Mahe 36: Rig and Sails

[Time Traveler]

TG Blue

Have a Forespar sprit on SOPHIE, my 2008 Mahe, flying either a Code Zero or Gennaker as needed. Works just fine, no issues.

BTW Using 5/16" Dyneema for downstays with quicklinks at the tip of the sprit. So when there's a need (e.g. tight marina or cranky conditions making anchor rode chafe on the downstays) i can simply disconnect the downstays and stow the sprit upright against the seagull striker.

[Seapatience]

Time Traveler

I have an issue with my bowsprit as I have shackles at the tip of the sprit for the downstays. A real PITA getting the dyneema line on and off. What are the 'quicklinks'??? and could you please send a picture or a source where I can view it. Thanks..

[cuffy]

Please see post 29 in this thread regarding code 0 loads

[Time Traveler]

Originally Posted by Seapatience

Time Traveler

I have an issue with my bowsprit as I have shackles at the tip of the sprit for the downstays. A real PITA getting the dyneema line on and off. What are the 'quicklinks'??? and could you please send a picture or a source where I can view it. Thanks..

Seapatience -- go to Defender and search for "Quick Links" and you'll see the kind with the nut that joins the two arms of the oval. Very strong and easy to operate with just a pair of pliers.

On SOPHIE, they join the downstay to the tip of the sprit. Could just as well have used snap shackles but they are more expensive and there's that tiny risk that they would pop open at the wrong moment.

In either case, when it's time to fold the sprit up to the seagull striker, i get into the dink to release the downstays. The sprit is just too long to safely reach the tip from the crossbar.

Hope that helps.

[Time Traveler]

Originally Posted by cuffy

Please see post 29 in this thread regarding code 0 loads

Cuffy -- did see #29 some time ago and was puzzled by it.

Had a Zero on a removable sprit on an earlier boat (Crealock 37) for years. Got a bit over-enthusiastic at one point and bent the bolted-on mast-top spinnaker crane but once that was beefed up a bit (and i stopped trying to fly the Zero hard on the wind in 15+ knots), had no further problems.

The Zero on SOPHIE is a smaller, since the Mahe carries a fractional rig, and is used only up to 12kts (upwind) or 15 (settled downwind) -- after all, if conditions are any more lively, there's just no need for the Zero.

Anyway, in my own non-scientific experience, have just never run into the kinds of loads that #29 suggests.

[Rufduck]

I know this is an old thread but don’t think it has been addressed...
‘07 Mahe and the main is pretty tired. Been recut once. Has full length battens. Also has a high cut jib, I’ve referred to as a Yankee. Both Dacron or equal.
Does anyone know what the weak point of the rig is?
Is the reefing schedule in AWS or TWS? I feel like a fool asking but logic says TWS but I was sure I read somewhere that it was AWS.
The reefing schedule strikes me as extremely conservative. Is the rig or boat really that fragile? I admit that close hauled and 18TWS the lee shroud is loose
but reefing both the jib and main seems a bit overkill.
Forgive my ignorance, I have 20,000+ hours in light weight tris and it is still hard wrapping my head around the heavier boat. What am I missing?
Any recommendations for a good cruise sail maker or those to stay away from?
Cheers, Martyn

[Time Traveler]

The Mahe Reef Schedule is definitely AWS. True that the English version of the manual does not say, but the French version is specific: AWS. (Only learned that by asking a young French fellow to help translate some of the more opaque parts of the manual ....)

Yes, the published schedule is mighty conservative, but surely lawyers were involved ... with visions of liability. But it is a benign starting point for each of us to begin learning our particular boat and our personal preferences for sailing her.

Would be greatly interested if anyone else has developed an experienced-based alternative schedule -- especially if it takes into account a third reef in the main.

Fair winds and all that.

[MKB53]

It is conservative and AWS but as noted above it's good until you get to know the boat.
Typically I would put a reef in the main when it was a consistent 20Kts but keep a full jib until it built a bit.
There is actually little decrease in speed.

With regard to the slack leeward stay - they do get loose. I tightened mine up a bit and it helped. One of the reasons I tightened it was to stop the mast jarring when coming off swells in lighter winds and a lumpy sea. It would still get slack above 20 something knots.

The Mahe has a bit of flex in it so really tightening it up won't be good.

The difference in flex is really noticeable on my Lucia which is MUCH stiffer.

