Want To Buy: 15-30hp diesel engine for 27ft sailboat

[ArmyDaveNY]

I second the idea that 30 HP will likely be too much HP. You may have trouble slowing down while in gear. I have seen several where they had to constantly shift from neutral to idle because they had too much HP.


All of my 27 foot boats (Dufours) have 10 HP Volvos. Yes, a few extra HP would be nice for the tidal current but I move just fine with the old Volvo MD6A. To give you an idea of the set up, all three are around 6,000 lbs displacement. Two of the engines and boats are 1973 and one is 1976. I'd be surprised if I was actually getting the full 10 HP on two of the boats. You'd probably be fine with something around 15 HP assuming it is a good match for your propeller.


Whatever you choose, I wish you luck with your new (to you) engine.

[Scout 30]

I'd check Ebay.

[chowdan]

Thanks everyone for all the constructive comments.

Yes i can cut a hole in the aft hatch to mount an OB. Sure it will work, clean up the transom. I dont like carrying petrol in my boat. Gas is not a marine friendly fuel. I've been aboard boats that have had petrol(A4's), with a blower, that has ignited the fumes. Sure the chance of it happening is nearly 0, especially with an outboard, however the chance is NOT something i want to deal with. Personal preference.

I may not be a diesel mechanic, and yes, i may not know AS much as i should, but I do have enough knowledge on how to do a rebuild. I have friends who are mechanics aboard diesel trains who can help out if I need it as well, so im not paying a pro shop to rebuild an engine for me. I dont believe in people paying for services when they can learn it themselves and do it themselves.

Sure it may smell running diesel, especially downwind or no wind, but thats a cost i can live with.

My boat already is setup to run diesel. The engine i have onboard now is a diesel, Perkins M20, that is completely seized. I want to replace the engine and the gearbox with another one, leaving the propshaft in place.

This is a subject similar to the Butyl tape vrs 3M 5200 or similar products, or Android vrs IOS, or Mac vrs Windows. Its completely owner based personal preference on what is better.

Yes I want to replace the standing rigging, yes I am replacing chainplates(which actually costed me less than $300). For rigging i'm looking at close to $500, so those two jobs are going to be less than a grand(amazing what DIY can do for you).

I got the B27 for $3k(asking $4.5k), yes it needs some work, but so far, I'm in $300, and when rigging gets done in summer/next winter, ill be in a total of $800.

Yes I may spend an extra $1500 on a diesel to replace my current one, and if it needs a top end rebuild, I will either buy it for cheaper to account for rebuild costs, or will not buy it.

I'm quite disappoint how some of the users here are trashing diesel inboards considering this is the CLASSIFIED section, NOT the general or mechanic's section. I AM NOT ASKING FOR WHAT IS BETTER

I dont mean to be rude, nor do i mean to piss anyone off, its just quite irritating having some members talk trash about diesels due to their experience with them and put the OB idea on a golden pillar, on a thread that is not ****ing asking for opinions, rather its asking for members who are SELLING their engine.

Again, i dont mean to be rude or to upset anyone. I figured I'd post a thread in this section, looking for owners who are willing to sell their used engine for a decent price, and I dont expect to find a good one that suites my boat in the next day or two or even a couple of months. I continue to plan on using the outboard on the boat until i find a right fit.

[Scout 30]

Sailboat Marine Diesel Vetus M205 M502 11 HP 3600 RPM ZF Hurth HW 50 2 8 1 | eBay

Yanmar SB12G Marine Diesel Engine | eBay

Yanmar 2GM20F Diesel Engine | eBay

Yanmar YSM12 | eBay

[jimbunyard]

Have you learned something new about the condition of your existing engine? 1000.00 to 1500.00 should go a long way toward repairing what you have unless it is completely hopeless. Plus when you change engines there are a lot of ancillary items that may need to also be changed. At the very least, if the engine you have is beyond repair, as suggested, try looking at local storage yards, but try and stay within the model range you have to avoid complications, either a Perkins 103-06 or 07, or a Volvo MD2020 or 2010.


From previous posts, it seems you have time, so keep your eyes peeled on Ebay and craigslist, look every day. As an example, I paid 400.00 bobtail on Ebay for the MD2020 I have in my boat, it's got 8 years on it now, the only things I've changed are the oil, the exhaust elbow and the transmission drive plate. Likewise, just cruising craigslist I came upon the engine I have now for a spare, runs perfect, came with a good S120 saildrive, for 500.00. Deals are out there, especially if you have time to look.

[roverhi]

Originally Posted by roverhi

For a 27' boat would be looking for 5-15 hp. 30hpmwouldmbe redo blouse and even 20hp would be overpowering the boat.

