I have built my own panels out of ABS plastic. There is no sense in being restricted to someone else's pre-built designs. I found that by designing my own panel that it was exactly what I wanted and I was able to get more into the same space.
At the very least you will want to measure:
For AC, shipboard voltage, shipboard amps, shorepower amps and volts.
For DC, start battery voltage, house voltage, house current
and if you wish, I measure alternator
output in amps. Your inverter/charger should have on its panel, DC voltage and amps and also AC voltage and amps.
There are other things you could measure but I think those are the very basics. That should give you a pretty good picture of what is going on with your electrical system.
A reverse polarity indicator for your AC is nice. You could also put LED's on your breaker panel as a reminder that something is on that draws a lot of current
such as pumps, heaters and fans. I have yellow LED's for those things.
I prefer heat shrink crimp terminals. I have never had one fail or get hot. I also coat all my bare connectors with Tef-Gel. Tef-Gel does not affect plastic insulation
. The Tef-Get stops any oxidation. The Coast Guard does not allow soldered terminals or soldered wire splices on inspected vessels because in theory it could melt, plus I think it is more or less a waste of time. Silicon grease also works but it does not hold up as long. Never use anything but silicon grease around rubber. Petroleum based greases will swell rubber. As already mentioned, use tinned wire, like Ancor wire. Use the marine
grade heat shrink. I know that sounds stupid, but supposedly it is more resilient to water
penetration in a high vibration environment