Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 18-10-2016, 18:50   #46
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Dual purpose Bow Cleats

Helia 44 Owners,

The 14 inch factory cleats are too far back to properly attach mooring lines to, because you have to snake the mooring lines through the seagull striker and gib furling line.

Some have pulled the lines around the outside of the bows only to find in a short amount of time that the mooring lines ride up over the bow and pull on the bow seat supports and the lines also chafe the outside of the hulls.

I have added a few dual purpose bow cleats to make it much easier to pick-up a mooring.
They will also be used as an attachment point with a soft shackles and blocks for a downwind sail.

The cleats are 12 inch Vetus Taurus (TAURUS04 )made from 316 Stainless Steel.
They were purchase from JamesTown Distributors for $74 each.
The cleat base is 6.3 x 2. The bolts are M16 x 50mm long.

The backing plate is AL 6061 aluminum 3/8 thick x 8 Long x 4 Wide.
The backing plates were purchased from Online metals for $11 each.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	414.2 KB
ID:	133141   Click image for larger version

Name:	2.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	425.4 KB
ID:	133142  

Click image for larger version

Name:	3.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	477.7 KB
ID:	133143   Click image for larger version

Name:	4.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	312.0 KB
ID:	133144  

Click image for larger version

Name:	5.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	391.6 KB
ID:	133145   Click image for larger version

Name:	6.jpg
Views:	149
Size:	405.4 KB
ID:	133146  

Click image for larger version

Name:	7.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	344.8 KB
ID:	133147   Click image for larger version

Name:	8.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	398.4 KB
ID:	133148  

Click image for larger version

Name:	9.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	363.6 KB
ID:	133149  
__________________

__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 18-10-2016, 19:04   #47
Registered User

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: SW Florida
Boat: FP Belize, 43' - Dot Dun
Posts: 3,235
Re: Anchor and Windlass

We added a 2nd bridle attached the same as the first. We stow it by pulling it around the beam and clipping it either to the net or the gull striker stanchion. This 'mooring' bridle is shorter than the anchor bridle and rigged to keep mooring balls away from the hulls. It stops the mooring balls from grinding a hull when current and wind are out of sync with each other.
__________________

__________________
DotDun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-10-2016, 19:05   #48
Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New England
Boat: lagoon 380 s2
Posts: 388
Re: Dual purpose Bow Cleats

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cotemar View Post
Helia 44 Owners,

The 14 inch factory cleats are too far back to properly attach mooring lines to, because you have to snake the mooring lines through the seagull striker and gib furling line.

Some have pulled the lines around the outside of the bows only to find in a short amount of time that the mooring lines ride up over the bow and pull on the bow seat supports and the lines also chafe the outside of the hulls.

I have added a few dual purpose bow cleats to make it much easier to pick-up a mooring.
They will also be used as an attachment point with a soft shackles and blocks for a downwind sail.

The cleats are 12 inch Vetus Taurus (TAURUS04 )made from 316 Stainless Steel.
They were purchase from JamesTown Distributors for $74 each.
The cleat base is 6.3 x 2. The bolts are M16 x 50mm long.

The backing plate is AL 6061 aluminum 3/8 thick x 8 Long x 4 Wide.
The backing plates were purchased from Online metals for $11 each.
did you do this yourself?

did you add any fiberglass to reinforce, or just the AL plates?

My cleats are not as far back, they are under the seat. Still, I should either put a chock on and lead the line from there, or your idea of just putting a cleat on the very front. Do you get any chafe on the boat on the mooring or bridle with this location?
__________________
jbinbi is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 20-10-2016, 08:03   #49
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Re: Dual purpose Bow Cleats

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbinbi View Post
did you do this yourself?

did you add any fiberglass to reinforce, or just the AL plates?

My cleats are not as far back, they are under the seat. Still, I should either put a chock on and lead the line from there, or your idea of just putting a cleat on the very front. Do you get any chafe on the boat on the mooring or bridle with this location?
Jbinbi,

We do all our own work and upgrades on our boat.

We bedded the aluminum plates with Marine-Tex Epoxy.
We bedded the cleats with clear Boat Life - Life Seal

This bow location works perfect for any mooring bridal.

Whats also nice is when you just take a lunch time mooring (short amount of time) an attach only 1 mooring line to 1 bow you do not have to worry about the mooring line pulling on your bow seat supports.

We used the large 3/8 inch thick plate, because of the upward forces on the cleat when we use a down wind sail.

The bows are very thick an re-enforced as they need to be strong for attaching the seagull striker.
__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 20-10-2016, 08:21   #50
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 1
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Cotemar,
We just returned from seeing our new Helia in St. Thomas for the first time. I have been following many of your modifications and appreciate your advice. We are considering adding a cleat as you suggest. My question is if the 12 inch cleat is large enough to tie a mooring line on twice in the event that you don't have a spliced eye on one end.
Thanks,
s/v Counting Stars
__________________
Devocean16 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-10-2016, 08:45   #51
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Devocean 16,

Wellcome to the CF. We are always glad to meet new FP owners and share ideas.

These 12 inch Vetus Taurus cleats are the largest strongest cleats on the market right now.
They will do everything that the factory cleats will do and also allow you to attach your down wind sail.
__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 22-03-2017, 01:57   #52
Registered User
 
StarryHorizons's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: USA
Boat: Fountaine Pajot Helia
Posts: 167
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Hello everyone.

Several months ago, our chain counter for our Quick Dylan windlass quit working. Since we were in the middle of the South Pacific at the time, I decided to wait until we were in New Zealand to mess with it.