Don't you just love autocorrect.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

You cant get a new OB for $1000.
-To control the speed on an OB you will be running back and forth and leaning over the back. And of course the OB will change speed from vibration often too.
-To control the shift you will be running back and forth and leaning over the back.
-Meanwhile you will be tripping over the fuel tank and hose in your cockpit.
-When you sail you will... you guessed it... running to the back and trying to lean over and raise the OB bracket.,... and tilt the motor.
-When you want to motor you will be... you guessed it....running to the back and trying to lean over and lower the OB bracket and untilt the motor as well.
-Yes, then you will be banging your elbow on the stern pulpit trying to start the OB.
-Then when you get in some chop, the outboard will be cycling in and out of the water, running wild with the prop in the air at time.
You can solve all of the above (except the running in the air issue) by spending thousands of $ on a fancy OB with power tilt, shift cabling and throttle cabling setup.


What's not to love?

It's pretty obvious you haven't had an outboard on a sailboat lately.

The new outboards do not change speeds after being set. I sometimes motor back the 20 miles across the bay here in the am with my 5 hp outboard on autopilot while reading and never touch the outboard or the tiller.

The 4 stroke outboards of today can run an hour on their inboard tank at max rpm so there is no fuel tank to trip over. For the purposes on a sailboat much longer. I do have a 3 gallon tank in the aft lazarette though, and the hose comes up through the vent.

An outboard on a Bristol 27 with a guy on a budget is almost the perfect solution. Also, many new Bristol 27's came with an outboard.

Also, docking it much easier.

I can move my boat in almost any direction when docking

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by barnakiel

Thomm,

Can you PLS share some speed data as well as tell us what you see now as the biggest drawback (if any) as well as the biggest gain?

I think all owners of any older sub 30 ft submarine may and will be at this point one day. Our own boat is 27 and displaces 3t (light, 3.5t if you chuck in all the diesel related junk - engine, tranny, shaft, prop, batts, cables and hoses and the tank and the diesel ...)

I am at times looking at Tohatsu 6 XXL as our option should our 40 y.o. Volvo Penta have any major breakdown (touch wood).

Regards,
b.

The speed is anywhere from 3 knots against a strong wind and tide to near 6 in favorable conditions. It's usually around 4.5 at 1/2 to 2/3rds throttle. The Bukh 10 diesel would push it at 1 knot into heavy wind and sea with the flat prop that was on the boat when I bought it.. also it would hit the rudder from time to time as you can see

I do not run my outboard at max rpm because it has the standard prop and does no good at that rpm.

Boat speed is up though when sailing with the loss of the 352lb diesel.

I used to race a guy that had an Alberg 30. We would be same speed downwind, but upwind the race was over I'm thinking due to my new main and lighter boat...................and maybe some racing experience.

Biggest drawback. Gas. Also, as Mr. C pointed out it can be a PITA but it helps to keep you fit

Gain. Price, Ease of maintenance, docking, plus very good fuel economy.

With the bracket all the way down (picture on the left) the power head is basically at the height the diesel was.

I was hoping to help this new sailor with his first boat. My boat is my 12th. But I understand learning on your own

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by thomm225

It's pretty obvious you haven't had an outboard on a sailboat lately.

The new outboards do not change speeds after being set. I sometimes motor back the 20 miles across the bay here in the am with my 5 hp outboard on autopilot while reading and never touch the outboard or the tiller.

The 4 stroke outboards of today can run an hour on their inboard tank at max rpm so there is no fuel tank to trip over. For the purposes on a sailboat much longer. I do have a 3 gallon tank in the aft lazarette though, and the hose comes up through the vent.

An outboard on a Bristol 27 with a guy on a budget is almost the perfect solution. Also, many new Bristol 27's came with an outboard.

Also, docking it much easier.

I can move my boat in almost any direction when docking

Outboards are cool, but new or old, when the prop comes out of the water, it's not good. If you dont have it rigged with remote "everything" controls, it's not convenient. It's not a matter of opinion, or new, or old. It's just what it is. I'm not anti outboard, but it's apples and oranges. For the $, they will get you on the water in a smaller boat.


Yes, it's at the height of the inboard . but it's on the end of the teeter totter!

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by thomm225

The speed is anywhere from 3 knots against a strong wind and tide to near 6 in favorable conditions. It's usually around 4.5 at 1/2 to 2/3rds throttle. The Bukh 10 diesel would push it at 1 knot into heavy wind and sea with the flat prop that was on the boat when I bought it.. also it would hit the rudder from time to time as you can see

I do not run my outboard at max rpm because it has the standard prop and does no good at that rpm.

Boat speed is up though when sailing with the loss of the 352lb diesel.

I used to race a guy that had an Alberg 30. We would be same speed downwind, but upwind the race was over I'm thinking due to my new main and lighter boat...................and maybe some racing experience.

Biggest drawback. Gas. Also, as Mr. C pointed out it can be a PITA but it helps to keep you fit

Gain. Price, Ease of maintenance, docking, plus very good fuel economy.

