Challenge: Engine Diagnosis

[Celestialsailor]

Hi John...I'm hauled at Nelsons. All the marinizing is in my shop, soon to be detailed. The block is in a bath being stripped of impurities. The head is being re-vamped with the parts we have. I'm contemplating doing a test run for 10 minutes before I take it to the boat.

[SkiprJohn]

Well, you probably don't know about age related problems with memory since you're still a young whipper snapper but I did mean Nelson's.

Steve said Hi as the guy was motoring by. The new guy is posting under "Putter, putt-putt"

Good deal on the engine. Sounds like you are making progress and bet you can't wait to start putting it back together. I did a start and run test before I hoisted my engine aboard just to make certain it ran ok. Some day I'll run it while in the water too.

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by Rakuflames

One problem that can occur with automotive parts is that they aren't designed to do well in a marine environment. Someone put an automotive battery charger on my boat. Then I found out that an automotive battery charger can cause electrolysis in my BRAND NEW FRESH-WATER COOLED ENGINE!!

Grrr. Thank goodness I found out in time. The guy who installed the engine was very good and never spent my money unnecessarily. He didn't change the battery charger. He just advised me to do so, to protect my new engine.

Be careful about automotive parts.

I have a yanmar 2gm20fw does that mean I cant use a automotive battery charger?what could I look at for parts... a tractor..forklift..anything else

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Tropical,
There is no reason why you can't use an automotive battery charger on a boat to charge the batteries while you are there watching it. Do not leave it unattended. There are ways in which a boat could get wet inside, rock from side to side or develop a short in the electrical feed for your 120v. An auto charger is not designed for continuous marine use but will charge a battery.
Yes, car parts can be used on marine engines. Especially filters, glow plugs and such. You have to be a bit selective in what you'll install on your boat and expect to work well in a saltwater environment as you know.
Good luck.
kind regards,

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

Aloha Tropical,
There is no reason why you can't use an automotive battery charger on a boat to charge the batteries while you are there watching it. Do not leave it unattended. There are ways in which a boat could get wet inside, rock from side to side or develop a short in the electrical feed for your 120v. An auto charger is not designed for continuous marine use but will charge a battery.
Yes, car parts can be used on marine engines. Especially filters, glow plugs and such. You have to be a bit selective in what you'll install on your boat and expect to work well in a saltwater environment as you know.
Good luck.
kind regards,

Aloha SkiprJohn..Thanks for the reply..How long would it take electrolisis to do damage if say the boat has taken on water(fresh) and has been setting a while..I ask as there is a boat Im trying to sell and it has had water standing a few inches above the sole for 6 or more months and there is a dusty coating on the engine much like oxidation you would see on aluminum, but its very thick and fine..I have pumped the water out and sealed the port that was missing and removed the power cord from the lake as it was in the water..has the engine integrety been compromised(Internal)it turns over but I have yet to crank it up..any thoughts would be helpful thanks DVC

[Celestialsailor]

Ok...Today was the day. I got the basic engine back from the Machine shop last week with most items replace inside the engine. I even had the crank balanced. The builder said it out 2 gram one end and 4 grams on the other end. I spent all last week putting all the marinizing stuff on. Friday, the crane put it back in the boat, then a friend and myself spent the rest of Friday and today lining things up and bleeding, bleeding and more bleeding. Once all the air was out of the system, she fired right up...YEAH!!!
Then we noticed the water dripping from the raw water pump. About a drop a second...then a stream...then notice no exhaust flow out the back...so I shut it down at 140 degrees. It only crept up to 180 which is a good temperature anyways. So the pump was one of the few items I never checked. So now that it runs, I will go around the boat and tighten things up and rebuild the Sherwood F 85 water pump.
The rebuild in parts and outside labor ended up at $3200. It could have been less if didn't replace everything inside the engine but hey...I had it apart. It sure does run sweet. So looking at the start of this thread, we can take away from the experience as:-
Never run your diesel for only a few minutes at a time.
Start it up every month and warm it up under load.

