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Old 17-09-2013, 04:59   #16
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Guys anyone can give me some advise here?


See the black tube that connects the red petrol container to the engine. The tender is launched in such a way that the red container slides forward and backward. This is because the the port and starboard ropes share the same winch. So the dinghy is lowered front first and then the back. The red container causes a lot of friction with the rest of the stuff insIde the dingy. In the long run I am afraid the black priming tube will burn itself out at some point. Anyone knows how to tuck the black tube in such a way it's safe and neat?

Btw here's seem photos for some of the forum mere who asked me about my floatations device for stern end.
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Old 17-09-2013, 05:34   #17
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Re: Maintenance Tips For Lagoon 400 S2

probably not enough chain out mate.
1/check the water depth and allow to put out the depth x 5. Also check how your depth sensor is set up, is it water under the keep or actual depth. the best way is to measure it accurately with a tape measure. Drop a line over the edge of your boat now with a weight on the end. See when it hits the bottom, mark the rope, pull it up and measure the depth, now check on your instruments the depth shown. Are they the same or do you need to adjust the instrument.
2/ after you let out 25m of chain for 5 m of water, attach the bridle at the 25m mark. You should put some marks along the chain starting at 20m, every 5 m. Make up a system, like, one cable tie at 20m, 2 at 25m, 3 at 30, etc, or use colored ones or you can buy neat little plasic chain markers from the chandlery, or an electric chain counter. 5;1 scope is minimal, if it was blowing 20+ knots I would use 7:1, ie 7 x depth (5) = 35m chain.
3/ after you attach the bridle let out approximately 10-15 more meters of chain, this should take the weight off the chain and transfer it to the bridle, as well as creating extra weight at the bridle, which helps hold the chain lower in the water, better holding. Normally you would allow for the freeboard (height from water to anchor roller) in the scope calculations, however as the height is approximately 1m, and the bridle approximately 6m forward, you don't really need to worry about that.
4/ reverse with both engines at 2200 rpm. when the chain is tight place a waypoing on your plotter and watch to see that you dont drag off the waypoint. leave the engines reving for 1 or 2 minutes to make sure you are holding fast. If it drags you may need to pull it up and repeat the process, or it may set after a few meters.
5/cut the engines and put up your anchor ball day shape or anchor light at night, set anchor alarms if you haven't already. Go for a swim if its warm and shallow enough and take a look at the anchor, make sure it is set well and buried in the sand.
I usually set my anchor alarm as I drop the anchor. I also usually place a waypoint on the plotter as I drop the anchor as a reference point.
If there is no wind you may need to reverse slowly as you lower the anchor to try lay the chain in a neat line on the seabed. Its no good if its piled on top of the anchor.
So remember, check your instrument so you know when you read 5m deep, is it 5m under my keel, or 5m from my waterline. I prefer it set to the waterline, but some people prefer under the keel. You can also set a shallow water alarm for water under 2m or so.
So yes, very important , at least 5:1 scope and 7:1 if its windy, the more the better for good holding, but sometimes busy anchorages or small bays don't allow for more than 5:1. Also very important to take the load of the chain from the windlass by letting out at least 10-15 m after you clip on the bridle.
I dont know how you attach the bridle to the chain, a shackle or clip. We use one like this which works OK
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...Hqq7FJMBma1rkH
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Old 17-09-2013, 05:39   #18
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Re: Maintenance Tips For Lagoon 400 S2

for the dinghy, its best to secure the tank in place with a line. Just tie one around the tank and secure it back to the dinghy transom. Also its best to try lower it more level. You may have to go halfway on the bow, cleat it off, go halfway on the stern, cleat it and repeat till its in the water. If you tilt it too much the oil flows out of the engine reservoir and you will notice its smokey when you start it. Also fuel can spill from the fuel tank cap breather.
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Old 18-09-2013, 00:29   #19
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Thanks for those wonderful insight and advise.


Can another Lagoon 400 owner in this forums also help by giving me advise on preventive maintainence?
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Old 18-09-2013, 03:14   #20
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"I anchored in 5 meters of water" Another question that needs to be asked is where was the the tide at this point.
I dont know what your Tide range is where you are but you need to allow for max depth during your anchor period
when calculating amount of chain to put out.
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Old 18-09-2013, 08:01   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulinOz View Post
"I anchored in 5 meters of water" Another question that needs to be asked is where was the the tide at this point.
I dont know what your Tide range is where you are but you need to allow for max depth during your anchor period
when calculating amount of chain to put out.
The tide was low at this point. And once again if anyone has tips and a list of things they do to regularly maintain their boat pls SMS me.
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Old 18-09-2013, 08:09   #22
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Re: Maintenance Tips For Lagoon 400 S2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erdnase View Post
Thanks for those wonderful insight and advise.


Can another Lagoon 400 owner in this forums also help by giving me advise on preventive maintainence?
Just kind of stumbled into this thread and I'm not trying to be unhelpful but I think you should focus more on the general sailing thing than any particulars with your vessel.

Anchoring, sail management, fiberglass, navigation, engine maintenance, and rigging are largely the same on all modern sailing vessels.

- former catamaran charter captain
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Old 18-09-2013, 10:07   #23
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Re: Maintenance Tips For Lagoon 400 S2

good point Paul, I forgot to mention to allow for high tide when calculating anchor chain. If it was low tide and Singapore has approximately 2.5m tides. 20 m was definately not enough. You need to add the tide (2.5m) to when you anchored in 5m at low tide and multiply x 5. So minimum chain should be 37.5m (7.5 x 5 )
Your boat floated off at high tide as the scope neared 2:1...
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Old 18-09-2013, 19:01   #24
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Originally Posted by rebel heart View Post

Just kind of stumbled into this thread and I'm not trying to be unhelpful but I think you should focus more on the general sailing thing than any particulars with your vessel.

Anchoring, sail management, fiberglass, navigation, engine maintenance, and rigging are largely the same on all modern sailing vessels.

- former catamaran charter captain
Sure boss...yawns...
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Old 19-09-2013, 04:20   #25
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Anyone has any idea how long a pump such as this would last ?if used on a day to day basis.
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