Teak Leaking

[scoobert]

i am wondering, how does someone read what is not there?

are you still really expecting to buy a 40ft-45ft blue water boat for under $20k that's in perfect condition?

you show me where i said this.
no, not perfect condition, not near perfect, not a TLC boat.
a boat that i can put time and money into that is worth actual money when done.
EG a $130,000 boat that needs a lot of work. i have found two so far that i was too slow on.

my exact words...

it can need engine work, and can need sails, as long as the structure is very sound and in good shape. i do not mind putting some money into it over time.
i could even put another $20,000 into it before an ocean crossing, and i would be ok with that.

if the price is up to 30,000 it would be ok, but the closer to 20 the better.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by scoobert

i am wondering, how does someone read what is not there?

I'm sorry if I was out of line and have you mixed up with someone else. It just seems I remember that you asked on a previous thread that you were looking to only spend $20k on a 40-45 ft blue water cruiser. If I'm mistaken, sorry.

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

I'm sorry if I was out of line and have you mixed up with someone else. It just seems I remember that you asked on a previous thread that you were looking to only spend $20k on a 40-45 ft blue water cruiser. If I'm mistaken, sorry.

honest mistake, just makes me sound stupid if i thought that i could get one in perfect condition for that.

[scoobert]

here is a thought, what if i were to scrape off the teak, and coat it with some type of fiberglass? you know, like the other 10,000 45' boats?

[zeehag]

scoobert--mine was done that way--it fixes the problem. unfortunately i notice t he loss of weight in my formosa....but many do not notice nor care, as long as the teak is removed.

[scoobert]

i am a non-sailor, this may sound stupid if i was. what does weight up top do that is positive for the boat?

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by scoobert

i am new to teak.
on a fiberglass boat, isn't teak laid over fiberglass?
so if they say "the teak is leaking" then in reality the fiberglass has a hole, right?

Originally Posted by scoobert

thank you. before purchase i will be removing inside part to determine if the fiberglass has delaminated.

Originally Posted by scoobert

they said they redid the calking and it still leaked.
they suspected the screws.

Originally Posted by scoobert

so if the deck is cored it would require teak removal, followed by fiberglass removal, removal of the core, replacement of the core, fiberglass, teak?
of course only in the leaking areas.

Originally Posted by scoobert

sounds like fun. i better get a surface drill press.
yes inside, quite a bit.
are the tayana's typically wood cored?

Originally Posted by scoobert

yeah, there are a few severely damaged ceiling pieces, i will be asking to remove those.
i will make the purchase dependent on the condition underneath and will have written my offer down.

Originally Posted by scoobert

here is a thought, what if i were to scrape off the teak, and coat it with some type of fiberglass? you know, like the other 10,000 45' boats?

Here are all your comments about the ordeal you are trying to take on....Have you considered passing on this nightmare and sterring away from teak decks? I know buying a boat can be emotional but try to see clearly if you can. If you're new to sailboats...this may not be the boat for you.

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Here are all your comments about the ordeal you are trying to take on....Have you considered passing on this nightmare and sterring away from teak decks? I know buying a boat can be emotional but try to see clearly if you can. If you're new to sailboats...this may not be the boat for you.

no, i am up for the challenge.
worst case i will sail to some far away country and pay them to do the job.
colombia, or catalina are the two i read on a thread, they had a 50' deteaked for $4000.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by scoobert

no, i am up for the challenge.
worst case i will sail to some far away country and pay them to do the job.
colombia, or catalina are the two i read on a thread, they had a 50' deteaked for $4000.

No offense but I think you are being unrealistic.

[SailPenelope]

I have a 1979 CT41 ketch with teak decks. I replaced all the caulk (long, slow, job but I wanted to do it), and eliminated most of the leaks. (They were slight, hard to trace down, well, impossible actually) Deck feels solid though I'm guessing there could be some core rot somewhere.

