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Old 13-08-2017, 23:06   #196
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney, Australia, Cruising Greece in the summer.
Boat: FP Lucia 40, Hull #22
Posts: 431
Re: Engines

As your research includes water senders I will add a bit.
The Wema 180 Ohm water (and black water) senders have a metric thread that fits the thread moulded into the FP tank. Nice and easy fitting. The 240 Ohm has a BSP (I think) thread which does NOT. If you want to fit a 240 Ohm sender to the water or black water tank you will need to get the Wema adaptor collar, cut a hole and fasten it with the 6 bolts. The sender then screws into the collar.
I found out the hard way!

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Old 07-06-2018, 12:42   #197
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: La Conner, WA USA
Boat: Mahe 36
Posts: 79
Re: Engines

Hi all, just skimmed this thread and I may have missed it but did not see a correction to the cooling water inlets on the drive leg.
There are seven holes not six. The seventh is located at the bottom of the leg and is larger ( about 9/16”). It allowed a long shank drill bit, 18”, to act as a roto rooter to clean growth (muscles in my case) out as well as rinsing the effluent out after cleaning.

The link to Speed Seal for the raw water pump is a lifesaver for me. My port engine is darn hard to access but the stbd One is snuggled up to the calorifier (which is installed upside down to access thermostat) and takes a cross between an orangutan and a ferret to access.

Things maybe I can contribute...
Just discovered I need a new #2 injector feed tube. Volvo = $88 + shipping. Am gambling $25 that the Perkins 403 series is the same engine that Volvo marinizes as the D1-30. Bleed off manifold Volvo = $330 vs <$100. Injectors $110 vs $28 vs $24 for Kubota. Wondering what other service items are comparable.

Been chasing a very stubborn fuel smell and traced it to a small weep at the nipple of the fuel bleed off manifold. Ultimately replaced from tank via removal of stbd berth plywood wall. Replaced all heater duct fo Espar D4 at same time. Replaced original 30mm stainless single wall flex exhaust and inline muffler with new double wall 30mm plus the cutest all ss 30mm in out muffler (ebay @ $30). Quieter, too. Hint: the ID of the double wall flex is about 29mm. I slid a long impact socket inside as a mandrill and carefully peeled the tube to enlarge it. Worked great.

Replaced the three house batteries port side @ 270 ah total with 3x120 ah group 31’s. VMAX Tank MR137. Discovered that the pos and neg were reversed and needed modify the straps that tie the bank to the electrical system. Never thought to ask the tech guys if there was an option. Not cheap but added effectively added a fourth battery for free.

Anyone know any option for the bottom seals in the 130S-B sail drive? Just spent $1300 for replacing both sides (the haul out was extra) and can do it at low tide with a couple of Allen wrenches, a 24mm socket, an axe, a rock and some driftwood. I was expecting something really sophisticated.

Last, does anybody clean what looks like a water filter, 4”diameter milky plastic screw top container in the raw water inlet side of the raw water pump? If so, what do you do?

Phew, Martyn

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Old 16-06-2018, 17:03   #198
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: La Conner, WA USA
Boat: Mahe 36
Posts: 79
Re: Engines

Help. Anyone know the torque for the nut that secures the fuel bleed off manifold to the injector?
Iíve been fighting a very stubborn fuel leak at #1 and 2 cylinders. Replaced the squish washers under the manifold and torqued dry to about 60nm (700 inch lbs) and they leaked. Removed , cleaned and torqued lubed to same and leak is less but still there.

Cannot find a specific reference for it on line.

Also, anyone know the applicable Perkins engine for the D1-30-B? Looks to be a 403 series and likely an HH but anyone know?

Help appreciated.

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Old 22-10-2018, 13:24   #199
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Posts: 6
Re: Engines


Any way you could send me the document about hacking the D2-40 inlet to accept a Fram washable filter?

my email is


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