Belize 43: In General

[jpemb7]

So lucky,
have you used a 'mast tugline" to reef or lower your main in strong winds while sailing down wind ?
How did you set it up and what was the procedure like ?

Jim

[Lucky]

Hi Jim,

I have not yet installed this line, however this is how I think:
The line is a 14mm with a SS hook that is hooked into the lowest reefing grommet. Then it's taken down to the port cleat at the mast base and pulled hand tight.
To use the line when reefing the main is lowered using the starboard ST44 and the tugline then is handled with the port winch, all this while standing in front of the mast!

When the reefing grommet has arrived in control down far enough the reef webline is easily pulled through the grommet and affixed. Then the main is tightened....you're done!

Have not tried this yet as the boat is on the hard!

If someone have similar maby better ways of securing the reef at the mast I would be very happy to see it.

Also I'm not too happy with the factory provided webbing! Anyone that's come up with a better solution, let us know!

Happy lead free lead free sailin

[jpemb7]

Hi Lucky

This would be a simple set up and easy to try out. You cuold also use this line to tighten the luff which is often difficult with just the halyard on a fully battened main.

I have a temporary set up like this on my boat that I use sometimes. But what if you need to put in a second reef ? Can you reach the second reefing point by hand to fix the temporary line. I'd have to climb onto the boom to do it on my boat.

Jim

[Gordon]

On our Orana we had the sailmaker stitch a webbing strap with a stainless ring attached to the loose end with the ring in the same position as the reefing grommet. We mostly use the second reef so have a permanent reef line running up thru the second reef grommet and back down thru a gooseneck block and back to the winch.This enables us to lower the main and have the second reef webbing/stainless ring in position to then walk to the mast to clip the s/s ring into the mast fitting. The webbing strap is stiched with the ring end down and strap running up the sail, and we have the three reef points covered this way. To prevent the ring and strap flappilng in the breeze he also fitted a small velcro strap to hold these webbing straps firm to the sail, also makes it easy to grab the s/s ring when at the mast.

[jpemb7]

On our Orana we had the sailmaker stitch a webbing strap with a stainless ring attached to the loose end with the ring in the same position as the reefing grommet

Gordon, I think this is an excellent idea. I really struggle at times getting the grommet on the reef hook.

Why do you mostly use the second reef and can you put the reef in without rounding up ?

Jim

[Gordon]

Jim, We have found that the second reef will allow us to continue in winds up to 40kts. We have not been in the open with winds much above that. And yes we can control the main down on one winch and winch down the reefing line which is in place, without leaving the helm position. Sailing more into wind did help with reefing. Having the first and third reef lines in place prior to leaving port on a trip is part of our prep, but for local sailing we only leave the second reef line in place.

Gordon.

[Lucky]

Jim and Gordon,

Sounds like Gordons set up is good for the Orana, but the configuration on the Orana is different from the Belize, I belive! Would be good to use a similar system on the Belize.

Jim, the tug line is just that, mening that it's only used to pull down the last bit of the main when lowered. This to secure the main from flogging when attaching the reef webbing. When another reef is required the tug line, used as you mentioned partly as a Cunningham, is released and the main lowered enough to reach up to the next reefing grommet and the same process as the previous reef is repeted.

The same goes for the third reef. What I have found is that when the wind is in the +15m/s range it is very difficult to hold on to the sail while attaching the reef web.

Hope this make sanse to you.

Happy lead free sailin

[jpemb7]

Thanks guys,
I'll have to try out some of these ideas on my boat.

[DotDun]

Belize Steering Lines

After the post last year by MeckDC (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ers-32993.html), I decided to perform some preventative maintenance and replace mine before any problem.

I ended up using 1/4" Amsteel Blue and (2) new thimbles at the helm end, then splicing it per the instructions from Samson (http://www.samsonrope.com/site_files/12S_C1_EyeSpl.pdf). A 1/4" & 5/16" fid worked really well. The original lines from FP were sewn by machine, so I added a good 25-30 stitches (by hand) more than what Samson suggested in their instructions.

All turned out really well, I was surprised how much tension is put on those lines to get all the play out of wheel. I kept my old lines for a spare set, they have some rash but have plenty of life in them. (I'll swap ends/thimbles before using them again to move the chafing to a new spot.)

This project took 45 feet of line, I bought 60 (just in case), next time I'll buy only 50 feet.

