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Old 18-05-2010, 18:15   #61
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WAGO 222 LEVER-NUT compact connectors

Mahe’s

I have notice these little electrical connectors used on the Hot water tank and in both the 110 volt and 12 volt instrument panels. I really liked how simple they were to use and to re-install when some electrical circuit needed testing or replacing.
I wanted to buy some to have on hand for installing new electronics also.

You can purchase them on eBay, so I have some in my electrical spares kit now.

Here is some info on them, so you know what they are when you least expect it.

WAGO 222 LEVER-NUT compact connectors can make new electrical connections inside the Helm control panel, in the Nav. Station power panel and in the Instrument network panel behind the refrigerator. The LEVER-NUT is suited to marine applications where space is at a premium.

The 222 LEVER-NUT is UL/CNL listed up to 600V/20A and can accommodate both solid and stranded conductors ranging in size from AWG #12-28 in the same unit. They provides fast, easy and maintenance-free connections and a maximum temperature rating of 105°C ensures that the 222-412 will reliably meet the requirements for a wide range of applications. LEVER-NUTS protects users against electrical shocks and employs an integral test point for testing/trouble-shooting a circuit. Splicing with LEVER-NUT compact connectors is a simple, tool-free process: lift the orange lever, insert the stripped conductor (check strip length with a built-in length guide) and lower the lever.

Designed to eliminate loose wires as a result of vibration and temperature cycling, as well as provide a highly reliable, corrosion-resistant, and maintenance-free connections.

Mahe’s use all three of these models.
222-412 Two-conductor splice
222-413 Three-conductor splice
222-415 Five-conductor splice

Mark
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Old 19-05-2010, 02:58   #62
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Charging

Maybe a summary on good battery charging of the original batteries is useful:
- Shore power: Charge with your charger in the "D" setting, see post nr. 50
- Engine alternator: Your batteries will not be fully charged due to too low boost voltage.
- Solar power: you can get full charge if you purchase a solar regulator that can deliver higher than standard boost voltage, 14.8 in stead of 14.4 V, and higher float voltage, 13.8 ~ 14.0 in stead of 13.4 V. The one that Cotemar has installed, is OK, there are some others.

Advantage of Honda and other generators is: you can get a full charge by using 110/230 V. Disadvantage is the limit to 40A of the mains charger.

A good solution would be to connect a smart charger to the alternator, but this requires access to the field coil of the alternator. I have asked Volvo Penta whether it is possible to connect a smart external regulator. Their asnwer was that although it is technically possible, the possibilities to connect this reliably is limited, and they advice against is.
But maybe I am going to try anyway at some spare moment?

Jef
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Old 19-05-2010, 16:37   #63
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Anchor Watch System

Mahe’s

Added a new 12 volt plug for our Anchor Watch system on the Stb.State room head board.

This project will take about 1 hour. Here's the steps.

1) Drill 1” hole for standard 12 volt plug
2) Install new 12 volt plug
3) Run the wires from your existing reading light above

The Anchor Watch System is an iPag pocket PC with a Navman GPS sleeve
With Maptech maps. Has all the same maps and routes as my Navigation laptop and Garmin Chartplotter at the helm.

Mark
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Old 20-05-2010, 00:17   #64
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Wind generator

Has anyone of you installed a wind generator on your Mahe, and found a good location for it?
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Old 20-09-2010, 20:17   #65
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Carry spare ATC (automotive) fuses aboard

Mahes,

Just a reminder to carry spare ATC (automotive) fuses aboard.

You have two fuse boxes. One is under your port bunk on the left.
The other is in the cabinet behind your refrigerator.
You will need the six rated amps as shown.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Type_____Dimensions L x W x H______Ampere ratings
Regular___19.1 x 5.1 x 18.5 mm_______5A,10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, 30A

ATC style fuse color-coding system
-----------------------------
Orange/tan___5 amp
Red________10 amp
Aqua/blue___15 amp
Yellow______20 amp
Clear/natural_25 amp
Green_______30 amp

Mark
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Old 30-09-2010, 11:22   #66
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Hello Mark.
What a coincidence! My starboard hull bilge pump does not work so today I decided to check the fuses. Took off the cover and was in shock!The two bottom fuses were completely corroded, I mean completely pulverized...somehow moisture got in this thing.Mark it is the 3rd pictures ,it has 10 fuses.I don't think I need the 2 bottom ones right now.Do you think I can find the same one?
Thank you for your input
JC.
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Old 30-09-2010, 11:40   #67
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JC,

Are you talking about the Fuse box behind the refigerator ?
I believe those 2 bottom fuses are 25 Amp. You can buy them at any autoparts store.

