Mahe 36: Rig and Sails

[Cotemar]

Mahes,

I know this Boom clearance question has come up in the past, so I measured the boom clearance with the sail all the way up.
It's 18-1/2 inches

[vayacondios]

In regards to the standard furling headsail.
It seems that over the last year, it has gotten progressively harder to furl (retrieve) the sail. Either we are getting old and weaker, or the friction/bearing in the furler has some issue. Has anyone taken it apart, and or renewed/modified/replaced some bearings inside? Am I being unrealistic to think that it should retrieve easily? It never was real easy, required quite a bit of effort, but lately it's even harder. I think there should be some way to make it move easier.

[Cotemar]

Rozzie,

Glade you asked. Yes, I had the same problem furling and un-furling the gib last year as the season progressed it became harder. The problem is that salt water gets into the Z Spars furler bearings and tightens it up.

This year on a calm day I unfurled the gib all the way and sprayed WD-40 into the cable slot in the extruded aluminum riser that the gib wraps around and also under the rope gipsy as shown in the picture.

As you spray just keep moving the gypsy working it around a bit, so the WD-40 will get into the inner working and you will feel it loosen right up.

It is now as new, so I will do this every season.

Mark

[Eric66]

Had the same problem and solved it the same way as Mark. Works good now!

See my last run yesterday with my spifurl.
I wish I had foldind props to reach the 9+kts!

I love my boat with her asy spi!

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s

To fix the Gib line popping open the Spinlock rope clutch on the mast.
This rope clutch is only used to put up and tension the Gib.

The problem is if you are tacking and the Gib line ever catches and opens the Spinlock rope clutch on the mast, you may not be able to roll in your Gib properly.

I have tied strapping on the rope clutch close arm, but I wanted a better solution.
I drilled a small hole and installed a zip tie which works perfect and does not get in the way of other things on the mast.

Mark

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s

Putting in a reef always seemed to be a challenge. Seemed like a lot of resistance when pulling the reef line through the leech reef hole on the back of the sail. Then climbing up in the first mast step to pull down the luff and pull the white clew reef strap through reef hole and snap shackle it on the other side of the mast. It’s tough with strong wind, but tougher when you have wind and waves.

Now that I added the new Double Spinlock XTS powerclutch for the Reef lines

The next step was to make my Reef 1 a single line Jiffy Reef from the cock pit.

I attached one 72mm Lewmar block to the reef1 leech point on the back of the sail.
Attached another block to the reef 1 luff point of the sail and ran a 75 foot (22.8 meters) of 7/16 inch (11mm) line through these blocks, so I can pull Reef 1 down with one line from the cockpit.

75 foot (22.8 meters) of 7/16 inch (11mm) XLS blue Yacht Braid line $85 usd
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|311417|314169|913347&id=1258724

Lewmar 72 mm Synchro Block – Defender # 614757 at $32 usd
http://search.defender.com/?expression=614757&x=6&y=9
Note: mounting whole has to be drilled to accept winchard long shackle

Wichard 1/4“Captive Pin Long Shackle – Defender # 607599 at $21 usd
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|118|2186|297674|314172&id=124854

Z Spars mast block #288 size 80mm $86 usd
In USA purchase from www.usspars.com
In UK purchase from www.zsparsuk.com
Note: This block replaces the smaller mast block with the same size block used on the main sail halyard.

It works like a dream at the dock. Will update you as to how all this works with the wind and the waves.

Update: Have been using this Jiffy Reefing system for a few years now and can say it is SWEET.
Everything is done from the helm using an open wench. We never have to point into strong wind. Works nice downwind also. It pulls the sail down to the proper location and I can do it all by myself.

Just make sure when you set it all up at the dock to tape or mark your lines for no-reef and reef1, so when the wind picks up you only have to think of winching it to the marks on your line (no thinking).

Mark

[Cotemar]

Mahe's,

Just for informational purposes.
Mast is a Z Spars - 01 series – Z701
Boom is a Z Spars - Z480

Most Mahes have a Gib roller furling system from Z Spars.
· Extrusion in one length or sections.
· Aerofoil shaped extrusions, double grooved.
· Aluminium alloy to spec. 6005T6.
· Swivels use stainless steel bearings top and bottom.
· Delrin liner inserted to protect foil and forestay.

Attached a few .pdf for your files and to put on you boats laptop.

www.zsparsuk.com

Mark

[simonmd]

This is why I love this forum, thanks Mark, that looks like a fantastic setup for safe cockpit reefing.

[Eric66]

Look what I did with a noodle found on the beach.
As the test is conclusive, next time I'll buy a noodle with the color that matches my spi

Eric

[vayacondios]

Regarding the Lazy Jacks

We have had trouble when raising the main sail, with the battens getting caught in the lazy jacks, have to have the wind just right and quite often have to raise and then lower the sail in bits to get past the lazy jacks.

We have just moved the anchor points for the lazy jacks out to the spreaders from the mast. Drilled and put in new saddles on the spreaders about a foot from the end of the spreader using pop rivets. Then transferred the small existing pulleys from the original mast anchor points to the new ones.

Works great, now the sail goes right up without any hanging up. Comes down just fine no worries. Wish we would have done this a year ago, would have saved much frustration in raising the main.

Rozzie

[Cotemar]

Rozzie,

Nice idea. I agree, sometimes its a real pain in the but. Very nice sollution to that.
Have to add that to my honey do list

Mark

[cat man do]

It has probably been mentioned in all these pages, but in Australia, the majority of marinas I came into on my last boat wanted to measure from bowsprit to end of steps.

It was advantageous having a removable bowsprit being able to remove the pin and put the bowsprit on the tramps making the boat 3 or 4 foot shorter

[Eric66]

Hello Rozzie,

I don't know how exactly you proceed to raise the main sail.

As for me, I loose very well the mainsheet and I have no problem!

Moreover I don't need to face exactly the wind. Close-hauled I can even raise the main with the jib in action.

Hope it helps.

Eric.

[Eric66]

To prevent the jibsheet to wrap up around the clutch when tacking I fixed a small rope as on the picture.
Sure it is not aesthetic but it works perfect!

By the way, can anybody send me a picture of the sandow on the roof before the mast like on the MAHE Evolution?
I'd like to make the same improvement.

Eric.

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s,

My Jib sheet Harken 40.2st Winch started to feel a bit tight.
It’s very easy to take apart and lubricate.

1) Loosen one regular screw in the top winch handle hole #1 in picture

2) Lift the whole drum #4 up with your other hand holding the top

Note: NO bearings or gears will come out

3) Take the whole assemble to the cockpit table
- In my case only part #2 sleeve was dry

4) Lubricate all bearings and gears and #2 sleeve with marine grease or Harken Winch grease

5) Slide drum #4 down again over bearings and gears

6) Tighten top screw and give it a spin to check that all is well

Takes about ½ hour per winch.
Skill level, Easy DIY

http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/.../40.2st_06.pdf

Mark