No worries. That is why you have all these Mahe friends on the CF.
The worn part is called a goose neck.
Its made by Z spars. You can purchase the parts from the dealer below.
Thanks Mark for the quick and helpful reply! the part I need is actually the part next to the goose neck (part 4011), but clearly this also comes from Z Spars, so will try to find the closest distributor to my location. indeed, the amount of help on this forum is nothing short of tremendous!
Thanks Mark for the quick and helpful reply! the part I need is actually the part next to the goose neck (part 4011), but clearly this also comes from Z Spars, so will try to find the closest distributor to my location. indeed, the amount of help on this forum is nothing short of tremendous!
Fellow Mahe owners...I'm looking for some recent feedback regarding single v double purchase on the main. I have a 2012 with a square top Incedences sail and a powerharken two speed for my primary winch and I've not done any modifications to the headboard.
The reason I'm asking is the main halyard has either jumped it's sheave or is otherwise dorked up at the masthead to make raising the sail difficult and lowering it even worse. I've not gone up there yet (too much boat traffic on Labor Day), but I need to start planning.
I *think* I want to go with a single purchase - it's quicker, less friction in the system, and I can service the halyard without a trip to the top...thoughts?
Have you "overhoisted" the main using the power winch and perhaps destroyed a sheave? We always wind the last little bit on our Orana to avoid that problem.
Is your block on the main twisting as it goes up causing the halyard to twist at the very top? This can occur with the Lewmar block if the locking mechanism wears out (which it inexplicably does).
I switched to a single purchase halyard several years ago but I found that because of the increased force on the single purchase line it slipped through the main clutch even though it was the correct size. I ended up going back to a double but I don't like that too much either as it twists so easily.
Lori
A sailing instructor taught me that if you coil the main halyard on a catamaran after the sail is raised, you put a twist in the halyard which does not come out because the halyard is attached to the mast at the top. The twist gets worse with every hoist, and eventually the halyard becomes very difficult to raise or lower. The solution is to flake the rope in figure "8"s instead of coiling it.
Overhoisting - might be a possibility. She was in charter for 6 months. Block is not twisting. Good suggestion on the last few inches. Have not been doing that, but will in the future! It will be a week or so before I'm able to get up the mast. I'll report back then.
Since the boat arrived in the US, the main has always been 'sticky' and won't drop under it's own weight. We visited the just splashed boat in France and it didn't have that issue during the sea trials. Does anyone else have to pull the main down, or does it drop?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DtM
I think you should stick to the double purchase.
Have you "overhoisted" the main using the power winch and perhaps destroyed a sheave? We always wind the last little bit on our Orana to avoid that problem.
Is your block on the main twisting as it goes up causing the halyard to twist at the very top? This can occur with the Lewmar block if the locking mechanism wears out (which it inexplicably does).
We do the same and have never had twist in the line.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VanIsle
A sailing instructor taught me that if you coil the main halyard on a catamaran after the sail is raised, you put a twist in the halyard which does not come out because the halyard is attached to the mast at the top. The twist gets worse with every hoist, and eventually the halyard becomes very difficult to raise or lower. The solution is to flake the rope in figure "8"s instead of coiling it.
Our block on the Orana "lost" its locking ability so that it used to twist on the way up giving tight twists in the halyard at the very top.
I eventually cut some pieces of hose (so stiff and able to be cut to size) and jammed them in the mechanism of the block (where it should lock) to keep the block in the correct alignment. hey presto, two years later it still works. Note I tried metal washers and other "solutions" and they all failed.
I had never considered the twisting mechanism as a source of the problem as it has always twisted from the time when it was new. I will check it out and see if the mechanism is faulty.
Thanks
Lori