sebberry, try to get marine grade wire. It might make a difference. It is made up of finer strands than the regular and each strand of copper is coated in solder.
Thanks guys. I'll play more when the stuff arrives.
Just for craps and giggles, here's what passes for acceptable in the car audio world:
4 gauge wire in a fuse block. The block accepts the wire from three different directions and has a set screw on the top. As you can see, more wire in the block is exposed than making contact:
Wire removed from block, set screw making contact with about 1/4 of the strands:
ABYC 11.14.5.5 Connections may be made using a set-screw pressure type conductor connector, providing a means is used to prevent the set-screw from bearing directly on the conductor strands.
__________________
Gord May "If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
Marinewiring standards and equipment are different in that a "terminal" is applied to the end of each wire. The "terminals" are crimped to the wire and then attached to the electrical part/distribution/protection device such that the "terminal" cannot "slip off" the item. That translates most often to the use of "ring-style" terminals.
- - European boatwiring systems use "pin-terminals" rather than "ring-style" terminals. The pin terminals insert into the European terminal/distribution blocks which have a set screw to clamp down on the pin-terminal.
My whole European boat is wired with ring terminals. There goes that theory
Dave
Not a theory - I have worked on several European boats and they had the pin system which was a bitch as getting new pin terminals was difficult. Personally I prefer the ring terminals, but for already installed distribution bus terminal bars you have to go with what is already there. All the boats were very new boats.
- - That some European boats have the pin system does not mean that all of them have pin terminals - just that you may see terminals other than ring types. I suspect it is a manufacturer decision based on worker time needed to connect up electrical systems. It is quicker to install pin terminals than ring terminals.
Not a theory - I have worked on several European boats and they had the pin system which was a bitch as getting new pin terminals was difficult. Personally I prefer the ring terminals, but for already installed distribution bus terminal bars you have to go with what is already there. All the boats were very new boats.
- - That some European boats have the pin system does not mean that all of them have pin terminals - just that you may see terminals other than ring types. I suspect it is a manufacturer decision based on worker time needed to connect up electrical systems. It is quicker to install pin terminals than ring terminals.
Can you let me know what brands. If called to work on one it would be good to have the pins ahead of time...
You can find the "Europa" style connectors at: Terminal Blocks & Strips - TE
- There are many other supplies, most of them located in other than in North America. It is a big world out there and it is not always dependent on USA standards. It also appears that 24VDC is making a comeback for non-USA destined boats.
- - GordMay maybe can check on how ABYC deals with Europa pin style terminals and distribution blocks.
Could someone with the Greenlee crimpers and a spare piece of 4AWG boat wire do me a quick favor?
If you set the crimpers to 4AWG and crimp down on just the bare wire, does it compress the wire at all or does the wire slide freely within the crimp die? I'm trying to determine if I'm having a crimp size problem or a wire size problem. I am waiting on some thicker walled lug terminals.
Could someone with the Greenlee crimpers and a spare piece of 4AWG boat wire do me a quick favor?
If you set the crimpers to 4AWG and crimp down on just the bare wire, does it compress the wire at all or does the wire slide freely within the crimp die? I'm trying to determine if I'm having a crimp size problem or a wire size problem. I am waiting on some thicker walled lug terminals.
Thanks
AWG4 Pacer tinned marine battery cable slides easily in both of my Greenlee crimpers (the big one and the small one). You can wiggle the wire from side to side easily.
FYI, the bare cable itself measures about 6.4mm in diameter, and the AWG4 lug measures 9.4mm.
If you're having problems getting a tight enough crimp, use the next smallest AWG size (e.g., AWG6).
The posties took their time, but my package from GenuineDealz.com finally came.
In it were some of their 4AWG heavy duty lug terminals.
The wire I have fit nice and snug and I crimped them down with the Greenlee. It took a lot of force, I couldn't squeeze the handles together myself, I had to place one on the floor and press down hard on the other handle to get ti to crimp. I think the crimper is designed for lighter duty lugs.
Anyway, I was hoping the HD lugs wouldn't form a "pinch" at one of the crimp points, but it did:
I got the HD lugs because the thicker wall, but it makes it very hard to crimp.
They don't fall off, but they're no where near as elegant as the crimp in the first post in this thread.
I crimped several 1/0 wires with the HD lugs using my Greenlee crimpers...the smaller crimper tool, with no problems by hand. I agree, that pinch burr is less than steller. I just rotate and recrimp just enough to knock the sharp edge down. Other than the appearance, they are solid crimps!