Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 06-08-2014, 18:12   #151
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,717
Re: Engines

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seastream View Post
It makes no mention regarding the threading I see on the pump shaft engine facing side.
The thread on the pump shaft is for the bolt an washer that hold the gear on the shaft.
__________________

__________________
Cotemar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2014, 18:28   #152
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Got it, tnx. Found below pix in part B of the manual:
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	seawater pump removed.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	198.7 KB
ID:	86265  
__________________

__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-08-2014, 12:40   #153
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Mahes: I spent two hours today trying to remove/replace my port seawater pump and am about to throw in the towel. I don't know how Jef (Miss Poes?) did it without removing the engine mount. In my case, the bolt in question (nearest the engine block at bottom) can only be backed out so far before it contacts the engine mount, then can't be moved further. He has hull 88, I have 91 so I'd think our Volvo D1-20 engines are the same. I'd pull the engine mount (if I could figure how to support the engine) but fear damage by disturbing the engine/transmission/saildrive alignment. I'd rebuild the pump in place but there's barely space for shrimp in front of the engine. Sheesh.
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-08-2014, 20:04   #154
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Addendum: Once I've resolved this situation, I've considered replacing the two 'machine screws' closest to the engine block with a smaller diameter bolt/nut/washer assembly, with the bolthead at the front of the engine, to facilitate future removal. Thoughts?
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 29-08-2014, 11:25   #155
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Got the pump out! Now to transfer the gear from the old pump to the new. How have those of you that have changed the entire pump held the pump shaft from moving so you could remove/replace the gear and nut assembly?
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 30-08-2014, 02:48   #156
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Auckland/Mediterranean
Boat: Orana 44
Posts: 37
Re: Engines

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seastream View Post
Addendum: Once I've resolved this situation, I've considered replacing the two 'machine screws' closest to the engine block with a smaller diameter bolt/nut/washer assembly, with the bolthead at the front of the engine, to facilitate future removal. Thoughts?
At the beginning of the season I thought I would check the raw water cooling rate on my VP D2-40 engines very carefully - after 6 seasons use I have had no problems so far. Starboard engine 12litres/min, the port 5 litres/min. Spend a couple of days checking everything else. It had to be either the sail drive intake or the pump. Decided to try the pump first as I thought it would be easier to swap the pumps around then re-plumbing the raw water supply. In trying to do this I found that both water pumps needed the seals changing. Now this seems a common problem on these D2/D1 engines. Why do these pump seals last less than 800 hours, thats only 20000 miles in a car. Water pumps on cars last much longer.

Yes removing the water pump seems simple enough in theory until you try. On the D2-40 engine, VP have just added a "box" which contains the water pump "gears into the engine drive". The 4 bolts that hold the pump onto the box are threaded into welded on external nuts. As the bolt is 10mm longer some of the bolt's thread is exposed. I removed the port pump no problem. However the starboard pump bolts would not undo. This was because they were totally corroded. To cut a long story short I managed to removed 2 okay. The third bolt sheared. I was careful using a 1/4 socket drive and I don't believe I could have removed it. I then spend several hours cutting the welded nut off in a very confined space using every tool imaginable. Once done I have replaced it with a SS bolt and nyloc nut. After that I gave up trying to remove the pump. The fourth bolt I have left to the end of the season.

TIP - grease the ends of all these bolts to keep the corrision at bay.

Fortunately the problem was the sail drive water supply. I rigged a raw water feed from the port rear head intake and now I get 12 lites/min.
As the boat was in the water I couldn't check the stop cock. Last year I helped a fellow cruiser remove the VP saildrive in order to change the large main water rubber seal. In doing so the saildrive is split into two and we found a large marine growth, bigger than the raw water supply passages beginning to block the water supply. So it is important to visibly check the water passages in the saildrive whilst it is apart. This issue has not been mentioned in any of the articles I have read which explain how to change this seal.
__________________
Orana 44
The Med
oranaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2014, 04:06   #157
Registered User
 
Jef & Marin, Netherlands's Avatar

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Liveaboard
Boat: Switch 51 #10
Posts: 452
Re: Engines

Seastream,
To remove the nut you need to either hold the shaft or hold the gear.
I blocked the gear, but I do n ot remember exactly how.
There are some option:
- Use very big pliers, use strong thin strips of wood between the beaks of the pliers and the gear teeth. I used old fashioned wooden pegs, split in two.
- Use a good old filter remover, use car or motor cycle inner tyre or similar pieces of rubber between the tool and the teeth of the gear.
- Alternatively, you can use a VERY BIG screwdriver on the slot in the front of the shaft of the pump. But you should really take care that the screwdriver touches only where it does not deformn the shaft at the edges, otherwise you will damage the seals when you shift them over this part of the shaft.
With a new pump this is obviously not the preferred method.

