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Old 25-02-2012, 04:58   #106
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Location: Auckland/Mediterranean
Boat: Orana 44
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Re: Engines

I have had a watermaker since 2008 in my Orana which has been used for 5 months each year without any problems. IMHO the choice is between a 12v and an engine driven one - basically a high output or low output type. The problem with the 220v type is unless you have a built in generator you have get it out and run the external generator specially to make water and a portable generator doesn't have the extra power to charge the batteries as well. However if you can drive this type of watermaker off an inverter (whilst running the engine) or via an electric clutch off the engine - then it solves this issue. We all run the engine unfortunately much more often then we would like so its logically to have a high output watermaker coupled to the engine. I have a 12v Spectra Ventura 150T (manual) chosen purely due to its efficency 24L/hr at 9ah. So it can be run most days whilst at anchor (solar/wind) and of course whilst motoring. I keep the water tank topped up as I go which means I don't need a high output version. Yes the spectra has two proprietory parts the Clark pump which achieves the high efficency and a "special lift pump" which I suspect could be replaced by something similar. Also the picking solution is proprietory but food grade anti-freeze can be used unfortunately its impossible to find in the Med. All the other components including the membrane are industrial standard parts. I would stick to a simple non electronic control type in all cases - what is the point of paying a couple of thousand dollars extra for electronic control (no extra water just unnecessary complexity) that might go wrong. Manual operation means checking the TDS with a handheld meter and then diverting the flow into the tank - in addition by checking the flow rate and guages you will pick up problems earlier. Manual flushing is simple and anyway filters have to be cleaned regularly. Just make sure the unit is installed to make maintenance easy - probably means diy - its not difficult.

Knowing how we use the boat now and if doing it again subject to the cost I would probably opt for the engine driven type using standard industrial components.

Good Luck
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:35   #107
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Location: Port Bouvard West Australia
Boat: Fountaine pajot, Mahe, 11m
Posts: 10
Re: Engines

Hi,
We appreciate you sharing your thoughts on watermakers. We received some feedback from the manufaturer of the Citor model watermaker recently......quote.......

it will be very costly to mount the Clutch type HP Pump to your existing engines as we have to have balanced "A section Pulleys" and specific mounting brackets and space is at a premium.
From this view point it will be advisable to install a Katadyn SW Desalinator capable of 25 ltrs/ hr of fresh water, this will be much easier and economical than the Clutch type.

The next day we were encouraged by a reply we received from a New Zealand manufacturer of the Openocean water maker......

We have installed our engine drive watermakers on many engines ( over 120) and we as manufacturer do not actually build brackets for every engine. Each engine installation is different as the engine room may have a bulkhead in the way or extra equipment such as an alternator may effect the bracket so one design may not work on another boat. Seawind for instance had the 1160 model and we designed a bracket for it and then they changed the head area and we had to change the bracket. They then designed the 1200 series and we had to modify the bracket once again. The simplest route for you is get a engineering shop to look at your engine and build a simple bracket to suit your installation. It has been done many times for extra alternators, fridge compressors and water maker pumps and is not rocket science. We would be happy to talk and provide drawings for a engineer to build a bracket.


We will continue to liaise and research our options.

Regards,
K & J
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:40   #108
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Re: Engines

On Takamoana, we have installed a 60 litre / hour Dessalator, 12 Volt DC draws about 45 amps so usually run when motoring. To date, have had 18 months of trouble free fresh water, regular pre-filter replacement and fresh water flush the only maintenance. Installation in the stbd engine room was very straight forward with no engineering challenges to deal with.
Gary
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:06   #109
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Re: Engines

Hi Gary,

Your installation sounds good. Are you able to post some more detail about the make and model of watermaker you have on your Lipari please?

Regards,

K & J
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:36   #110
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Re: Engines

Hi K&J
Our watermaker is a Dessalator D60, details of which can be found at : Dessalator* l *Developement of unique systems for the desalination of sea water* l *12 or 24 V Models*
Not sure of prices in AUD but ours cost around 6,000 Euro in 2010 in France.
No affiliation with any of the companies - just a satisfied customer.
Gary
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:48   #111
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Re: Engines

I prefer not to reinvent the wheel and installed a proven watermaker, Spectra 200T. I have had this unit for 3 years now and it runs great, makes about 8 gallons per hour and uses around 9 amps DC. with solar panels you can run this unit for hours at anchor with no problems, just need to clean the filter when the pressure increases and backflush. As stated in an earlier post, there are only 2 proprietary parts, the rest are standard over the counter parts. In 3 years of use, never had to replace anything other than the filters.
I installed the unit in one of the hanging lockers (pictures are in another thread) for easy access. Installed the unit in a few hours, very straight forward.

Scott
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Old 07-03-2012, 17:34   #112
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Re: Engines

Thanks again to all for your thoughts. You have provided great information for us to work with. We will be sure to let you know which way we decide to go with the watermaker.

Cheers,
K & J
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Old 03-04-2012, 22:51   #113
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Re: Engines

There is a product called Salt X or Saltaway. You can buy in concentrate and mix 1/2 cup concentrate with 1/2 cup fresh water in a cup and freeze. Then pop this into the raw water intake filter, run your engine for 30-40 seconds and it works against build up in the heat exchanger.
We being complete novices to diesel engines, just learned about heat exchangers and potential problems and maintence. Wish I had read about this stuff from the beginning and done it as a regular maintenance.
We now rev the engines up (in neutral) as well before shutting them down. Also we were told to not baby the engines, that's how you get carbon build up. So all new stuff to us.
Rozzie
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Old 21-06-2012, 18:25   #114
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Anyone know where i can get parts for fuel prefilters noticed they arent racor
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Old 21-06-2012, 19:01   #115
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Re: Engines

1rkghost,

Maybe these links will help. No parts required.

Engines

Engines
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Old 21-06-2012, 19:03   #116
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Thank once again your a great resource cant thank you enough
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Old 28-06-2013, 01:44   #117
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We recently came off the slip and after four days the starboard engine had no water coming out. We had lost prime. We have slipped several times before with no drama but this time was different. The issue was quickly resolved by removing the hose to the water pump where it connects up high and pouring in about a litre of water. Next time we will make sure to close sea cocks before being lifted.
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Old 04-07-2013, 20:48   #118
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Location: Sydney, Australia, Cruising Greece in the summer.
Boat: FP Lucia 40, Hull #22
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Re: Engines

Hi Rozzie

An issue I had after slipping was that some of the growth that is dislodged when they cleaned the water intake slots got sucked into the intake (inside the leg) and blocked it. I cleared it by undoing the top of the inlet hose and blowing through that. Re-priming may also dislodge loosely jammed bits as it will cause some backflow.
You need to keep an eye on it because, as in my case, it was fine when I started the motors but by the time I had got back to the mooring one engine had blocked.

I considered putting a proper through hull intake in but I hate cutting holes in a perfectly good hull!

Cheers
Martin
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Old 09-07-2013, 22:52   #119
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Re: Engines

Does anyone know the specifications of the coolant temperature sensor (diameter and thread) for the Volvo D1-20 ?

I'm thinking of replacing the one connected to the EVC with an aftermarket sender that has both a variable resistance (for a gauge) and switch (for an alarm). The Volvo options are a bit pricey and while the idea of using the wireless BBQ temp monitor appeals, I think I'd prefer a couple of permanently wired gauges.
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Old 09-07-2013, 23:31   #120
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Re: Engines

I ended up purchasing one of these on ebay

TM4 Twin Marine Engine Temperature Warning Alarm Sensor FOR Twin Engine Boats | eBay
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