty tough. Assembling I'd assemble yaw asembly before installing. I don't see how you would install brushes assembling the slip rings in casting(although I've never tried it that way) the other way didn't give too many headaches. Just hold each brush in place as assembly is tapped back in.
__________________
forsailbyowner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 17:58   #13
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
That sounds like a good way to proceed. I'll take off the slip rings, take out the electronics, put the slip rings back in and then use some wedges. I like the wedge idea. It will put max pressure on the bearing without stressing the casing. At the moment I've used slivers of toothpick with tweezers to hold the brushes back but I'll sort the replacing part when I get to it.

From what you've said, sounds like I'll be lucky if the thing is working again after I put it back together.

But I don't have any choice. There is a lot of movement in that bearing and it "hobby horses" like crazy when it is operating.

Thanks again

Jim
__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 18:27   #14
Registered User

Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
Jim,

You should take the unit to a local macine shop and have them machine a puller, which is a cup slightly larger than the bearing dia. While they are at it have them also make a nut that will fit inside the unit and pull the bearing into the cup through the use of a large screw. I used a 1/2" and it worked great. It is also a good tool to keep.

Good luck
__________________
Soiree is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-01-2010, 18:49   #15
Registered User
 
jpemb7's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mooloolaba, Australia
Boat: Farrier Command 10 Tri
Posts: 183
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soiree View Post
Jim,

You should take the unit to a local macine shop and have them machine a puller, which is a cup slightly larger than the bearing dia. While they are at it have them also make a nut that will fit inside the unit and pull the bearing into the cup through the use of a large screw. I used a 1/2" and it worked great. It is also a good tool to keep.

Good luck
Would this puller be designed to remove the Yaw shaft as the well as the bearing. If so could you explain the detail a bit more for
me.

Thanks
__________________

__________________
jpemb7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
generator, wind generator

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Air-X Land vs AIR-X Marine Wind Generator tomj Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 42 25-06-2011 18:08
Air-X Wind Generator in Shutdown Mode boat_alexandra Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 5 05-08-2010 10:18
RFI from Air Breeze Wind Generator Beausoleil Marine Electronics 4 01-06-2009 18:43
Air-X wind generator, with mast & supports khansz Classifieds Archive 0 27-04-2009 17:11
Air-X Wind Generator...worth the money for marine version? Trim50 Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 7 13-12-2008 22:10



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 21:25.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.