This is a very interesting amd informative thread about the Mahe which contains some very well thought out modifications which are freely shared with other owners - many thanks - some of which are relevant to other FP models. I have an Orana - which I maintain myself - there are quite a lot of similar parts and problems. We live in Sydney for the European winter and sail our boat in the Med in the summer, so our spares generally come from the UK. If you are thinking of commisioning a new FP in La Rochelle make sure you buy the parts elsewhere as the local marine shops are the most expensive I have seen in Europe. However La Rochelle is a very reasonable priced haul-out for a Cat. If you want to know more send me a PM.
If you are think of modifying the woodwork on the Mahe I came across this edging which is a 95% match for my boats woodwork - see photos. This is sold by a French DIY chain called Leroy Merlin (leroymerlin.fr/) we puchased ours in Spain so I am sure its widely available from their stores in France and Spain.
Due to the high cost of VP parts I have complied a list of replacement filters, the Perkinsfuel filters are certainly relevant to the D1-20/30 engines. Most of these parts are only 30-40% of the VP parts in the UK. See the attachments for details.
Wayward wind, we have had exactly the same problem. The tridata sensor (depth TSW and water temp) and the wind instrument are on NMEA 2000, autopilot and GPS are on NMEA0183. Inbetween them is a Simrad NMEA2000 / NMEA0183 conversion module. It is located behind the fridge in a big space, accessible from the starboard hull, just behind the bathroom door.
The SydneyFuruno tech has been on WW . . . and could not find the conversion module, not even behind the fridge. Does anyone know where else it could be?
He is now waiting for the sparkie who originally installed the instruments in La Rochelle to get back to him, but I am hoping someone here can beat him to it as things may get lost in translation . . .
The Simrad NMEA2000 / NMEA0183 conversion module is a very small device. The yellow caps make it stand out.
It has to be connected and very close to the NMEA2000 network.
Can only be in four places.
1) Behind the fridge
2) Behind the gages at the helm
3) Behind the FurunoGPS display at the Nav station
4) Next to your Autopilot controller in your Port engine compartment on the port side is a large grey box.
Well I just got back from 2 months in the Exumas, hanging out with IrieCat. We had a great time and the boat performed very well. In fact on the return crossing to Florida we hit 11 knots and ran for over 2 hours at 10.5+ knots! What a great sailing day.
We hung out with a restored WWII PBY, swimming pigs and huge iguanas!
Can't wait to go back.
Is anyone using a laptop as a chart plotter and for passage making on board the Mahe 36? If so, how have you set up the system? Do you link your laptop to the Furuno GPS at the nav station? Perhaps you use a USB GPS? How do you then transfer your route on to the helm plotter?
For a long time I have known that our Mahe nr 88 has a very large compass deviation between Furuno electriccompass and the Plastimo compass. And that the deviation is caused by the Plastimo compass.
Last year I have made a deviation table, showing the Plastimo compass to have a deviation as follows:
+17 / -17 degrees deviation referenced to the Furuno electrical compass
+14 / -15 degrees deviation referenced to a high-quality hand compass.
See attached picture of the deviation table.
I have now found a very large source of deviation. This is the galvanized steel back plate of the steeringwheel cable drive.
See attached picture.
Removal of the back plate changed the Plastimo compass course with about 7-8 degrees, from 248 to 241 degrees (this is the orientation of our winter berth). The deviation table shows 6 degrees deviation at 240 degrees. This means that probably a large part of the deviation can be explained by this back plate.
Another error might be caused by the galvanized steel end piece of the steering cable, with which the black cable is connected to the steering wheel construction (see the picture). I will try to use a demagnetizer on that piece, if necessary. Probably this is not necessary, since it is much smaller and farther away from the compass.
I intend to replace the galvanized steel back plate with a 316L stainless steel, laser cut plate, still to be produced.
Checking this is quite easy: just watch the compass turning when you remove the back plate.
Another improvement: Modified the port forward bed
Hi all, yesterday we have modified the port forward bed to improve comfort and ventilation; as we have done on both rear beds already.
First you remove the matrasses and the 2-piece multiplex board under it. Then we mounted a slatten floor from Ikea, model Sultan Lillaker of 200 * 140 cm. Cost 49.95 Euro. On top of this went a matrass protector, special offer 13.95.
Since you remove the multiplex board and replace it with the slatten floor, the weight will actually go down!
See attached pictures.
Because the inside of the hull has quite a large angle, we had to adapt the shape of the wooden battens where they go inside the rubber end strip. This prevents to much torsion of the rubber end strip by the batten going in with the wrong angle.
At the outer side of the hull this was not necessary.
I adjusted my Plastimo compass to compensate for the deviation, I am now within a degree or 2 of the Furuno compass. There are 2 wheels on the back of my compass for adjustment.
As it relates to the beds, I just added a 3 inch memory foam topper to the factory mattresses, What a difference it has made, I actually told my wife that I love sleeping on the boat now.
We have now mounted all the LED interior lights which Mark (Cotemar) had kindly sent us from the US to Europe. See his post on this of some months ago. They are as bright as the 10 W halogens, the color is OK, but slightly greenish which is a lot better than blueish.
A friend has pointed me to a European supplier of comparable lights: roh-tec
His experiences are good: the leds give good light, good color, service is fast, price is OK. They have a broader range of models than Ledwholesalers.com.
Put G4 in the search box.
I will order some light fixtures there for under the beds, and to replace the lights in the engine room and head. I want to replace the one in the head because the light tube suffers from many off-and on-switches. And the ones in the engine rooms because they don't work well with humidity plus low temperature, sometimes they don't start. Plus the leds are more durable, and use less power. (the head light is 11 W)