Might be a good idea to keep a watch on your steering lines! The chafing is at the stand-up blocks under the wheel and the cheek blocks aft.

[Dreaming Yachtsman]

I wish I had read the post by MeckDC - one of our steering lines parted about two weeks ago as we we tacking to head into port. Fortunately the emergency tiller was handy and gave us enough control to reach anchorage. An emergency repair with tripled up "Spyder line" that I had on board is working for now but I need to replace the set. Since we are in Puerto Rico heading to BVI's, finding suitable replacement may be a real chore.

I had looked at the lines per the annual inspection recommended by the owners' manual but could not see the sections worn thin at the blocks below the steering pedestal.

[CHARTER MAGIC]

As to the steering rope , it is spectra and my 2005 Bahia now has 17600 miles on her, only 1300 hours on engines, and the line has no wear. And it is quiet, but like most cats mine spends most of her time on auto pilot , using Raymarine Smart pilot to keep best apparent wind angle and this puts no strain on line.

By the way, i have had my Bahia in 25 knots on the nose with 7-8 foot seas and she points to 42 degrees apparent, so i am more than willing to put up with a few design flaws or shortcuts, especially when you consider the entry price.

[Pete Chambliss]

Got the bad news on our haulout this spring that both sail drives had been done in by electrolysis to the tune of about $10,000 in total repair bills. PLus we lost 1/2 the sailing season waiting for the units to arrive from Japan. Yanmar USA had underestimated demand for the units due to increase orders for replacement and new boats needing the drives.Transmission oil was actually leaking through the solid metal of the port drive. We believe the problem came from an improper wiring job on the pier. However, we now have a galvanic isolator plus a large sacrificial zinc and are getting the pier electrical supply checked, and not leaving the boat plugged in all the time.

[careka]

Originally Posted by Dreaming Yachtsman

I wish I had read the post by MeckDC - one of our steering lines parted about two weeks ago as we we tacking to head into port. Fortunately the emergency tiller was handy and gave us enough control to reach anchorage. An emergency repair with tripled up "Spyder line" that I had on board is working for now but I need to replace the set. Since we are in Puerto Rico heading to BVI's, finding suitable replacement may be a real chore.

I had looked at the lines per the annual inspection recommended by the owners' manual but could not see the sections worn thin at the blocks below the steering pedestal.

Why dont you rebuild to Hyd Steering ?
isent there rom or Why havent anybody done so ?

Just wondering ?

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by careka

Why dont you rebuild to Hyd Steering ?
isent there rom or Why havent anybody done so ?

Just wondering ?

IMO, hydraulics are not needed and would be a bigger maintenance issue (plus more weight). The mechanical advantage hydraulics offer is not necessary, the wheel is never 'heavy'. There is nothing wrong with using spectra for steering control lines, one simply needs to monitor the system and replace the lines and/or blocks when necessary. I wanted a spare set, so I replaced my lines at 7 years old and kept the original ones for a spare set, the old ones were is excellent condition, I'll swap them end-for-end and use them again. The whole system, including blocks can be replaced for ~$150, why would you spend the money for hydraulics?

[jglauds]

Similar to Gordon, we have re-arranged our reefing mechanics as follows on our Orana, driven by my wife's advice after her Atlantic crossing. We can reef from the cockpit.

Our luff reef points now each have a block attached via the kind of web and s/s ring arrangement mentioned by Gordon -- we think the block simplifies the downpull considerably. At the gooseneck, this line runs thru a turn block and back to Spinlock jam cleats (we have 2 3-jammer Spinlocks -- one for 3 luff reeflines, and 1 for 3 leach reeflines.)

On the leach reeflines, which also pass thru blocks sewn into the leach reef points before disappearing into the boom and emerging at the gooseneck, we have experienced issues with the gooseneck jam cleats letting go at the most inopportune times -- in addition to which reliance on those gooseneck jam cleats requires a trip to the mast ... so we run the leach reeflines down to turn blocks at the gooseneck, and then back to the Spinlock jammers. It's IMPORTANT to align these turn blocks precisely to avoid chafing as the reefline emerges from the boom; we use hoseclamps with a bit of rubber on the inside to lock the turnblocks into a specific place on the gooseneck arch.

This spring, we plan to add the down hauls on the luff -- but I'm still noodling over how to avoid three downhauls, one for each reef point.

We added a second bag for lines but another three lines might be too much!

/jon