After taking apart the upper unit, I discovered that the magnet in the gypsy had completely rusted away. Figuring that would be an easy fix, I used a substitute magnet to test, only to find that the sensor had gone bad as well. This was confirmed with a continuity test in the presence of the test magnet.

While back in the States I bought a replacement Quick Sensor kit, and upon my return to SH tested the continuity of the new sensor and bingo, it worked. Now all I had to do was try to take apart the lower unit and get access to the old sensor. Unfortunately, that part didn't go so well.

It was a major pain in the ass to get the nuts off the bolts, but I eventually managed it, only to find that the lower unit was still unwilling to come off. I've read through the Quick manual multiple times but I don't see anything obvious that should also be removed.

Can anyone help??
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Nuts Removed.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	415.4 KB
ID:	143689   Click image for larger version

Name:	Bottom of lower.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	411.0 KB
ID:	143690  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Upper Unit.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	420.1 KB
ID:	143691  
StarryHorizons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22-03-2017, 04:53   #53
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarryHorizons View Post
I've read through the Quick manual multiple times but I don't see anything obvious that should also be removed.

Can anyone help??
David,

I suspect that it may just be stubborn, as you have removed the 4 bolts holding it together.

The only other thing that is giving resistance is the vertical shaft.
Clean the shaft as good as you can as it has to slide all the way through the gearbox for removal.
If you have access to some PB Blaster and spray it on the shaft, it may free that shaft up for you.

You may have to use a pry bar on the flange to deck joint to loosen any silicon bond that maybe there.

If you pry the flange to deck joint to loosen and hit the bottom of the vertical shaft with a Soft Face Dead Blow Hammer you may see it start to loosen.
.
.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Quick Dylan DH1512D Vertical Windlass1.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	90.3 KB
ID:	143692   Click image for larger version

Name:	PB Blaster.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	81.4 KB
ID:	143693  

Click image for larger version

Name:	small pry bar.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	23.9 KB
ID:	143694   Click image for larger version

Name:	Dead Blow Hammer.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	83.7 KB
ID:	143695  

__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 23-03-2017, 13:41   #54
Registered User
 
StarryHorizons's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: USA
Boat: Fountaine Pajot Helia
Posts: 167
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, no amount of Corrosion X, prying, or jolts to the vertical shaft seemed to make a difference and I ran out of time in the marina.

I've got an email in to Quick about the issue and if they come back with anything else, I'll post it here.
StarryHorizons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-03-2017, 13:54   #55
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Saint Thomas, USVI
Boat: Beneteau Oceanis 40
Posts: 241
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Unfortunately what you are likely to find is that salt water got under the top assembly down into the top of the transmission and the whole mess is seized. I just replaced the one on the Beneteau. You will likely have to take wood wedges and drive them between the bottom of the deck and the transmission to get it apart. Do not be surprised if the transmission is shot. This is a real problem with these. The good news is you have the newer version with the rubber rain coat on top of the transmission. The bad news it is still stuck.

Good luck Jay
__________________
captainjay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-03-2017, 14:47   #56
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Re: Anchor and Windlass

David,

OK, lets try a different approach.

1) Can you try to use 2 pry bars and pry the Windlass from above the deck.
If you apply even pressure on both pry bars, it will act as a pulley puller, pulling up.

2) If you can get a hold of a large pulley puller, then you can attach it below to pull the gearbox down.

Boaters use these pullers to pull off very large propellers, so someone may lend or rent you one in a local boatyard.
.
.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Large pulley puller.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	16.5 KB
ID:	143799  
__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 23-03-2017, 15:40   #57
Moderator
 
a64pilot's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Albany Ga.
Boat: Island Packet 38
Posts: 14,768
Anchor and Windlass

I am a huge fan of Corrosion -X myself, but as a penetrating oil, it won't hold a card to PB Blaster, get some if you can.
__________________
a64pilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24-03-2017, 07:37   #58
Registered User

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Saint Thomas, USVI
Boat: Beneteau Oceanis 40
Posts: 241
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Quote:
Originally Posted by a64pilot View Post
I am a huge fan of Corrosion -X myself, but as a penetrating oil, it won't hold a card to PB Blaster, get some if you can.
If you can't get PB then mix equal parts acetone and transmission fluid. It is a pretty good substitute.
__________________
captainjay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-03-2017, 13:05   #59
Registered User
 
StarryHorizons's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: USA
Boat: Fountaine Pajot Helia
Posts: 167
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Thanks for all the helpful replies. We've left the marina and are back at anchor for the time being so I'm going to hold off on this project for a bit.

I did hear back from the QuickUSA technical support and he basically advised exactly what everyone is saying. It will just need quite a bit of patience and persuasion to come free.

He did also mention that the proper way for the sensor to be wired would be to have it run through one of the spare holes in the gearbox flange. If the holes don't align, he said a hole could be drilled. So perhaps for those of you with windlasses that aren't yet stuck in place, it may be worth removing the gearbox and fixing this so you don't risk a premature sensor failure.
StarryHorizons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 25-03-2017, 13:36   #60
Registered User
 
Cotemar's Avatar

Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: FP, Helia 44 Evo
Posts: 5,516
Re: Anchor and Windlass

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarryHorizons View Post
QuickUSA did also mention that the proper way for the sensor to be wired would be to have it run through one of the spare holes in the gearbox flange. If the holes don't align, he said a hole could be drilled. So perhaps for those of you with windlasses that aren't yet stuck in place, it may be worth removing the gearbox and fixing this so you don't risk a premature sensor failure.
Dave,

Glad QuickUSA told you that.
Will have to add it to my to do list before it's to late.
Will need to buy a spare sensor also.
__________________

__________________
Cotemar is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
anchor, windlass

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:30.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.