Swagman:
I don't think think that you are being stupid at all. This can be done simply provided you are careful not to use
appliances that are sensitive to US/ Euro phase difference. It will
work well for your
battery chargers and anything without a
motor.
This color coding is based on the latest European color code and is
as follows:
1. Brown = European Hot
2. Blue = European Neutral
3. Green with Yellow Stripe = European Grounding (or
Safety Ground)
USA 220 Volt AC typically has 4 wires with color codes as follows:
1. Red =
USA Hot
2. Black = USA Hot
3. White = USA Neutral for 110 volt
circuits only
4. Green = USA Grounding (of
Safety
Ground)
NOW, as you measure Voltage AC (RMS = root mean square voltage,
which is what your digital volt meter more or less shows you)
between the following points you will get the following readings:
EUROPEAN: Between the Brown and Blue Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Blue and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads Zero Volts AC
Between the Brown and the Green with Yellow Stripe
Reads 220 Volts AC
USA: Between the Red and Black Reads 220 Volts AC
Between the Red and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the Black and White Reads 110 Volts AC
Between the White and Green Reads Zero Volts AC
When
wiring the 220 Volt AC cable from the boat to USA
power the following should be done:
a. The Brown Wire (European Hot) should go to either the
USA Red or Black wire
b. The Blue Wire (European Neutral) should go to the USA
Red or Black wire (whichever the Brown wire isn't connected
to. My understanding, and please somebody correct me if I am wrong,
is that the polarity of these two connections (red and/or black to
blue and/or brown makes no difference).
Finally the Green with Yellow Stripe wire should go to the USA
Green wire.
The USA white wire has nothing connected to it from the European
cable.
The given appliance or load doesn't care about polarity since it
is
alternating
current (AC). All the load cares about is that there is
an EMF (ElectroMotive Force) of 220 Volts pushing the electrons back
and forth in the wires of the load (e.g. the lamp, motor etc.) Again
this discussion doesn't take into consideration the frequency
with
which the electrons are moved back and forth (Hertz). If I
understand it correctly the naming of the wires (Hot, Neutral etc is
somewhat arbitrary) and hence confusing at times.
I know that it works as I did exactly this when I brought my Amel SM to the US in 2002.
I did consult a few marine electricians and some so-called knowledgeable sales persons at the local West Marine. They all were a bit dubious but none of them could give me a good explanation of why it would not work.
If anyone out there has any critical comments or thoughts, I would be most interested.
MDL