Mahe 36: Plumbing and Water Heater

[Cotemar]

JC,

Just talked to Paul, the US service tech at Quick USA about the Sigmar Marine Hot water heater. He thinks the breaker keeps tripping because a hose is leaking and some water is getting into the thermostat.
He recommended checking for a water leak. I do get water below the tank so the tech may be onto something.

See attached document for all the info on Sigmar Marine which was purchased by Quick. Contact info is in their also.

Mark

[Cotemar]

Mahe's

The red & blue water piping and connectors on our Mahe’s is made by Hepworth Hep2O
It is 15 mm piping.

Here is their website www.hep2o.co.uk

Also have attached their parts list in case you need replacements or spares

Mark

[Scott730]

You can replace the Hepworth red or blue water pipes with Whale 15 mm pipe and fittings, which is readily available (even at West Marine). The Whale product has much thicker walls and will hold up better than the original piping, also the push on connectors are much easier to use and, I believe, better than the threaded connectors. Also the Whale push on connectors fit the Hepworth piping, so it is easy to retrofit. Used it while plumbing the water maker. Just my 2 cents worth.

Scott

[Cotemar]

Mahe's,

Re- Mounted the hot water heater in a better location.
Now I can see and service everything from a better position.
I started this project because of a small leak that corroded my heating element wires. No new hose is needed nor do any hose’s have to be cut, just reposition all existing parts.

Here is the process for anyone wanting better access:
Un-install (2hours)
1) Drain water tank from cold water inlet release lever (takes 1 hour)
2) Remove water pump from right side of tank
3) Remove four bolts form tank an lay tank down on the side of the engine
4) Remove four hoses bottom of tank remove three wires (takes 1 hour)
5) Remove plywood backer panel
6) Glue onto each back corner of plywood base a 1”X1”X1” riser block
· This is to allow plywood backer panel to be mounted over the silver foam insulation

Re-install (4hours)
1) Hold up plywood backer panel to use as a template
· Cut out the 1X1 foam insulation that is under the riser blocks
2) Screw plywood backer panel into new location
3) Re-mount hot water tank with four bolts
4) Screw water pump to back wall
5) Install 3 electrical wires (use dielectric grease on wire connections)
6) Install 2 water lines and 2 heat exchanger hoses from engine

Mark

[jean1146]

George this isgreat informations,it seems that there not much to it. I just need to have my stuff together and do it. Some one recommended a place in St Pete that has used sails so I need to check that.
Mark the last time I had problems with the water heater it was under warranty....so I did not have to deal with it. I can see why you have done this because under the current position you cannot do anything wit6hout having to remove the water heater.Something to think about....one more to do!
Thanks to both of you.
JC.

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s

I know their was much discussion in the past about the Hot Water Heater and making adjustments to the temperature, so I figured I would point out some important things about these hot water heaters.

1) Quick, an Italian manufacturer of marine equipment and accessories, has taken over the production and commercial distribution of Sigmar Marine, effective February 28, 2007. Website www.quickusa.com or www.quickitaly.com

2) All the important electrical and plumbing connections are on the bottom of the tank

3) The only way to drain this tank is the little black release valve on the cold water inlet
It will take about 1 hour to drain out of the ¼ inch drain hole, but will drain completely

4) The hot water outlet actually comes from the top of the tank, so removing this hot water hose to drain the tank will not work

5) The Thermostat has and adjustment that can be made with a regular screw driver

6) The Thermostat is held onto the heating element with two electrical connectors, so with a good pull you can remove it, but it has a long temperature sensor so it can not be removed because it will hit the bilge

7) To bypass the hot water tank for winter storage remove both cold water inlet and hot water outlet and then connect the hot water outlet back to the pump, so as not to fill your hot water tank with antifreeze

Ok here are some pictures to clarify all this

Mark

[MKB53]

Hi Mark

I read your comments on moving the HWC with interest. I had planned to at least relocate the pump for ease of service but will probably do as you have done with the HWC.

In addition:

I am planning to put stop cocks/taps in the water supply from the tank and the lines from the pump to the HWC and cold water supply. This will enable any water to be turned off in teh engine compartment for maintenence or if there is a leak in a line.

I am planning to fit an accumulator. We have already had to replace the pump switch (complete spare unit provided with the boat) once as the contacts were burnt and I think this will help. Note that the micro switch in the switch assembly can be replaced easily and is a lot cheaper if purchased from an electronics store than a chandlery!

Incidentally when we replaced the switch the pressure was set too high and we had a hot water line blow out. After adjusting the pressure we have not had any further issues.

Any comments or suggestions welcome!
Martin

[Cotemar]

Martin,

That is a great idea to add a few shut off valves in their. Would make things easier.

Where do you set the water pressure? I had the pump in my hand but did not notice any adjustment for water pressure.

