450: L450 Main sail halyard replacement

[Millerslocal]

We need to replace the main halyard on our L450. The Lagoon manual indicates length (67m) and diameter (12mm) required, but that's about it.

Am I correct in assuming I need a dyneema/spectra core with a polyester cover? Any recommendations?

Would something like this be fine?
Superbraid - Leisure Marine - Applications

Up until I became a boat owner just over a year ago it was all just rope to me!

[davedindubai]

I replaced mine with a 12mm cruising dyneema. It's much more economical than spectra which you don't need to waste money on.

It might be worth getting the top 1m dipped or whipped for chafe protection tho as this is where you get the wear.

Me too, it still is all just rope if i'm honest!

[Bean Counter]

Originally Posted by Millerslocal

We need to replace the main halyard on our L450. The Lagoon manual indicates length (67m) and diameter (12mm) required, but that's about it.

Am I correct in assuming I need a dyneema/spectra core with a polyester cover? Any recommendations?

Would something like this be fine?
Superbraid - Leisure Marine - Applications

Up until I became a boat owner just over a year ago it was all just rope to me!

I note in the advert for Superbraid that its application does not include halyards.


Halyards need to be strong, low stretch , UV resistant, have good grip in a clutch, see the site here for a good summary of line types and uses, scroll down the page for some useful tables


Sailboat Line & Running Rigging Selection Guide | APS

[Bean Counter]

Regarding chafe on the main halyard. If your topping lift is on the starboard side, make sure you hoist the mainsail so the main halyard stays on the port side (ie hoist the sail to the port side of the topping lift), chafe can come from the main halyard rubbing on the topping lift if they are crossed. You can of course swap the halyard end for end and whip the chafed sections that take no load when hoisted, which I have done on our 7 year old dyneema main halyard. When it finally gets too short it will be a good spare for one of the shorter halyards or topping lift.

[davedindubai]

Also, avoid black rope. Our boat came with a black main halyard which left black dust all over our clean white helm. This was my main reason to change it for a nice white / red cruising dyneema.

[meirriba]

Originally Posted by Millerslocal

We need to replace the main halyard on our L450. The Lagoon manual indicates length (67m) and diameter (12mm) required, but that's about it.

Am I correct in assuming I need a dyneema/spectra core with a polyester cover? Any recommendations?

Would something like this be fine?
Superbraid - Leisure Marine - Applications

Up until I became a boat owner just over a year ago it was all just rope to me!

I believe that Lagoon refers to 12mm polyester. So, 10mm Dyneema/Spectra will be strong enough to do the job, and will weigh much less. However, if you go this way, you need to check the clutch that handles the rope for working properly with this size.
If you want to save money, you can use polyester braid on braid rope. We sail with such Marlowbraid line successfully for several years now.

[Tornadosailing]

I used New England VPC for my new halyard. Works great and is holding up well. The cover is a little slick, and my winch jaws a little worn. It slips in the tailer, but I also found that other lines slip in that winch as well. I have new jaws awaiting installation, and hopefully no more slip.

Almost forgot, my clutch was worn as well, and wouldn't hold the VPC. Got a new Lewmar Domino clutch. It's amazing.

[boom23]

Something else that helps with chafing...

Lock the mainsail halyard block so that it does not rotate.

Even though I would make sure the mainsail halyard was on the correct side of the topping lift, I had a lot of mainsail halyard chafing near the top of the mast. I had none after I locked the halyard block to not rotate.

Here is a pic of the block I am referring to:

[davedindubai]

Originally Posted by boom23

Something else that helps with chafing...

Lock the mainsail halyard block so that it does not rotate.

Even though I would make sure the mainsail halyard was on the correct side of the topping lift, I had a lot of mainsail halyard chafing near the top of the mast. I had none after I locked the halyard block to not rotate.

Here is a pic of the block I am referring to:

This just made me die... I remember the day when someone told me about the grub screw on that bock to release the swivel. We'd completed around 7,000nm by this time!

I find I get less twists at the top of the halyard with the swivel 'open' and therefore less chafe but I do pull the main up by hand at the base of the mast now which reduces the twist even further.

[gjorgensen]

Originally Posted by Tornadosailing

I used New England VPC for my new halyard. Works great and is holding up well. The cover is a little slick, and my winch jaws a little worn. It slips in the tailer, but I also found that other lines slip in that winch as well. I have new jaws awaiting installation, and hopefully no more slip.

VPC is a good line - we used it for a few applications on our race boat - but be wary of using it for a halyard, especially in the tropics. It's a blended Vectran core, and Vectran burns out relatively quickly sunlight. The cover adds some protection, but it's not perfect. Here in San Diego about 5 years was all you could expect from a Vectran cored line (poly cover) before it fell apart. Dyneema/Spectra holds up a lot better to UV.

[Mike Banks]

Such an obvious thing to those conversant with doing it--which most of us are not. Thanks a lot--you have probably saved a lot of chafed halyards!!

Mike.

[arsenelupiga]

Originally Posted by davedindubai

This just made me die... I remember the day when someone told me about the grub screw on that bock to release the swivel. We'd completed around 7,000nm by this time!

I find I get less twists at the top of the halyard with the swivel 'open' and therefore less chafe but I do pull the main up by hand at the base of the mast now which reduces the twist even further.

i have gone twist-no twist way. Locked the swivel and added fat soft shackle between swivel and sail ring that turns up to 1/2 of turn if needed to compensate. No chafe, no twist, no problems.

[davedindubai]

Originally Posted by arsenelupiga

i have gone twist-no twist way. Locked the swivel and added fat soft shackle between swivel and sail ring that turns up to 1/2 of turn if needed to compensate. No chafe, no twist, no problems.

That's a very good idea! Consider it copied.
There I was trying to give back some of what I have learned and I end up learning even more in the process. Got to love CF.

[meirriba]

Originally Posted by arsenelupiga

i have gone twist-no twist way. Locked the swivel and added fat soft shackle between swivel and sail ring that turns up to 1/2 of turn if needed to compensate. No chafe, no twist, no problems.

I have started with the swivel free to turn -> two chafed halyards in 3 years. Locked the swivel -> 4 years, halyard still fine.

[boom23]

Originally Posted by meirriba

I have started with the swivel free to turn -> two chafed halyards in 3 years. Locked the swivel -> 4 years, halyard still fine.

That was my experience also. But, your mileage might very...