[Kazamaran]

Single reef in the main and adjustments with the head sail is the way to go. The mahe is so light and fast there's absolutely no benefit to pressing her. A single reef in the main and playing with headsail from 40 to approx. 130 gives the boat great power, no stress on the rig and little chance of being over powered by the gusts you didn't think was coming.

[MKB53]

The Mahe is 3/4 rig. There is a lot of unstayed mast up there. You will see a lot if flexing in a stiff breeze which is another reason to take the first reef reasonably early. Especially if you have fitted a square top main.

[cuffy]

The Mahe rig is very solid, the mast section is more than adequate as we have had no issues with the upgraded bigger square top main sail (57m2). We reef at about 20knt app.
We have damaged the mast this season but that was the code 0 breaking the halyard diverter just above the forestay attachment and as we are on our way back to Blighty now i will go to Z spar and see if they can offer a solution to this.

[cuffy]

Been to Zspar and they have suggested this (attached). They said it has been used on Class 40 monos so should be strong enough.
Also said can be put up to 1 metre above forestay so any one after a longer hoist for kites.....

[Rufduck]

Thank you all for your thoughts and responses. Does anyone know what the static shroud tension is?
Regarding the square top main, several questions...
-How wide is the top?
-Do you keep the existing foot length or shorten it? Thinking head to foot ratio.
-How do those with a square head handle the diagonal top batten and what is the preferred term for this batten used by the group?
-Any thoughts on construction materials?
-Finally (well, probably not) anyone using the Mahe in colder climates?
We sail her year round in the NW of the States and it’s relatively cold and wet. I would like to make the boat less drafty and overall warmer. The Admiral and I love sailing and her comfort is paramount and we’re just not quite willing to chase the Sun north and south.
We have an Espar D4 factory installation that is marginal at best (it is working at spec) but the boat is quite drafty. Just wondering if others have experienced this and discovered a workable solution.
Cotemar was kind enough to reference the proper side window sealant as both aft windows now leak and the Gorilla Tape looks so...industrial. Project for next summer.
Cheers,

Martyn Adams

[sailingjoy]

Originally Posted by Rufduck

Thank you all for your thoughts and responses. Does anyone know what the static shroud tension is?
Regarding the square top main, several questions...
-How wide is the top?
-Do you keep the existing foot length or shorten it? Thinking head to foot ratio.
-How do those with a square head handle the diagonal top batten and what is the preferred term for this batten used by the group?
-Any thoughts on construction materials?
-Finally (well, probably not) anyone using the Mahe in colder climates?
We sail her year round in the NW of the States and it’s relatively cold and wet. I would like to make the boat less drafty and overall warmer. The Admiral and I love sailing and her comfort is paramount and we’re just not quite willing to chase the Sun north and south.
We have an Espar D4 factory installation that is marginal at best (it is working at spec) but the boat is quite drafty. Just wondering if others have experienced this and discovered a workable solution.
Cotemar was kind enough to reference the proper side window sealant as both aft windows now leak and the Gorilla Tape looks so...industrial. Project for next summer.
Cheers,

Martyn Adams

Hi Martyn,
Last year I bought a square top main and I am very happy with it.
Yesterday I went to the boat to take some measurements to answer your questions:

- The top is 1.42 m wide (that is the sail itself; the distance to the mast is 1.47 m (picture 1))
- I did keep the existing foot length, so the sail area increased from 47 m2 (according to the brochure) to 55m2.
- To handle the diagonal top batten (I have no idea how it is called) I tied a FenderStep fender to the mastfoot that I use as a step. As you can see in picture 2 even my (anonymous) niece can easily reach high enough to attach the sail to the top batten car. BTW you don’t have to cheer each time you do it… ;-) There are expensive systems to handle this like the Doyle Anomaly Headboard but that’s not necessary on a Mahé with its relatively low boom.
- The material for my sails is Contender Fibercon Pro 9.46 and it is cross cut.
- Finally the climate. I live in the Netherlands and in the summer we sail to England and Scotland. I don’t know that counts as a colder climate. We are a lot closer to the North pole than the you are (up to 10 degrees more higher) but then again we have the Gulf Stream which helps to keep our climate moderate. Anyway, since last year I have a Webasto Evo 55D installed (max. 5500 Watt) and up to now that has been enough.

Finally, just to show off, a picture of our boat under it’s new sail taken by somebody else while we were sailing past Lizard Point
Cheers,
Jan Jaap

[sailingjoy]

PS: The sails were made by Hagoort Sails and the mainsail cost € 5000