I have an ever so slightly used folding prop from our D-30 engine. I was going to replace mine but then decided to go back to the standard 2 blade prop. This prop was on the boat in the water for about a day and the boat never left the dock! I would guess it saw about 30 minutes run time max. It is essentially brand new (and worked fine) but the Volvo people wouldn't take it back.
If you are interested in saving a few bucks to have a replacement prop please let me know. I can be reached at email@example.com.
thanks and happy new year!
PropSpeed is a new performance coating for propellers
I painted the props with PropSpeed and wanted to give everyone the details in case you would like to do this. One application will last 2 years.
You can purchase thesmall kit at Westmarine which is more than enough to do 2 boats or 4 props.
PropSpeed is a new performance coating for propellers
Unlike conventional antifouling paint which does not adhere well to underwater metal, or when it does, reduces performance, this unique, environmentally-friendly, two-part coating system bonds to your boat’s propeller and running gear with no recoating needed for a year or more. Its “foul release” formulation reduces drag by preventing marine growth from attaching, resulting in fuel savings, and improved top end speed and performance. Easily applied by an experienced applicator, well versed “do-it-yourselfers” can also apply this coating by following the included application guide.
Make sure you use loctite threadlocker on all your threads before installing your bolts.
Bend up the stainless steel locking tabs
Each blade is numbered 1,2 & 3. Make sure that you insert Blade #1 in Slot #1 and so on.
Apply plenty of grease ( Lubriplate 130AA ) to the gears before you insert them in their numbered slot
I sprayed some antifouling into the sail drive cooling holes to stop growth inside the drive.
Just purchased a can of Trilux antifoul for aluminum Sail Drives and put a tube on it and sprayed it all over inside the leg. Hope it helps keep the internal growth down this season.
Ive read through this thread, and seem to be missing some basic info. Were completely new to the maintenance issues. Were hauling out next week to paint, and gather that we should at that time pull the props and grease inside. Can anyone explain how to take off a prop (maybe it's evident once your out of water and can see) Is there any special tools needed to pull a prop? We just have the standard props that came with the boat, not folding.
We do have a understanding about painting sail drives, just need to know how to get the prop off, and what to grease.
Vaya con Dios
Since there was no reply's to my questions, I'll post what I found.
We hauled the boat a couple of days ago for the first time and thought there was a recommendation to take the props off and grease something. After getting a clear view,(we have the standard two blade props that come with the Mahe), and talking with the rep here in Australia, we tried to get the props off but the nut would not come out the whole way. We were able to take off and clean the zincs behind the pop but nothing else. The rep said there was nothing we needed to do. So hopefully this is sufficient maintenance for our first haul out.
Vaycondios..... Just saw your thread.... Usually there is a locking mechanism for the bolt holdong the prop on... If it is a fixed prop then you should get the thing off if at all possible... If it is difficult to get off now it is really gonna suck if you need to get it off in the water later if you need to change the zinks or snag or break one of the props.....hopefully not but something to think about. Usually when we take props off we clean the thread with mercuric acid, and use heat.
I have Yanmar saildrives on my boat and have always had severe problems with fouling. I tried the interlux stuff but it didn't last long (had significant barnacle growth in 6 months). Interestingly some of the paint peeled off and exposed teh zinc chromate primer. When w hauled the boat, the only place without barnacles was the spots with exposed primer. Maybe I should have just used the primer. Last spring I tried the Pettit Vivid three part system.
So far so good, but it hasn't even been on 6 months so I'm not claiming any great success. The primer and epoxy coating below the antifouling paint is supposed to protect the aluminum from the copper. I guess we'll see if the barnacles or the saildrives go away. This is not an endorsement, but I have not seen this mentioned in the thread and just wanted to make the group aware of a possible alternative. The local yard claims to have had better success with this than with propspeed on boats that spent a lot of time sitting still. Since I haven't started long term cruising and the boat sits in the marina a lot I thought I would give this a try.
Location: Under a boat, in a marina, in the San Francisco Bay
Originally Posted by Scott730
The zincs are 2 pieces on all Mahes if they are the Volvos. Can't speak to the Yanmars.
Yanmars come from the factory with single-piece ring zincs that require pulling the prop to replace, but they can be retrofitted with an adapter that accepts a 2-piece zinc. A bit spendy, but worth it, IMHO.
Thanks for the feedback. We go back in today. The rep told us the reason the props were hard to get off was so that you don't loose a prop in the water. He said the screw comes out then needs to be pulled and it goes through another thread to come out. We were not able to get it out, so didn't.
We didn't have any other issues. I didn't know the grounding plates were what they are, I thought they were zincs. We are getting a bigger grounding plate put in a different area for the HF radio we are getting installed. We were told that it needed to be bigger and should be only dedicated to the HF radio, the other ones are in use, and if they are used for the HF, it could interfere with other systems.
We also found that eucalyptus oil takes paint and primer off the skin very easily without harsh chemicals. Leave you smelling like a Koala bear!