Mark
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Old 30-09-2010, 11:56   #68
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JC
If you are talking about the fuse panel behind the frig. the bottom 2 are for an electric head and are not in use if you don't have the electric heads. Since I don't have electric heads, I used one for installing a fan in the starboard head, replaced the 25 amp fuse with a 5 amp. In one of the small books that came with the boat is the layout of the 2 electric panels and what they feed, it is near the back of the book. As Mark stated they are off the shelf auto fuses available anywhere.
Call me if you need help with this.

Scott
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Old 30-09-2010, 12:18   #69
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No Mark I am not talking about the fuses.I am talking the slot where the fuses go in which means I will have to replace the whole fuses panel or whatever you call that.It is the 3rd picture on your thread.Can I find the same thing or do I need to install something else.
JC.
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Old 30-09-2010, 13:50   #70
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JC,

I think that “fuse circuit panel” is custom from FP.

1) Order a replacement from FP
2) Maybe you could solder in a few ATC Fuse holders (Autoparts store).
3) As Scott said those bottom two fuses are 25 amps used for electric toilets which you probably do not have, so this will not be an issue other than looking bad.

Mark
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Old 30-09-2010, 14:00   #71
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Adding a smart regulator - access to alternator field windings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jef & Marin, Netherlands View Post
Maybe a summary on good battery charging of the original batteries is useful:
- Shore power: Charge with your charger in the "D" setting, see post nr. 50
- Engine alternator: Your batteries will not be fully charged due to too low boost voltage.
- Solar power: you can get full charge if you purchase a solar regulator that can deliver higher than standard boost voltage, 14.8 in stead of 14.4 V, and higher float voltage, 13.8 ~ 14.0 in stead of 13.4 V. The one that Cotemar has installed, is OK, there are some others.

Advantage of Honda and other generators is: you can get a full charge by using 110/230 V. Disadvantage is the limit to 40A of the mains charger.

A good solution would be to connect a smart charger to the alternator, but this requires access to the field coil of the alternator. I have asked Volvo Penta whether it is possible to connect a smart external regulator. Their asnwer was that although it is technically possible, the possibilities to connect this reliably is limited, and they advice against is.
But maybe I am going to try anyway at some spare moment?

Jef

Hi All,

With reference to fitting a smart alternator regulator - I have 2 Sterling Digital regulators fitted to my Orana with D2-40 engines. The alternator fitted on D2-40 & D1-30 are 115 amp Mitsubishis, I think the smaller engines are the same?. If so access to the field coils is simple. On the body of the alternator there is a black sliding panel which is removed. Underneath there are two smaller clips which are removed and then its possible to solder directly to the brushes. These alternators are negative field types and on my boat the front connection is the one you need ( identification is an essential step in the installation). If you are interested in this mod I will try and post further information including photos later when I have proper internet connections.
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Old 30-09-2010, 18:50   #72
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Orana

Sorry to hijack this for a second but Oranaman where is your boat in the med?
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Old 01-10-2010, 10:32   #73
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Mark.
Thank you as always for your help with technical problems.Fp is sending me a replacement.I will post a picture once I get it out,it is unreal.
JC.
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:34   #74
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Oranaman, what size battery bank and what power charger do you have? On our Orana we have a house bank of 840 amps (deep cell) and a 60 amp charger which isn't doing its job properly... so considering options to fix that.
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Old 11-10-2010, 10:25   #75
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Smart regulator

Oranaman, thanks for your info on the smart reulator.
The D1-20 of the Mahe also has a 115 Amp Mitsubishi alternator.
I am much interested into your smart regulator. Which model is it from Sterling? If you have pictures or diagrams that's great as well.
Thanks in advance,
Jef
p.s. no hurry, this is a winter job for me.
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