[Tellie]

Don't forget after you've run this new re-build for a bit to re-torque the head bolts and re-set the valves clearances. If you haven't already I'd check with the manufacturer on the recommended time frame for this. I've seen more than one new head gasket failure due to not re-checking torque.

[Wishinforwind]

Diesel's are just are getting started when most gas motors are dead. The WORST thing you can do is idle a diesel for a little bit each month then shut it off. You start them run them slow let them warm and run them hard for a goodly amount of time 20-30 min ! That will help keep the combustion chambers clean. If you understand the mechanics behind how they work you will see why this so true. I mean look at semis they rarely ever shut them down unless they need to and 80% of the time semis are running hard on the interstate. Now that you rebuilt her be kind to her and give that lil motor the love and attention she needs and she will never fail you. it SHOULD outlast your boat.

[Celestialsailor]

Wise suggestions from both of you. The Engine Machine shop also said that it was really helpful to spray a little Marvel Magic Mystery oil in the intake while shutting it down if I was going to let it sit for awhile between uses. I have never heard of that but this guy's been a builder for almost 50 years.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Wise suggestions from both of you. The Engine Machine shop also said that it was really helpful to spray a little Marvel Magic Mystery oil in the intake while shutting it down if I was going to let it sit for awhile between uses. I have never heard of that but this guy's been a builder for almost 50 years.

But.... what was the issue with the engine "clunking" and not turning?? or did I miss that?

[Wishinforwind]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

Wise suggestions from both of you. The Engine Machine shop also said that it was really helpful to spray a little Marvel Magic Mystery oil in the intake while shutting it down if I was going to let it sit for awhile between uses. I have never heard of that but this guy's been a builder for almost 50 years.

When he says little he means LITTLE not 2 min spray. What your doing is lubing the top of the cylinder and piston walls. so you do not dry rub the piston walls with the rings on a start up also helps keep rust spots from forming. when your shutting down just before you hit the kill switch you squirt a little in there and let the motor breath it in. any light oil should work. I recomend that only if your not using it for a few months at a time. not between every time. She should be good to sit for 2-3 weeks with out oiling her.

[Wishinforwind]

here is no reason why you can't use an automotive battery charger on a boat.

The main reason is automotive battrie chargers are not sealed for wet environments and anything electrical does and will corrode. over time in damp/wet conditions. You can use one but you will burn it out fast. but more then likely you will develop a quirk in the charger and you MIGHT damage the chargers brain and it over/under chargers the batteries causing damage. ask anyone who has worked on their electrical in the boat and things not properly sealed/coated end up green corroded and nasty in a very short time.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Wishinforwind

When he says little he means LITTLE not 2 min spray. What your doing is lubing the top of the cylinder and piston walls. so you do not dry rub the piston walls with the rings on a start up also helps keep rust spots from forming. when your shutting down just before you hit the kill switch you squirt a little in there and let the motor breath it in. any light oil should work. I recomend that only if your not using it for a few months at a time. not between every time. She should be good to sit for 2-3 weeks with out oiling her.

...Yes...I didn't elaborate but that is the reason. To put a minimal coating on everything if it sits 3 months or so.

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

But.... what was the issue with the engine "clunking" and not turning?? or did I miss that?

...Yup...you missed it. It was carbon that sat on the roof of the head and swelled from moisture after sitting for a few years. This prevented the pistons from going past TDC. I would have never believed it unless I dismantled it myself and witnessed that.

[Wishinforwind]

Originally Posted by Celestialsailor

...Yup...you missed it. It was carbon that sat on the roof of the head and swelled from moisture after sitting for a few years. This prevented the pistons from going past TDC. I would have never believed it unless I dismantled it myself and witnessed that.

all I can say is WOW I have never seen carbon build up that bad. your very lucky it didn't fire up or you would have trashed the whole motor! I have to wonder what the person before you did to cause that much carbon. I have worked on /in many a motor ad that's the first! He must have had a additive or something. This is one to tell the fellas at the shop tho they will swear I am telling tall tales.