Mahe 36: Interior

[MKB53]

Sealing the floor was one of the things that our importer did (and charged for) as part of their commissioning. Well worthwhile I reckon.

[Cotemar]

Mahe’s,

Just added a Gas Spring to the Stern Locker.
It always wanted to close at the wrong time, so here is my solution.

Here are the parts you will need: (www.spdhardware.com)

GSSX-5200-20 Stainless Steel Gas Spring $51.13
BRX-1010 Stainless Steel Bracket $3.50
BS1005SS Stainless Steel Ball Stud $3.10

Takes about a ½ hour to install.

Mark

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Hi all, yesterday we have modified the port forward bed to improve comfort and ventilation; as we have done on both rear beds already.
First you remove the matrasses and the 2-piece multiplex board under it. Then we mounted a slatten floor from Ikea, model Sultan Lillaker of 200 * 140 cm. Cost 49.95 Euro. On top of this went a matrass protector, special offer 13.95.
Since you remove the multiplex board and replace it with the slatten floor, the weight will actually go down!
See attached pictures.

Because the inside of the hull has quite a large angle, we had to adapt the shape of the wooden battens where they go inside the rubber end strip. This prevents to much torsion of the rubber end strip by the batten going in with the wrong angle.
At the outer side of the hull this was not necessary.

Jef

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Scott,
We have already modified all our matrasses using a better foam quality, since the standard matrasses become soft on the place where you are lying mostly. You tend to roll into the hole then. Wouldn't this still happen if you have a top matrass?
The reason for mounting the battens was to prevent build-up of humidity and mould at the bottom of the matrass due to insufficient ventilation.
If you just drill large holes into the multiplex board, to improve ventilation, this becomes too pliable under weight.
After drilling big holes under the rear beds, we have strengthened the rear beds with an aluminium beam lengthwise under the middle of each double bed. And I intend to remove most of the multiplex under the rear beds to reduce weight and further improve ventilation; the battens under the matrasses are supported on the sides and by the aluminium beam in the middle.
Everybody has his own solution....
Jef

[Scott730]

Jef
I was under the impression that under the aft beds is a water tight bouyancy chamber. That is why storage under the bed is only half the depth of the bed. I wouldn't drill holes in this area.
When in the marina, I also leave my A/C, heat unit in a dehumidifing mode which takes care of most of the mold that would otherwise build up in the interior of my boat, never had mold under the mattress because of this, however, it certainly could be a problem if I didn't do this.

Scott

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Scott,
You are completely right that the buoyancy chambers should not be touched.
We have not drilled holes in these, only in the multiplex board. The matrasses have slatted floors under them so there is ventilation between the fore and aft part of the matrass bottom. The holes in the multiplex can thus ventilate the whole matrass surface.
The slatted floors move the sleepers' weight to the centre and the outsides of the double bed. Under the centre of the bed, under the multiplex part, I have mounted a lengthwise aluminium bar to strengthen the multiplex (which was not very strong to begin with, and became too pliable due to the holes). The aluminium bar is supported by the top of the buoyancy chamber using an aluminium L bar of 20 cm. These are welded at right angles in a T-shape.
Now that this aluminium bar is in place (since a year), I will remove almost all the multiplex, except where it supports the slatted floor: on the sides, and above the aluminium bar. Removing the multiplex improves ventilation and reduces weight.
I do not want to remove all the multiplex, since this creates a difference in height between the aft and fore part of the rear beds.
On the front bed the slatted floor rests directly on the polyester, the multiplex was fully removed. This reduces the increase of height by the slatted floor. And has obvious benefits for weight and ventilation.

Hope I was clear enough. To my regret I have not pictures of the rear bed construction, that would have helped.
Jef

[vayacondios]

Has anyone come up with a good professional solution to the cracks along the steps down into each hull. They are a great catchment for dirt. Wondering if anyone has found any moulding or material that would work. Right now I just have a rolled up teatowel.

[Cotemar]

Mahe's

Added a Spice rack for larger Spices. Moved the original plastic shelfs to other cabinets. Put curtains on some of the Cabinets.

