450: First Time out of the Water 500 hours

[Krabimike]

Hello, our first time out of the water.
I have SD 60 outdrives the oil on the port side is getting just a little gray / white shade to it at about 100 hours after the oil change. I went ahead and changed the oil. And now 25 hours later i am out on the hard.
I have looked on utube for any seal changing videos but not much there. My yanmar dealers say piese of cake.. but i was wondering if any one has advice or video of the process?
The other question is they have about 500 hours on them. Should i change the STB side while out? My thinking is if it aint broke dont mess with it.. what say you?
Any other thoughts of what i might be missing on my first haul out would be welcome!

We are curious as to how many gallons you have used per coat on the bottom?
The cost to have the bottom prept and painted labor not material.
The cost to have the hauls buffed and polished?

I must also pay homage to Paul & Steve and many others for all the help and advice over the past year!
Thanks

[PaulinOz]

20 liters of AF will do a 450.

[Bean Counter]

Originally Posted by PaulinOz

20 liters of AF will do a 450.

For two coats and three on leading edges, rudders and keels using a roller. (5 US gallons). Wetted surface area is 624 sq ft (58m2). Remember sail drives should be coated with paint specific for aluminum.

[Bean Counter]

If not already done so it is easier to change the oil and gear oil on your dinghy outboard on the hard.

Draining the gear oil on the saildrives on the hard will leave minimal residue compared to pump method.

Lower oil seals (on SD 50) are easy to do, once you get the prop off. I imagine much the same for SD60, but don't know for sure.

The fairings around the sail drives are a pain to get off, if you are going to inspect the diaphragms from below. There may be a lot of marine growth in the cavity.

We got a quote in the USA:

Sand and prep 11 hrs at $65 per hour
Paint 6 hrs at $65 per hour.

Excludes materials and haul out/pressure wash etc.

We did it ourselves - took two of us 2.5 days to sand and paint, including drives and props, servicing saildrives, and outboard, replace anodes and removing and refitting fairings to inspect diaphragms.

[Krabimike]

Originally Posted by PaulinOz

20 liters of AF will do a 450.

Thanks Paul!

[Krabimike]

Originally Posted by Bean Counter

If not already done so it is easier to change the oil and gear oil on your dinghy outboard on the hard.

Draining the gear oil on the saildrives on the hard will leave minimal residue compared to pump method.

Lower oil seals (on SD 50) are easy to do, once you get the prop off. I imagine much the same for SD60, but don't know for sure.

The fairings around the sail drives are a pain to get off, if you are going to inspect the diaphragms from below. There may be a lot of marine growth in the cavity.

We got a quote in the USA:

Sand and prep 11 hrs at $65 per hour
Paint 6 hrs at $65 per hour.

Excludes materials and haul out/pressure wash etc.

We did it ourselves - took two of us 2.5 days to sand and paint, including drives and props, servicing saildrives, and outboard, replace anodes and removing and refitting fairings to inspect diaphragms.

I never even considered taking off the fairings.. guess i better look into that and give it some thought. How are they held inplace?

Thanks for the quantities and numbers. The outboard is already on the list! Krabi boat lagoon has a nice engineering shop here, they are the ones that built my frame and helped install the solar/ controllers along with outboard mount, BBQ rack, etc.
I am going to attempt to change the seal my self but if i get over my head they can assit.
Cheers

[Krabimike]

Originally Posted by Krabimike

I never even considered taking off the fairings.. guess i better look into that and give it some thought. How are they held inplace?

Thanks for the quantities and numbers. The outboard is already on the list! Krabi boat lagoon has a nice engineering shop here, they are the ones that built my frame and helped install the solar/ controllers along with outboard mount, BBQ rack, etc.
I am going to attempt to change the seal my self but if i get over my head they can assit.
Cheers

I am assuming my props are also aluminum?

[feebs]

Propspeed is one option for the props

[Bean Counter]

Originally Posted by feebs

Propspeed is one option for the props

2 years ago we had bare bronze on our flexofold props and barnacles and oysters had attached themselves to the hub and inner blades. LAst year we used a zinc primer with trilux 33. The trilux lasted about 6 months before it wore off, the primer another couple of months but marine growth was minimal at end of the year.