With the bracket all the way down (picture on the left) the power head is basically at the height the diesel was.

Quite interesting!

I do apologize for my previous post, however I'm not completely against outboards, I'm mainly against just the added crap to the transom.

On a side note, do you burn through the head tank per hour or faster?

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Outboards are cool, but new or old, when the prop comes out of the water, it's not good. If you dont have it rigged with remote "everything" controls, it's not convenient. It's not a matter of opinion, or new, or old. It's just what it is. I'm not anti outboard, but it's apples and oranges. For the $, they will get you on the water in a smaller boat.


Yes, it's at the height of the inboard . but it's on the end of the teeter totter!

The newer ones also have overrev governors. Since my last 4 sailboats did not have engines maybe it's a bit easier for me than for other sailors plus I raced.....a lot

One of the most interesting experiences though was after a heavy wind weekend. The wind suddenly dropped but the waves were still large.

So I was motor sailing across the bay back home and the boat was rolling so much that the engine would come out of the water. I adjusted my angle of sail and it was all good.

Sailing is very slow paced it's nice to have things to workout from time to time.

I will still take a 2016 5hp 4 stroke outboard for $1500 on a Bristol 27 over a backyard rebuild of an old diesel any day of the week.

Plus, on a sailboat the engine should be mainly for entering and exiting the marina. I have to work so I do sometimes use my outboard to get back home as in keeping the boat on a certain high pointing tack or simply motoring home

but when I start to cruise, different story........

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by chowdan

Quite interesting!

I do apologize for my previous post, however I'm not completely against outboards, I'm mainly against just the added crap to the transom.

On a side note, do you burn through the head tank per hour or faster?

If you are talking inboard tank, it will last over an hour because i'm usually idling with it.

I used to raise sail as soon as I cleared the jetty by my marina, but the engine has spoiled me so I will now use it all the way out the creek.

We have lots of traffic in Little Creek, but we do get to see the Stealth Power Boats the Navy Seals use coming out at good speed

I'm not real happy with the crap on the transom but some folks have their wind vanes back there so I figure what the hell. Plus if you are in good shape and going on a long cruise, you can remove the outboard off the bracket and relocate it.

I would actually like to have one of those like 15lb Nissan 3.5 two stroke outboards if I was cruising long distance. It would be easily removable and stored

[Ribbit]

Why not unseize the Perkins and rebuild it?

A guy on the South Coast here (South Wales) used to pull old cars out of the docks for a hobby. Most were from just after the end of WW1 to the end of the 1920's (in salt water for decades).

He'd undo things like spark plugs and sump plugs, to drain, and so there was liquid access to the inside of the engine, then he'd put them in a barrel and cover them with red diesel (the cheap stuff).

They would stay in there for 6 months, then the engines would strip down easy for rebuilding.

So get your existing engine out, whip the head off, and fill the cylinders with diesel, then while it is getting well soaked (keep wetting as much as you can with diesel, or soak it completely), get the head sorted ready, get the injector pump and injectors serviced, etc.

When you can move the pistons, get the bores rebored or lined, new bearings, new pistons and rings, and whatever else it needs, and you will probably do it in budget, as Perkins parts are available and shouldn't be too bad in price.

Seems the obvious way to go to me, and you will have a good engine to go on with, and everything you already have, fits. Probably worth checking and refurbing the transmission too while it's out.

[darylat8750]

Perhaps the guys wanting to discuss outboards could start a different thread.

To the OP: You will need to remove the old engine to replace it. Why don't you take it out and put it on an engine stand pull it apart and see just what it would take to rebuild it? If your friends are willing to look it over for you maybe if you got it opened up and cleaned up so they can see what they are looking at it may be fixable without breaking the bank. If you get it apart and the block is trash you may recover some $$ by selling parts on EBay or Craigs list.

[my_folking_boat]

Hi there. I'm new to the forum, and I may have what you are seeking. I just removed an original(?) Volvo MD1B 10hp diesel (with integral transmission) from a newly acquired 26-ft, '77 Marieholm International Folkboat. My first boat. I had to take it out to remount and clean it up; the engine and everything around it was filthy. After much consideration, I am converting to electric, which suits my needs over the next few years. Project underway.

Regarding the Volvo, the seller couldn't tell me anything other than it ran (showed me a video). Seller was a marina; boat was abandoned some years prior. Gauge says 1500 hours, but I don't know for sure. The boat itself was well-maintained, so I've got a hunch that the thing was rebuilt at some point before the owner died/got sick/aliens. After removing the engine, I paid a guy to get it running so I could be sure if it ran. Well, the old Volvo started the instant he contacted the solenoid, so good compression. It needs some refurbishment (mounts, hoses, impeller), but being committed to electric, I'm looking to sell the diesel. I'm on Lake Michigan. Message me if you are interested.