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Old 06-01-2011, 09:43   #166
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Rigging a continuous line furler

Martin,
We have the original FP Spifurl with the Facnor FX2500 furler. We use it a lot.
I would suggest that you initially use the most basic system possible, which is what we have. This will cost you no money and no time, and you can always decide to change it later. Once having experienced it, consider to extend it. It might be that you, just like us, would then leave it as it is.

One good reason for simplicity is that our case (spifurl with furling line half-way up the dyneema forestay) you have to pull an enormous amount of line around, and you also want to do it fast. Then you don't want the friction of blocks.

The system consists of the furling loop, a block and a stretch loop. This yellow stretch loop we tie to the starboard rear edge of the trampoline. See attached pictures.
Disadvantage of our system is that it is not obvious how to block the furling loop. We do that by tying a knot at the block. There is some risk of accidental unfurling. This only happened once, because we tend to remove the spi in most cases. Mostly there is a good reason for removing it. Maybe when you race you might want to keep it in place for the next leg.

It would be nice to use a snatchblock to block the furling loop. However this does not work both ways, and we like to be able to furl in both directions. Plus, due to flapping of the spi or other reasons (stumbling over the line?) the loose-hanging side of the furling loop will probably snap out of the snatchblock. I looked for a suitable snatchblock and did not find one yet. Maybe put a clutch on the forebeam?

I would be interested what you decide, and -when you bring the furling line back- whether that works well.
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Old 09-01-2011, 04:13   #167
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Thanks for the info Jef.

I will experiment with the layout (without spending money!) as at present I can do everything from the cockpit and would like to keep it that way. From what you do it seems that I can just cleat it off as the sailmaker suggested.

I tend to leave the gennaker up if we are likely to need it again soon and there is no strong wind forecast. I have had bad experiences with them in strong wind as they don't furl evenly.

Interestingly the local distributor for Facnor recommended the 1500 for the gennaker so I would think the 2500 is nicely over spec even though the spinnaker is bigger! I ended up getting a Profurl.
Regards
Martin
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Old 17-01-2011, 20:41   #168
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Martin,

Give me a call. 0411 104 601

daniel (2gether)
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Old 31-01-2011, 17:18   #169
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Suggestions for halyard cordage?

I have started to look for line to replace my halyard. All the options are overwhelming! I want to get something light but don't want to break the bank. Any suggestions out there??

thanks,
Lori
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Old 25-02-2011, 01:17   #170
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Re: Rig and Sails

Can someone please do me a big favor and post a photo of the top of the mast on the mahe? I changed mine out to single purchase and now am going back to dual purchase. I think I remember how it goes but would love to see a photo to make me more confident!
Also need a photo of where the outlet for the shower power is? I am thinking of adding a simple circuit and want to see where the factory puts it and if you guys think that is good place or would recommend somewhere else?
thanks,
Lori
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Old 25-02-2011, 02:15   #171
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Re: Rig and Sails

Lori,
If you mean the place where the shore power enters the boat:
There is no shore power outlet/plug. The shore power cable is stored in the rear locker in the cockpit, and from there it is directly connected to the shore power circuit breaker box. The shore power cable exits on the front, where you grab the hatch. You can check that there is enough room there for the cable.
Good thing about this is that it is less easy to steal the shore cable. Alternatively, you can install the shore power plug in the port-side wall of the inside of the locker. (Hope I explain it good enough).

If you want to install shore power outlets in your boat, please let know.
I would first check whether any cables are already pre-installed.

See picture of the mast-top. Hope this helps enough. Good luck
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Old 25-02-2011, 10:17   #172
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Re: Rig and Sails

Hi Jef,
Thanks for coming to the rescue once again! As for the shore power, thanks for the info. My boat didnt come with shore power but there is a rather large grey cable in port engine hold on the shelf by the autopilot. It says 220 on it so I am assuming this would be the pre-wiring. Unfortunately I would want to put in 110 not 220V. My understanding, and please correct me if I am wrong, is that the 220V wiring would not be sufficient (ie large enough gauge) for a 110V installation. If I could use it that would be great. I havent looked at the cable in detail yet or found out where it goes but I would guess it runs up on port hull to a location near nav station so it can be hooked up. If I have to start de novo on adding shore power to the boat do you have any suggestions on how to best do this? I want to put something in that is very simple. I want the shore power to go to a modest inverter (1000-1500W) to help with charging when at the dock and maybe 2-3 plugs on the boat for simple things again when we are at the dock mostly. I will be installing solar later this year and changing out the batteries to a 4 6volt AGMs with total AH of about 440.
thanks again for your help.
Lori
PS. Oh and by the way, I went through all my instruments etc and figured out exactly what I have in terms of the instruments/gps etc. I am going to put up a separate post tonight to get some input into how to hook it all up to a computer.
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Old 25-02-2011, 11:48   #173
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Re: Rig and Sails

Lori,
I'll answer under Electrical 110 and 220V system
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Old 28-02-2011, 23:47   #174
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Re: Rig and Sails

Would anyone be able to tell me how the bitter end of the halyard is attached at the top? I have Jef's photo but cant make out exactly how it is attached?
thanks,
Lori
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Old 01-03-2011, 00:31   #175
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Re: Rig and Sails

Never attach the bitter end of a multi block tackle at the masthead. Double at the masthead, single with becket on the sail. If the bitter end is up, how do you change the halyard? With a crane .... See Brion Toss's book Rigger's Apprentice.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:22   #176
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Re: Rig and Sails

Michael,
It is not a good construction, that is true. Could you please explain this to Fountaine Pajot? But I do not think they will spend the money to improve this point.
The halyard does tend to wear at the top. It should be checked preventively, yearly. My solution is to let myself be hauled up in the bosun's chair using the boomlift. With the spinnaker halyard as back-up line. Which is too low seeing it is a 7/8 rig, but better too low than nothing.
I keep this end of the halyard in good shape by shortening and changing ends.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:54   #177
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Re: Rig and Sails

Michael,
I also agree with you...in fact that is one of the reasons I changed my system out in the first place. I am not sure I have too many options at this point though. Jef how do you attach your halyard up at the top?
Lori
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Old 07-03-2011, 14:29   #178
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Re: Rig and Sails

On the main, what gives less wear, when it comes to type of Line/rope. ?
Spectra, Dynema ? others ?
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Old 07-03-2011, 14:46   #179
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Re: Rig and Sails

Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelC View Post
Never attach the bitter end of a multi block tackle at the masthead. Double at the masthead, single with becket on the sail. If the bitter end is up, how do you change the halyard? With a crane .... See Brion Toss's book Rigger's Apprentice.
Use the topping lift.
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Old 11-05-2011, 17:59   #180
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Re: Rig and Sails

Mahe's

I just added another double Spinlock XTS powerclutch for the leech Reef lines.
The plan is to purchase 75 feet (22.8 meters) of line and two 72mm Lewmar blocks and make Reef 1 a single line Jiffy Reef from the cock pit.

Will attach one 72mm Lewmar block to the leech of the sail and one block to the luff of the sail and run an 75 foot (22.8 meters) of line through these blocks, so I can pull Reef 1 down with one line.

Will draw up a diagram to show how it all works later.
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