This year we are trialing PropGlide, a lower priced product similar to PropSpeed (ie. slippery surface as opposed to an anti-foul) it will be interesting to see results over the year.

Re the fairings, your SD 60 manual should specify diaphragm inspection times (The SD 50 is annually). On our 2011 L450 the fibreglass fairings are glued on with what seemed to be 3M 5200. Had to use a fine edge prybar / and a sealant softening product called DeBond. It was tedious work. Once the fairing is off it is quicker to grind the sealant off. I have used 4200 to glue back on, hopefully this will hold and be easier to get off next time. In the cavity the marine growth was extensive with large oysters and barnacles attached to the upper leg and diaphragm. I don't think our fairings had been removed since new. The diaphragms were fine, once I could get a look at them. I painted inside the cavity and upper drive leg with Primocom & Trilux 33. This will also be interesting to see as the year progresses.

[Ivansgarage]

Sail drive seals USE anti seize on those bolts while that drive is new.
Use a socket extension bar to drive new seal in place, easy, easy, on the
edges of seal, only. Walk around the edges of seal with light taps.
A little marine grease on those o-rings when pushing that lower end
back in, will stop from pinching o-rings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1FFr8ZQtdo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKufT6fn1Zw

[Emerald Sea]

This may seem completely nuts to some, but I'll admit I'm tenderly attached my boat and lovingly look after all her needs! I often do a snorkel or a dive around the hulls and when I do I always allow my exhaust bubbles to rise into the cavity between the fairing and the boot seal. My thinking is that this entrapped air prevents or reduces the build up of marine growth in this area I can't get or see when in the water. It needs to be done after a passage but the air remains when at anchor.

I too have painstakingly removed both fairings and inspected the seals each time she's out of the water and replace with a more manageable Sikaflex glue (forget the type).

Mike, I'd also recommend replacing each shaft seal while you have it out of the water. And it really is a rather easy job to do. Just remember or take photos of the sequence of the disassembly and keep everything very clean.

And Mike, inspect for any coating damage on your sail drive bodies. If you have any coating damage exposing the aluminum body, this must be repaired (marine epoxy barrier and then the anti-foul).

[Library70]

Mike, don't forget to check the prop shafts for wear at the contact point of the seals. Unfortunately, it is a common problem with Yanmar sail drives. New seals won't last long on a grooved shaft. FYI, my sd50's have no factory coating left on them. When the bottom paint wears off they are completely bare aluminium, been that way for years with no corrosion.

[Bean Counter]

Originally Posted by Library70

Mike, don't forget to check the prop shafts for wear at the contact point of the seals. Unfortunately, it is a common problem with Yanmar sail drives. New seals won't last long on a grooved shaft. FYI, my sd50's have no factory coating left on them. When the bottom paint wears off they are completely bare aluminium, been that way for years with no corrosion.

What anti-foul paint do you apply direct to bare aluminium?

[Library70]

Any nonmetalic bottom paint works fine. We never sand the drives, just scrub them with soapy water.

[GB32]

Hi Mike.
I'm all for doing your own maintenance and learning how things work - especially for the times you have a problem to resolve.

But - for completeness:-
I assume Krabi is like Phuket (though it is a different administration district). You should ensure you have 'permission' from Immigration to work on your own boat.
There have been arrests of people doing maintenance having arrived on a tourist visa - most recently at Ao Po.
There are also anecdotal cases of arrests of people who hold residents visa's -doing oil changes on mopeds and painting fences on the properties they live in.

The logic is that you need a work visa or you should employ nationals to do the work. As even a work visa is specific to the work you do in your employment you can never do general maintenance.

My understanding is that if you arrived on your non-Thai foreign registered boat and are signed on as Master or Crew then you are OK.
I also know that if you fly in and get a tourist visa on arrival, you can go to the Phuket Immigration office (not sure about Krabi), and explain, they will attach a 'paper' to your Passport and you are also OK - and at no charge.

I think the advice here is to ask experienced expats or visit Krabi Immigration and get it from the horses mouth. Winging it - if doing extensive and visible work - is probably not a good plan. Some may see it as their right to do the work you are doing yourself