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Old 28-11-2008, 08:48   #16
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defjef, using your example of the phone charger, I'll make a point. On one end a large, flimsy, ugly plug. On the other end a tiny, efficient, almost unnoticeable plug. Both, apparently, are capable of carrying the neccessary load. The point is: theres more than one way to skin a cat. DIN plugs are yesterdays (or the day before) technology and it wasn't even good then. We use them because thats what they feed us. I applaud Mr Gord's pioneering spirit and demand for something better.

Thanks for the links Gord. Those are very sturdy looking plugs. I hadn't really considered locking plugs so thats a bonus.

No takers on the generator slant plug querry? I know alot of you have the same outlet on your genny. Has anyone ever plugged anything in there?

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Old 28-11-2008, 08:58   #17
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Those look like the type of plugs used for portable or window mount aircons

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Old 28-11-2008, 09:28   #18
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On many of the DIN (Cig Lighter) plug devices (phone chargers especially), the regulation electronics are built into the plug so you can't just replace it with something else. For these devices you will definitely need an adaptor, if you want to use a non-DIN socket.

For my semi-permantly installed 12V devices, such as my fans, we use a small two-pin plug/sockets that look something like this:

I'm not completely happy with the pin design, but they are probably better than the DIN plugs, and are good for the current that the fan uses.

For the rest of the 12V sockets I use DIN, because I would rather put up with the DIN socket than have to change out all the plugs and/or use adaptors. As I see it, an adaptor, DIN socket to non-standard plug, doesn't really help much. You still have the DIN, plus a second set of connections.

There are different classes of 12V loads you might see using DIN connectors. Most of them will be low-current, perhaps 0.1A or so -- phone chargers, handheld GPS, etc. Then there are laptop computers, handheld vacuums, spotlights, etc, which will draw approx 5-10A from a 12V socket. You need a fairly high-current connection for these.

I really wish that the standard 12V plug/socket was something other than DIN, but until this changes I've decided to stick with DIN for anything that isn't screwed down.
Paul Elliott, S/V VALIS - Pacific Seacraft 44 #16 - Friday Harbor, WA
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Old 28-11-2008, 11:27   #19
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You could use a commercial type 120v receptacle. A normal 120v plug wont fit so no confusion. Not sure if cheap plugs for your apllicances are avail though.
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Old 30-11-2008, 18:44   #20
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i am getting ready to install a few plugs on some equipment, i will be using the cord that came with everything with including the wall wart. i will be installing these things using hard wired plugs, the monitor and stuff will be a perminate install with the ability to be removed and reconnected to the wall wart. i will be using the plugs they sell for rc car battery packs they can handle lots of amps.

my idea is run fused wire to location needed, install plug. then cut stock cable install plug on both ends of cut, incase i need to run on 110 just unplug from boat and plug back into wall wart. this will not be meant for constant plugging and unplugging just a nice option. also it saves me from having to search out all the proper 12 plugs for each item ( laptop, monitor, digi tv converter all run on 12 volts )
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Old 01-12-2008, 03:13   #21
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Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
You could use a commercial type 120v receptacle. A normal 120v plug wont fit so no confusion...
What's the difference between a "commercial type" 120v receptacle, and a "normal" 120v plug?

Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"

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