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Old 30-12-2009, 23:21   #31
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Folding prop for d-30 engine for sale

Hi,
I have an ever so slightly used folding prop from our D-30 engine. I was going to replace mine but then decided to go back to the standard 2 blade prop. This prop was on the boat in the water for about a day and the boat never left the dock! I would guess it saw about 30 minutes run time max. It is essentially brand new (and worked fine) but the Volvo people wouldn't take it back.
If you are interested in saving a few bucks to have a replacement prop please let me know. I can be reached at loristyles@me.com.
thanks and happy new year!
Lori
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Old 13-03-2010, 07:56   #32
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PropSpeed is a new performance coating for propellers

Mahe’s

I painted the props with PropSpeed and wanted to give everyone the details in case you would like to do this. One application will last 2 years.
You can purchase the small kit at Westmarine which is more than enough to do 2 boats or 4 props.

PropSpeed 200ml (.26qt.) Kit, WM Model# 7844350, MFG Part# PS-0200-K, $199.99 USD

www.propspeedusa.com

PropSpeed is a new performance coating for propellers
Unlike conventional antifouling paint which does not adhere well to underwater metal, or when it does, reduces performance, this unique, environmentally-friendly, two-part coating system bonds to your boat’s propeller and running gear with no recoating needed for a year or more. Its “foul release” formulation reduces drag by preventing marine growth from attaching, resulting in fuel savings, and improved top end speed and performance. Easily applied by an experienced applicator, well versed “do-it-yourselfers” can also apply this coating by following the included application guide.

Make sure you use loctite threadlocker on all your threads before installing your bolts.
Bend up the stainless steel locking tabs
Each blade is numbered 1,2 & 3. Make sure that you insert Blade #1 in Slot #1 and so on.
Apply plenty of grease ( Lubriplate 130AA ) to the gears before you insert them in their numbered slot

Mark
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Old 15-03-2010, 09:03   #33
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Propspeed

I noticed the posting on Propspeed.

I have used this for 2 years now and have had excellent results. Very small amounts of growth on the hub only. I think a good run under motor sheds it all from the parts exposed to water flow.

Definitely worth the cost.

Martin
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Old 20-04-2010, 19:40   #34
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Sail Drive Antifouling

Mahe’s

I sprayed some antifouling into the sail drive cooling holes to stop growth inside the drive.
Just purchased a can of Trilux antifoul for aluminum Sail Drives and put a tube on it and sprayed it all over inside the leg. Hope it helps keep the internal growth down this season.

Mark
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Old 08-09-2010, 19:02   #35
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Ive read through this thread, and seem to be missing some basic info. Were completely new to the maintenance issues. Were hauling out next week to paint, and gather that we should at that time pull the props and grease inside. Can anyone explain how to take off a prop (maybe it's evident once your out of water and can see) Is there any special tools needed to pull a prop? We just have the standard props that came with the boat, not folding.
We do have a understanding about painting sail drives, just need to know how to get the prop off, and what to grease.
Thanks
Rozzie
Vaya con Dios
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Old 12-09-2010, 22:19   #36
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manual and schematics?

Does anyone know where I can get repair manuals for the D1-30 engine and the saildrive? Even just the parts diagrams would be helpful.
thanks,
Lori
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Old 13-09-2010, 19:18   #37
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Volvo Penta 130S Sail Drive

Lori,

The Volvo Penta D1-30F Parts catalogue # 7746500
(English)

The Exploded view / schematic of the Lower Sail Drive Gear Unit can be found here.

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7748580-44-7619.aspx

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Lower...view_id.339697

See attached Sail Drive picture

Mark
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Old 15-09-2010, 02:45   #38
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Since there was no reply's to my questions, I'll post what I found.
We hauled the boat a couple of days ago for the first time and thought there was a recommendation to take the props off and grease something. After getting a clear view,(we have the standard two blade props that come with the Mahe), and talking with the rep here in Australia, we tried to get the props off but the nut would not come out the whole way. We were able to take off and clean the zincs behind the pop but nothing else. The rep said there was nothing we needed to do. So hopefully this is sufficient maintenance for our first haul out.
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Old 15-09-2010, 06:29   #39
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Rozzie
Your fine, it's really the folding prop's that need the grease. Did you find any problems during the haul out?

Scott
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Old 15-09-2010, 07:03   #40
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Vaycondios..... Just saw your thread.... Usually there is a locking mechanism for the bolt holdong the prop on... If it is a fixed prop then you should get the thing off if at all possible... If it is difficult to get off now it is really gonna suck if you need to get it off in the water later if you need to change the zinks or snag or break one of the props.....hopefully not but something to think about. Usually when we take props off we clean the thread with mercuric acid, and use heat.
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Old 15-09-2010, 07:10   #41
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Rozzie
The zincs can be removed without taking off the prop, as you already found when you cleaned them. Don't worry about the props. Next time you can pull them, heat will help in the removal.

Scott
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Old 15-09-2010, 07:52   #42
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I have Yanmar saildrives on my boat and have always had severe problems with fouling. I tried the interlux stuff but it didn't last long (had significant barnacle growth in 6 months). Interestingly some of the paint peeled off and exposed teh zinc chromate primer. When w hauled the boat, the only place without barnacles was the spots with exposed primer. Maybe I should have just used the primer. Last spring I tried the Pettit Vivid three part system.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare...ntifouling.pdf

So far so good, but it hasn't even been on 6 months so I'm not claiming any great success. The primer and epoxy coating below the antifouling paint is supposed to protect the aluminum from the copper. I guess we'll see if the barnacles or the saildrives go away. This is not an endorsement, but I have not seen this mentioned in the thread and just wanted to make the group aware of a possible alternative. The local yard claims to have had better success with this than with propspeed on boats that spent a lot of time sitting still. Since I haven't started long term cruising and the boat sits in the marina a lot I thought I would give this a try.
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Old 15-09-2010, 08:47   #43
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sailaway221
The zincs are 2 pieces on all Mahes if they are the Volvos. Can't speak to the Yanmars.
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Old 15-09-2010, 09:11   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott730 View Post
sailaway221
The zincs are 2 pieces on all Mahes if they are the Volvos. Can't speak to the Yanmars.
Yanmars come from the factory with single-piece ring zincs that require pulling the prop to replace, but they can be retrofitted with an adapter that accepts a 2-piece zinc. A bit spendy, but worth it, IMHO.
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Old 15-09-2010, 15:03   #45
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Thanks for the feedback. We go back in today. The rep told us the reason the props were hard to get off was so that you don't loose a prop in the water. He said the screw comes out then needs to be pulled and it goes through another thread to come out. We were not able to get it out, so didn't.
We didn't have any other issues. I didn't know the grounding plates were what they are, I thought they were zincs. We are getting a bigger grounding plate put in a different area for the HF radio we are getting installed. We were told that it needed to be bigger and should be only dedicated to the HF radio, the other ones are in use, and if they are used for the HF, it could interfere with other systems.
We also found that eucalyptus oil takes paint and primer off the skin very easily without harsh chemicals. Leave you smelling like a Koala bear!
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