Prior to my ownership, deck was sanded more than it should have been. Some plugs have come out. I DO NOT want to drill any screws deeper......not worth the risk of penetrating the core. Instead, I'm going to do an experiment. Where screws are exposed (about 10% of them), I'm going to remove the screw entirely, fill with epoxy, and place a new bung (there will be room for it with the screw removed). I think, after 34 years, the deck's not going to need the screw in order to stay put. I'll let you know after the winter rains if this works........

[lancelot9898]

One question you asked that I can answer is that the deck of the Tayanas are balsa cored. You should go the the Tayana's owner's group for more detailed questions and answers. www.tognews@googlegroups.com

[muskoka]

Teak decking which is screwed to the deck will ultimately leak. Since this is the way most teak decks were installed, you'll probably have to rip up the teak and reinstall. You might be able to reuse the existing if it hasn't been sanded through.

The yard here typically rips up the deck, seals all the screw holes with epoxy and then glues the new teak decking to the fibreglass deck. If you're going for new teak, then get the boards rebated with the 5 or 6mm caulking gap to speed up the installation.

[Hudson Force]

I saw a referrence to a potential $20,000 repair in a post above, but as a long term DIY sailor, I see this differently. If you have a structurally functional fiberglass deck beneath the leaky teak, my choice would be to remove the teak and expoxy the ca 500 screw holes. This will likely leave you with approximately one dozen suspect areas about 3 feet by 2 feet on the deck where the core is soft. Maybe more, but likely fewer. These can be addressed over a long term one at a time for no more than $100 each with a "do it yourself" regimen. I've done this by using a rotary tool with a cutting wheel to remove the top laminate and digging out the rotten core. Then I epoxy a sheet of end balsa tiles on a cloth matrix, available at many marine supply outlets, on to the top of the inner laminate. After quicky coarse sanding the new balsa down to about a quarter inch below the deck final top I add layers of epoxy saturated matt and cloth, I fair the edges and finish. I use a quartz sand mix in a one part epoxy deck paint that masks the finish and matches true to the surroundings. Some try to replace the lifted top layer, but I do best with the new top laminate. I've completed four sections on my deck with an average of 6 square feet at a time. For someone who is among those that take on these tasks instead of putting money into a yard repair, such a fix can be completed for a total of about $1,500 instead of ten times this amount! Of course this is without assigning a monetary value to all your hard work!

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by lancelot9898

One question you asked that I can answer is that the deck of the Tayanas are balsa cored. You should go the the Tayana's owner's group for more detailed questions and answers. www.tognews@googlegroups.com

yes, thank you. i found that yesterday. end grain balsa, whatever that means.

[scoobert]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

I saw a referrence to a potential $20,000 repair in a post above, but as a long term DIY sailor, I see this differently. If you have a structurally functional fiberglass deck beneath the leaky teak, my choice would be to remove the teak and expoxy the ca 500 screw holes. This will likely leave you with approximately one dozen suspect areas about 3 feet by 2 feet on the deck where the core is soft. Maybe more, but likely fewer. These can be addressed over a long term one at a time for no more than $100 each with a "do it yourself" regimen. I've done this by using a rotary tool with a cutting wheel to remove the top laminate and digging out the rotten core. Then I epoxy a sheet of end balsa tiles on a cloth matrix, available at many marine supply outlets, on to the top of the inner laminate. After quicky coarse sanding the new balsa down to about a quarter inch below the deck final top I add layers of epoxy saturated matt and cloth, I fair the edges and finish. I use a quartz sand mix in a one part epoxy deck paint that masks the finish and matches true to the surroundings. Some try to replace the lifted top layer, but I do best with the new top laminate. I've completed four sections on my deck with an average of 6 square feet at a time. For someone who is among those that take on these tasks instead of putting money into a yard repair, such a fix can be completed for a total of about $1,500 instead of ten times this amount! Of course this is without assigning a monetary value to all your hard work!

sounds good. i came up with a few things i may try as well.
i was thinking of well first stopping the leak, however.
and to get the water out of the core i was thinking of placing a vacuum,
not a shop vac but an actual vacuum pump, over holes i have drilled in the bottom of the deck. i have seen this is what they now do to repair osmosis.
so yes, if i can get this yacht, for the price i offered, then i will buy it. i will know in june if i have it