If you have the nut off (hard due to the loctite thread lock) you need to remove the remaining thread lock with a sharp pointed tool and a small hammer.
Then you need a 2- or 3-leg puller to pull the gear of the conical pump shaft. Obviously taking care not to damage the thread on the pump shaft, for instance by keeping the nut on the thread of the pump shaft.

Good workmanship is the ability to apply huge force without causing damage..... Is this the correct way to say this in English?
__________________
Jef & Marin, Netherlands is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2014, 18:29   #158
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Jef: Thanks for the response. I did use pliers, rubber strips and socket wrench but once I realized I'd need a gear puller to take the gear off the shaft I took the pumps to the marina shop and asked them to swap the gear over to the new pump. Can you (or anyone else here) recommend a part number and source to purchase an appropriate size gear puller so I can do this when my starboard seawater pump fails?
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2014, 19:53   #159
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Regarding cleaning the primary fuel filter and replacing the secondary filter: Is there any pressure to be relieved from the system or do I just shut off the fuel at the tank, then unscrew the primary filters for cleaning (filling bowls with fuel before reinstalling) and replace the secondary filters? After that do I just prime the system at the engine via the manual fuel pump, bleeding via a partially unscrewed bleed screw?
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2014, 09:02   #160
Registered User

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SW Florida
Boat: FP Belize, 43' - Dot Dun
Posts: 3,425
Re: Engines

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seastream View Post
Regarding cleaning the primary fuel filter and replacing the secondary filter: Is there any pressure to be relieved from the system or do I just shut off the fuel at the tank, then unscrew the primary filters for cleaning (filling bowls with fuel before reinstalling) and replace the secondary filters? After that do I just prime the system at the engine via the manual fuel pump, bleeding via a partially unscrewed bleed screw?
No pressure in the system.

Fill the filter bowls, I've never had to prime. A little air will work itself out.
__________________
DotDun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-09-2014, 19:13   #161
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

Got it, tnx. Another Q: What's the ID of the fuel hoses that pass thru the primary water/fuel separators/filters? I tried looking on the hoses but couldn't get a good look due to their location. I want to purchase 'barrel' barbs so that in an emergency I could bypass the primary filters. The secondary (on engine) filters would protect the engine in such a case.
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-11-2014, 09:21   #162
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1
Re: Volvo Penta part # 3809924 Washable Air Filter

The Document of the whole process is to big to post here (Lots of Pictures), so send me a private e-mail and I can send you a copy.

Dear Mark,

This winter I have to change the air filter and spotted your solution. Is the document your reffering to still available? Would help me a lot, thanks.

Brs Eric
__________________
EricHol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2014, 18:29   #163
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines...heat exchanger access!

All:

I have Volvo D1-20 engines. I ran aground today in the ICW in GA. Must have sucked lots of sand thru the seawater intake getting loose as the engine exhausts were steaming (even at 2000 rpm) afterwards. On closer inspection, this clearly destroyed the seawater pump impellers as I found most of the impeller vanes jammed at the inlet of the starboard heat exchanger. Q: Can I remove the inlet/outlet plates (held by three hex head bolts) on the heat exchanger to better see/clean it, or will this unleash springs, ball bearings, flying monkeys, etc.? I'm stuck in Brunswick, GA whilst I source impellers, then r/r the pumps. Ironically, I performed this process before we left NH in October.
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-01-2015, 14:45   #164
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Pierce, FL
Boat: Fountaine-Pajot Mahe 36
Posts: 123
Re: Engines

All set with the heat exchanger. Another Q: Where on the engine are the engine zincs (if any) located?
__________________
Seastream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2015, 09:58   #165
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Norheimsund, Western Norway
Boat: FP Mahe 36 #108 "Caramba"
Posts: 104
Images: 2
Re: Engines

The Volvo D1's have no internal engine zink, only on the propeller and drive.

The drive and the engine are electrically separated, and I've been told you should be able measure at least 600 ohms between them.
__________________

__________________
Edmund is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
mahe 36

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engines Powerful Enough? 1960cjj Seamanship & Boat Handling 3 08-06-2009 06:39
Remanufactured Engines PDEVOLEJR Powered Boats 10 21-07-2008 13:30
Engines for sale never monday Classifieds Archive 0 14-10-2007 18:24
Two Engines Jackstee Multihull Sailboats 8 31-01-2007 09:26
Search engines Gisle Forum News & Announcements 0 14-03-2003 19:20



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 19:42.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.