6vdc Trojan T105 (225ah) Equalization

[rgleason]

Thanks MaineSail and John,

The factory supplied battery caps should remain on during EQ. You don't check the SG with the EQ in progress you stop it, wait a bit and then check it...

Ok. I will add this to my list.

Why were you allowing the batteries to hit 8.7V? Were they really cold? This would be a 17.4V EQ for a 12V battery..

Similar to this line? 2:20 8.7v 9.09a 7.82v 9.1a CC

The 8.7v at 9.09a is the reading at the DC Power supply (CC mode), which seems inaccurate to me, because the Digital Clamp Meter Uni-Trend UT203 always registered lower voltages and had similar amps, for example this time the Clamp Meter registered 7.82v at 9.1a. That is why I had the first & second column for the TekPower TP3010E DC Adjustable Switching Power Supply 30V 10A Digital Display and then the third and fourth column was Digital Clamp Meter readings which I followed because I believe they were more accurate.

I took the boat to the mooring this morning. The batteries measured approximately 12.6v-12.65v which is about 6.3-6.32v for one battery.

Trojan T105 Manual shows 100% SG=1.277 V=6.37

So the batteries must be at about 95%. I suppose I should load test them when I get a chance.

I think I need to get a new charger (thanks for the suggestions) and will try to return the 10a DC power supply and get a 20a one.

Next time I will try to take longer to make sure Absorption is totally complete on both batteries (down to below 1amp at CV 7.35v) before equalizing, and I will set the CV at the DC Power Supply before attaching the leads! I think I will get thicker neg & pos leads as they are quite puny.




Thanks again.

[kmacdonald]

Originally Posted by john61ct

Yes, many owners of such small banks don't care to try for max longevity, just accept replacing more frequently.

For others "doing it right" becomes a hobby in itself, beyond any economic rationale.

Well said!!!!!!!!!!!!! I agree 100%

[rgleason]

ProMariner ProNautic 1210P 10amp #63110 2-bank $171
ProMariner ProNautic 1220p 20amp #63120 3-bank $252

both have 12 Selectable Charging Profiles, Power Factor Correction, Digital Self-Calculating Absorption and Battery Health Re-Conditioning Mode, Service and fault mode LED Indicators, Automatic Temperature Compensation and Built-in Safety

Is "Battery Health Re-Conditioning Mode" the same as "Equalizing"?

I seem to mis-judge amperage required, is it necessary to get the 20 amp for my 225 ah bank? At most in the future, we would expand the emergency battery to 225ah.

If we are at a dock with power, we would tend to be there at least, 15 hours.
15 hrs x 10 amp = 150 x .8 charge efficiency de-rating = 120 amp. This would do 50% of the current battery bank. It would work but 20 amp would be better and would work better with two banks of 225ah. I think it is probably best to get the 20amp

[rgleason]

Is "Battery Health Re-Conditioning Mode" the same as "Equalizing"?
From the manuals it appears ProNauticP Series does have Equalizing for Flooded
- Conditioning VDC 14.8vdc
- Auto Maintain VDC 12.8-13.6 VDC
- and two separate ranges can be programmed.
Also Equalization at 15.5vdc!!

Equalization would be ideal.

During this Auto Conservation Mode
the Standby LED will be on - to view full display, including voltage and current, press any function
button. This will place the unit in a continuing maintenance mode. During extended periods of non-use,
Battery Health Mode will initiate every 21 days ensuring fully conditioned batteries which will be ready to go.
NOTE: Damage can result from improper use of the custom setting. Any damage experienced while using
this setting is the responsibility of the user and not covered by the Professional Mariner warranty. ALWAYS
consult the battery manufacturer if you are unsure of the battery chemistry or appropriate selectio

[Maine Sail]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Is "Battery Health Re-Conditioning Mode" the same as "Equalizing"?
From the manuals it appears ProNauticP Series does have Equalizing for Flooded
- Conditioning VDC 14.8vdc
- Auto Maintain VDC 12.8-13.6 VDC
- and two separate ranges can be programmed.
Also Equalization at 15.5vdc!!

Equalization would be ideal.

There is a MarineHowTo.com article covering the sister charger to these here:


Installing a Marine Battery Charger




.

[a64pilot]

RE 10 or 20amp chargers.
First don’t forget to subtract house loads, if the are say 10 amps then a 20amp charger can only charge at 10amps.

Even for a flooded battery I think high charge rates can be good, reason is enough current will get the electrolyte moving in a convection, and this stirring will help prevent stratification.
Mixing it up every now and again is good.

You don’t need an equalization mode, a good charger is programmable, just program for the higher voltage and terminate it yourself when it’s time.