If you move your tank, then any maintenance in the future will be a breeze.

Mark

[MKB53]

Mark

On the back of the pressure switch assembly there is a recessed grub screw (allen key ). It may have a sticky lable over it, the original did but the replacement unit did not. The manufacturer says "do not adjust or warranty will be voided" but the replacement unit was not adjusted correctly and if you replace the mirco switch yourself it will need to be adjusted.

What I was told to do by an experienced yachtie was to open the water tap that has the longest run or hydrostatic head (ie: will have the most back pressure). You then back the pressure control off (anti clockwise) until the pump starts to surge. This means that the back pressure in the line is greater than the "cut out" pressure on the pump.

You then turn it clockwise, increasing the cut out pressure, until the pump operates smoothly. I gave it a bit extra for "good luck". This may not be at the manufacturer spec but is tuned to your water system characteristics.

Mine has worked fine since I did this.

Martin

[Woodsy]

MKB53,
quote/What I was told to do by an experienced yachtie was to open the water tap that has the longest run or hydrostatic head (ie: will have the most back pressure). You then back the pressure control off (anti clockwise) until the pump starts to surge. This means that the back pressure in the line is greater than the "cut out" pressure on the pump.

You then turn it clockwise, increasing the cut out pressure, until the pump operates smoothly. I gave it a bit extra for "good luck". This may not be at the manufacturer spec but is tuned to your water system characteristics.\quote

From a lifelong plumber...you got some great advice here, and the secret to most pumped solutions. Just make sure that the pump will shut off dependably when you are done

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

We have the double water tank, but this has only one filling opening.
We found that if you fill both tanks fully, the boat becomes notably slower especially when close-hauled. So we only fill both tanks when we know that it will be difficult to get decent water. For instance when we went to St Petersburg last summer, the water there is reputedly very bad.

If you use only one tank, you might want to:
- Use one tank, then the other, then the first one again
- To close one with a bit of water and chlore in it, or other desinfectant (for instance wodka when going from Russia to Sweden, where alcohol is really very expensive)
For this you need a second filler port. I mounted one, see attached picture. Ouch it hurts to make a hole in your hull!

Tips:
- Order the identical filling port from Plastimo.
- When you receive it, try to find well-fitting A4 stainless steel screws. This was difficult, the angle of the screw head was different.
- Buy 75 cm's of 1.5 inch reinforced hose, preferably a supple on since it has to make 2 sharp bends.
- Buy 4 stainless steel hose clamps of suitable diameter
- Borrow a professional drill from the shop where you purchase the filling port. If I remember correctly it's 57 mm
- Drill a hole exactly symmetrical to the starboard filling port.
- Drill the 3 holes for mounting
- Clean the gelcoat with acetone. Apply white sealant of your preference to the filling port. Sikaflex is not UV-resistant and will become yellow on the edges. Silicone does not hold very well.
- Screw in the filling port. Remove excess kit when half dry with a plastic knife.
- The second tank has a filling pipe which is closed at the top. With a really sharp knife, cut through the filling pipe about 8 mm below the top. This takes some patience.
- Heat the filling hose in hot water to bend it twice
- Fit the hose with the hose clamp.
- There is a plastic key on the market (locally 8 euro) for opening . closing the filling cap. Prevents over-tightening and damaging of the aluminium filling caps by over-enthousiastic people.

Nice thing is you'll now have a perfectly round sample of your hull's sandwich construction.

[Cotemar]

Jef,

Great Idea adding the extra Port water tank deck fill.
I will add it to my todo list.

That is also great for those of us that have to winterize, because you have to put a lot of antifreeze in the Stb. tank before any goes into the Port tank.

Mark

[Whimsical]

Originally Posted by Jef & Marin, Netherlands

Nice thing is you'll now have a perfectly round sample of your hull's sandwich construction.

I do hope u did something to seal the core where you have cut the hole and where any screws are used into the core.

Mike

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Mike I did seal the screws, but not the side of the hole. It is basically inside the boat, where no water should come. And it is a closed cell foam. But still I agree it is always better to prevent water intrusion. I'll see if I can still do this without taking it out again.
Thanks, Jef

[Cotemar]

Mahe's

Ordered a Water Tank Deck Filler made by Plastimo from Defender.com.
They do not stock them, but are a US Plastimo dealer.

Jef from “Miss Poes” just installed one and I though that was a great idea,
so I figured I had better order one. I was always concerned about not being able to get into that Port tank for either chlorine cleaner or antifreeze for winter lay up.

It was not as cheap as some other models, but it keeps all the Deck fills alike and uniform.

Plastimo water deck fill # 28226 at $53.99
Plastimo Polyamide Key # 28229 at $15.99

Attached is more info for all the Plastimo Deck fills

Mark