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RKsailsolo · 01-01-2014, 13:41

After much enlightened reading on this from past CF archives (such a fantastic resource) I am left with a persistent question about the drawbacks of the FP design placing the anchor under the tramp so you cannot get to it. Kanter's critique in his Cruising Catamaran Communique defines this as a poor design. While I see lots of owner improvements, what I really hope to achieve is a process to handle the anchor solo. Is this possible? If single handed Mahe anchoring is the goal, what have others done to perfect the technique?

RKsailsolo · 04-01-2014, 03:55

Anyone with similar single handing your anchor under tramp (behind the bows) concerns?

tpkas · 04-01-2014, 05:19

Yes, I do have concerns. It's a PITA the way it's set up from the factory. In calm conditions it's not too bad however with any sort of breeze it's a 2 crew effort to raise the anchor without the chain abrading the hull. Setting the anchor after dropping can also be awkward. I intend adding a "lifting point" from the forebeam in the future. In fact, it may well be the next item on my list of things to do!

Regards,

Brian

RKsailsolo · 04-01-2014, 05:53

Thanks TPKAS. I am six months into my research of designs for my less than 40' cat purchase 3 years from now. After reading Charles Kanter's self described "rant" on poor anchor placement design, I discovered the first negative about my top pick so far (Mahe). Recognizing that FP does this for most models! I have got to think that many have figured out a way to get solo deployment, retrieval done either through mechanical modifications or handling process, or both. There is so much to like about the Mahe that I don't want to let it go without learning more.

DotDun · 04-01-2014, 06:22

Keeping the weight off the bow is the reason for FP anchor placement. I'm sure being able to single-hand is a much lower request/requirement. You can single-hand the anchor, you just have to do it slowly. Raising the anchor from the helm without looking at it is a pretty stupid thing to try.

The more experience you gain owning a cat the more apparent it becomes that Kanter's wisdom is simply just another opinion. One that not everyone agrees with.

ShaktisBoy · 04-01-2014, 06:23

The reason the anchor is there is to keep the weight centered in the boat. We have the same handeling issue with the leopard. If its rough or windy chaces are your chain is going to contact the hull. The hardest thing for us is setting the bridal. You have to reach through the narrow gap past the roller and hook it on, or pull the bridal up throuh the same gap and try to guide it back through when setting. The system is not ideal but is a compromise I can live with. Single handeling can be done in rough conditions if you utalize the autopilot as a heading hold with just enough power to hold you into the wind, release enough rode for the bottom depth and conditions then attatch the bridal release 20 or so more feet of chain and back down to set. I have done this before when anchoring alone. I certainly wouldn't let the anchor position keep me from an otherwise fine vessel unless of course you are comparing two boats side by side that you like equally well, cost the same and the deciding factor came down to anchor retrieval and deployment of one boat over the other.

RKsailsolo · 04-01-2014, 06:27

Got it. Appreciate your input Dot Dun. But what I am looking for is feedback from those who may have mastered the single handed anchor process using an under tramp, back from the bows design.

Shaktisboy, thanks for sharing your experience. The leapord is in the back of my top five due to the air and water draft (planning for FL and Bahamas cruising).

DotDun · 04-01-2014, 06:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKsailsolo

Got it. Appreciate your input Dot Dun. But what I am looking for is feedback from those who may have mastered the single handed anchor process using an under tramp, back from the bows design.

The only time you'll have a problem is when you have strong wind and current that are in different directions. In 'normal' conditions, go slow. In 'normal' conditions, the boat is held by the weight of the chain, you pull up the slack, stop, and let the boat move toward the anchor, then pull some more. The windlass isn't built to pull the boat, only lift the chain/anchor. In 'non-normal' conditions, either use the autopilot with engines idling in gear and/or run back and forth.

Although I generally don't single-hand, most of the time the 2 of us are up front while retrieving the anchor (one is just watching

).

If you truly single-hand, you should pick your anchorages carefully where you won't have big tidal flows.

RKsailsolo · 04-01-2014, 06:50

Perfect Dotdun. Just what I was looking for. Technique is becoming clear.

**Cotemar** · 04-01-2014, 06:59

If your worried you can add an Anchor davit roll bar which stops the chain form sliding up the sides and jamming.

We have a few Mahe single handers using it.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1087093

RKsailsolo · 04-01-2014, 07:13

Thanks Cotemar. I appreciate your awesome curation efforts on FP and Mahe information. I was reading that thread earlier today and found it insightful. The rollbar solves some issues but not the potential chain drag across hulls. Wonder if there's some of us who have mastered this using a technique or modification or combination of the two?