I have the Volvo Penta Workshop Manuals for our engines and sail drives.
Just PM me, if you need any help with trouble shooting a problem.
These are the manuals that your mechanic would use to fix your engine or saildrive.
Workshop Manual for Volvo PentaDieselMarine Engines
D1-13-A/B/F, D1-20-A/B/F, D1-30-A/B/F, D2-40-A/B/F
Pub # 47701798 English Date 10-2010
Workshop Manual for Volvo Penta Sail Drives
130S-A, 130SR-A, 130S-B, 130SR-B
150S-A, 150SR-A, 150S-B, 150SR-B
Pub # 7742984 English Date 6-2011
Theoretically it should be around 14.4 V at 25 degrees centigrade, for open lead-acid batteries. In reality it is slightly below, around 14.2 - 14.3. Which also has good sides, since at higher temperatures the batteries should be charged at a lower voltage, which the alternators do not accomodate.
Our original batteries still seem OK after 3 years, although their capacity might be decreased. Originally they were half discharged after 150 Ah, then they would still have 11.9 - 12.0 V. Now this voltage is reached at a smaller discharge. This is however not a big problem yet, since the solar cells charge the batteries everyday.
Last summer, when cruising in Portugal, we had a cooling system sea water pump leakage.
The Volvo Penta workshop manual tells you how to remove the sea water pump, but not how to repair it, since Volvo Penta wants you to purchase a (quite expensive) new pump instead of replacing 2 seals costing only a little bit of money.
I have repaired it myself during our holiday.
Attached Word document tells you how to do this, either as a simple of as a full repair.
Also I suggest read it when you do not have a leaking pump, since it tells you which spares and special tools to take with you.
Good luck, hope you appreciate my effort.
Defender sells a stainless steel fuel vent, but the screens where hard to clean and not removable.
You can access this area by removing the rear panel under the galley sink.
We do have a 1” inch thick foam cored hull in this section, so I just used a small screwdriver to dig out the foam coring and filled the hole with epoxy. Then I drilled the new epoxy hole to 3/4 inch and siliconed and inserted the new fuel vent.
Having problem with port engine. Intermitenly the engine won't start the display at starter wont even come on. Some times i can shut and open the breaker at the port engine key and it will start again and sometimes it wont for several days but then will start out of the blue. Sometimes this happens right after using the windlass. Any ideas or thoughts. Tried replacing control panel at helm but didn't work.
Sounds like a loose connection.
No power to the helm control means no power at the starter
Check all your grounds (black) and positive(red). Use a wrench to tighen them all. Use a volt meter to check that all connections are good and have 12.5 + volts.
Main port switch may be bad. Switch it on and off a bunch of times to make a good contact.
Engine will not start with less than 12volts, so make sure your batteries are topped up.
Port Engine should always be running to use the windless. With port engine running all voltage checks should be 14.8 Volts.
We have had our Mahe just over a year now and are planning our first lengthy coastal cruise north up the West Australian coast. Water and diesel supplies are very limited and unreliable so a water maker is almost essential when cruising north of Broome for any length of time.
It is the volume of water that a clutch driven desalinator can deliver in a short period of time that appeals to us however we are keen to talk with other cruisers about their experiences with all types of water makers. We have a tech guy speaking with a Volvo rep about the practicalities of fitting an Australian made water maker by Citor to the 30 HP Volvo. It will require a special bracket to fit the unit but the capacity to make 90 litres an hour is attractive. We are just waiting for feedback and costings at this stage. We will keep you all posted.