Mahe 36: Engines

[RJW]

Originally Posted by MKB53

Wierd problem with the hour guages, never come across that before.

I have a problem in that the clear plastic on my guages is going slowly opaque and it is very hard to read the hours. I tried cleaning inside and out but it is actually opaque not dirty.

Anyone have any special remedy for this?

Cheers
Martin

Martin
When you cleaned inside did you find the plastic lens was in two layers. Mine were and there was condensation between the two layers which looked opaque. The layers were a tight fit and pulled apart.

Roger

[want2cruise]

does anyone know how to identify the exact model of the Volvo Penta D1-20 engines? in many cases it does not matter, but some parts are specific to the different series (ie D1-20A, D1-20B, D1-20F). my Mahe is a 2008 model (hull38), but I guess engines could be different even witihn same production years...

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by want2cruise

does anyone know how to identify the exact model of the Volvo Penta D1-20 engines? in many cases it does not matter, but some parts are specific to the different series (ie D1-20A, D1-20B, D1-20F). my Mahe is a 2008 model (hull38), but I guess engines could be different even witihn same production years...

The Sail drive model # and Engine model # are on a black and siver sticker on the top of the engine.

There is also a Perkins sticker on the front of the engine that may help.

[want2cruise]

clearly your engines have been maintained much better than mine! I can not find any of these stickers on my engines and it seems they were removed at one stage:-( all I have are the actual engine serial numbers but even with that my local VP dealers cannot tell me my exact model. when it comes to any spare parts or technical knowledge I sure am jealous of anyone having their boat in the US... my solution: I bought a complete new engine which hopefully will reach me in the coming 6 weeks :-)

[Cotemar]

want2cruise,
Did you just replace the Volvo Penta D1-20 or did you go with a D1-30F ?

[want2cruise]

i replaced the D1-20 mainly because I got a fairly good deal and I did not think it would be good to have a different engine in each hull. the old engine will still be good for spare parts. an engine overhaul here would have cost me more than the new engine, so it was an easy decision.

[Cotemar]

Where you are a spare engine will be a very good thing. Should be an easy DIY engine swap.

[MKB53]

Hi Roger

Thanks for the tip on the lens. I will take it off again and check.
I hope it survives a second removal - the little tangs were hard to get out and a couple were worse for wear afterwards. More patience is called for!

[Seastream]

I want to replace my serpentine belts. How do I reach the front of the engines? Bend over the block and stand on my head?

Bob

[Seastream]

Figured out how to access the belts from behind the engine. Not easy, but doable. In other news, while out today a steady tone went off at the helm apparently for the starboard engine. It only sounded a couple times for a few seconds. Engine rpms ~1800, had been running for about an hour. No icons appeared on the digital display. I checked exhaust water flow and in the engine compartments; all appeared normal. Suggestions?

[Seastream]

Cotemar: I just bought a water pump for the D1-20. The engine side of it has a threaded shaft. How does it unthread/rethread from/to the engine for removal/reinstallation?

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Seastream

Cotemar: I just bought a water pump for the D1-20. The engine side of it has a threaded shaft. How does it unthread/rethread from/to the engine for removal/reinstallation?

I have VP D1-30 engines, so mine will be different. You may have to get your hands on a D1-20 Workshop Manual to review their water pump install process.
You have two pumps. A Coolant Pump and a Seawater Pump.

[Seastream]

Understood. I'm referring to the raw seawater pump. I'll have to beg/borrow/steal/buy (if necessary) the shop manual or that section. I don't want to damage the engine by removing/reinstalling the pump improperly.

[Cotemar]

Originally Posted by Seastream

Understood. I'm referring to the raw seawater pump. I'll have to beg/borrow/steal/buy (if necessary) the shop manual or that section. I don't want to damage the engine by removing/reinstalling the pump improperly.

Oh, then just pull your current seawater pump. Remove the gear on it and place it on your new pump. Then re-install it.

[Seastream]

Turns out I'd downloaded the service manual previously. The procedure says to close the seacock, remove the pump hoses, four mounting bolts and pump, install new pump, O ring, bolts and hoses. It makes no mention regarding the threading I see on the pump shaft engine facing side. Jef is right, the bolt pattern/access is hideous. The two bolts nearest the engine block are inserted from the rear and engage threaded holes in the pump body mounting flange; the two bolts opposite pass thru unthreaded holes and engage nuts on the front facing side of the pump. The design engineers should be neutered.