Mark

[vayacondios]

Love the Floor Sealing project - That's next on my list.

Also the shower curtin and towel racks. I couldn't tell by the photos how you attached the towel racks. Is it to the underside of the wood moulding?

I didn't get any response to my cracks on the side of the steps. I have since got a long duster that fits in, but still would like to get rid of those large cracks.

Anyone make and fly/bug screens yet? I had some from the factory, but they only made them for the cabins, not for the hull hatches or saloon hatches. I have some ideas but would be interested in some others.

[Cotemar]

Vayacondios

The Shower Curtains rod is held up by loosening the stanchion bolt and rapping some SS wire around it and the Curtain rod. On the other side I made a U shaped piece of SS wire and hooked it over the fiberglass lip. Has been perfect for the whole season.

For the Towel Racks I drilled tiny holes in the fiberglass and put two small screws per rack into the small drilled holes. This is a double wall at this location with about 1.5 inchs (38 millimeters) behind it of air space before you hit the hull.

The Voids on both sides of the steps is a problem and we just clean it out like you. Has not been a priority at this point, but may look at it more this season.

For the fly/bug screens I was going to purchase the white aluminum screen stock you buy at your local hardware store and bend it to fit the saloon hatches and then install the screen off a roll.
I have made these for my home and where fairly easy. The Mahe hatches will be more challenging, but do able.

I will post with pictures when I have these project done.

Mark

[Scott730]

Mark
First, great job on the new improved F-P layout, I owe you a Klick when you come south, while maybe 2 or 3.
I'll try to post pictures of how we did our screens, we are not happy yet with the round roof screen, still working at that, would like to see your screen, Mark. On the forward facing hatches, I just used a section of screen and screening spline. There is a groove that you can push the splining material into, just like rescreening a house window. Works great and I never miss place the screen.

Scott

[lstyles]

I am very interested in what you guys come up with for screens etc. I am going to tackle this soon. I wasn't aware you could by the screen parts at the hardware store so that is good news. Has anyone thought about a screen door for the cockpit door. That would enable you keeping door open and getting good cross ventilation.
Any thoughts? Love to see some pictures of what you guys have done.
Thanks
Lori

[lstyles]

Hi Jef,
I like what you did with the slats under the port forward bed. Here in the US we don't seem to have the same Ikea slats as you do. Ours are just wooden slats probably attached with cloth material. I haven't actually gone and looked at them at the Ikea store yet so I am not sure. Do you think that slats alone would work the way yours did. I am not at my boat but is there a way to support those slats sufficiently. I like the idea of cutting out some weight and increasing ventilation. My boat gets mildew quite easily.
thanks,
Lori

[Jef & Marin, Netherlands]

Lori,
Sorry for not answering earlier, I just saw your question. I missed it due to the thread split-up.
I think it is possible to use other slats. But they must be quit strong. You have close to 2 inches to rest them on as you can see in one of my pictures. You would need some support structure to screw/glue/whatever your slats to. Maybe massive rubber? The slats must be higher than the polyester rim, otherwise they will bump on the part of the hull which carrier the wash basin if it were a bathroom. (This would make it a kind of detector of what you are asked not to discuss on this thread).
Well, if you use very strong slats you might glue them to polyester band to keep them in place, and let them rest on the washbasin support. You would then have the comfort of ventilation, not of softness.

I have no idea whether Ikea USA have these kinds of systems. These systems are also sold by specialist companies that do beds for boats. But at a price I am not prepared to pay, especially if Ikea sells the stuff.
We have such a system under all our beds. Also we have replaced all the standard foam in the matrasses with high-quality foam, including in the saloon.

[vayacondios]

Since we live aboard, and have no storage or house.
Wayne has converted the Port forward 3/4 berth into a shop. Now all his tools and spare parts are organised, and easy to get at. It's a start and Im sure he will continue to add/modify this area.

Removed bulkhead wood that ran across the doorway/bunk area so it's now a door opening. Then cut the wood under the bed into a shape for a shop bench. Installed/secured heavy duty rubberised plastic bins. Thought wood ones would be to heavy so opted for plastic.

Rozzie