[john61ct]

30A would be a minimum IMO, maybe 40A, but past that no real benefit for FLA. Double those if you want to switch to AGM in future.

[john61ct]

Do not let any charge source do equalization automatically.

If it can be configured to follow the mfg specs great, but you still choose when to initiate, get loads isolated etc.

[a64pilot]

A big charger running at half capacity doesn’t get nearly as hot as a smaller one that is maxed out, and heat is the enemy of electronics.
Just another opinion, not trying to argue, but I do believe in big chargers

[rgleason]

More things to consider here. the Charger should be at least 20a, possibly 30a. I only have a 30a marine power cord anyway, does it make any sense to go to 40a? My house loads at the dock might be 5.2 amps for Ozifridge and maybe 2amps for two reading lights max. but the evaporator tank goes for 12 hours without starting the danfoss compressor.

Mainsail, what an excellent article. I've known about it, but have not done anything yet, I need to install fuses within 7" of the battery. On this small boat find a location for the charger will not be easy. Port & Starboard lockers are not really appropriate. Port is batteries and starboard is full to brim. Proper ventilation and weather protection are the issues. Size 8.5" w x 10.25" h x 3.5" deep. Behind to galley stove could work, as we don't use the stove much, but it does not sound right. Our lockers are pretty full and mounting it exposed on the bulkhead in the cabin just forward of the batteries and in the way of the refrig access does not really appeal, but the cables would be short. I am going to have to look at the boat again.

Is there an easy way to bring this charger home with the batteries for winter charging/equalizing?

I can upgrade the 10a variable DC power supply I purchased to 1-30v and 30amps for $130 more. Does it make any sense to do that if I get a good ProNauticP or Sterling Power charger 20a or 30a?


John, the manual says that equalization is started by pressing two buttons at once and it will go for 240 minutes. I did not find out if the 15.5v can be changed in settings.

[rgleason]

Last night, I realized that 30 amps at 120vac is definitely not the same as 30amps at 12vdc! I had wondered why the wires were so small on the 10a DC Power Source.

V=IR V/I = R

120v/30amp = 4 ohms resistance
12v/30 amp = .4 ohms resistance (decimal point moves over)
It is 1/10th the resistance, so the wire can be smaller.

So an adjustable (say 12vdc) DC Power Source at 30amps current is actually moving 1/10th of the electrons that 120vac at 30amps would move. I have to keep that in mind when the batteries are in absorption mode, it just takes time to recharge. Also this is the reason to get a 30 amp Adjustable DC Power Source.

[john61ct]

Yes, trying to refrain from slapping my forehead!

8-)

For mains power watts is more intuitive, and also useful when converting from one DC voltage to another, since watts are always watts no matter the voltage.

But amps and AH (amp hours) while sticking to 12V is the convention, and critical for sizing wire gauges, connectors fuses etc.

You soon get used to mentally switching back and forth.

[rgleason]

When I saw in the specs that a 30 amp charger needed something like a 10amp breaker it didn't sound right, but that's for the 120vac side. So I need to find a place for a 120vac breaker too, heck all I have is two 120vac receptacles, no ac panel, just a single breaker and a polarity gizmo from 1981.

I'm going to take john and a64pilot's advice about getting a higher amp charger, once I figure out to mount it somewhere so the cabin does not look like an engine room.

I've exchanged the 10amp adjustible dc power source for a 30amp version.

I am hoping that can be my home winter charger / equalizer when combined with a 120vac timer.

I'm hoping that with the right equipment, this will become easier.

It certainly will cost the equivalent of more than new batteries for the clamping meter, specific gravity hydrometer, adjustable DC power source 30amps, and good boat charger, but then I might be able to keep the batteries for more than 4-6 years.

For the charger it should be 30amp or 40amp. I am considering making my "emergency" 12v battery another (2) T105, which would put a bank in port and starboard lockers, then getting a small starting battery for an emergency.

I could combine bank1 and 2 and get some advantages. 10% of 450ah is 45 amps, so I'd need the 40amp charger.

Is this overkill for my 32' sailboat? Also hope to fit 80 watts of solar some say.
Right now we just have 14 watts.

[a64pilot]

450 AH is a pretty big bank on a 32er, but really it depends on your electrical usage more than Boat size, and it depends on if you have a generator available also, in my opinion.
I like having two days worth of battery capacity myself, so by day three if there still is no sun, I’m cranking something.
If I had a 450 AH bank I’d want at least 500W Solar, of course I’m greedy.

[john61ct]

450AH, 500W solar is only enough for great weather and shallow cycling, I'd want double that and not be greedy.

Unless as you say a genny's available for running an hour or two on cloudy mornings.

OP, you can get by with just a manual PS no automatic charger if you don't mind being the human regulator each cycle.