Wiring Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Rocker Switch with Light

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

I can't find a good example of this online so I'll try here.

I bought a Ancor 554024 SPST rocker switch with a light and it has no wiring diagram and I can't find one online which matches their terminal layout or labeling.

It has a six box grid on the back labeled with numbers.
Three of the boxes have terminals which I'll indicate with an asterix (*).

This is what it looks like:

 8  |  7*
----|----
 2* |  5
----|----
 3* |  6

I got my handy dandy multimeter to see what I can figure out:
Continuity test Switch OFF
* 7 is connected to 3
* 7 is NOT connected to 2
* 2 is NOT connected to 3

Continuity test Switch ON
* 7 is connected to 3
* 7 is connected to 2
* 2 is connected to 3


Is this correct:
7 --> DC -
3 --> DC +
2 --> To the load/Acc (in this case a pump)

Thanks for the help!
-patrick

[Vyndance]

Check resistance between the terminals. The line to load will show 0. The line to the pilot light (+ to -) will show something 5 + ohms. Continuity won't work here.

[four winds]

Are you sure that's a SPST.

Six contacts looks like Double Pole Double Throw to me.

I haven't attempted to comprehend your continuity testing yet.


edit,..... never mind, I see you only have three contacts. sorry.

[capngeo]

Originally Posted by four winds

Are you sure that's a SPST.

Six contacts looks like Double Pole Double Throw to me.

I haven't attempted to comprehend your continuity testing yet.


edit,..... never mind, I see you only have three contacts. sorry.

I thought the same... went to ancor's site, no info there either

[four winds]

Typically a switch doesn't pass a ground through. (Always exceptions)

I believe this switch would typically be used to accept a DC positive input to terminal 2 and pass through to both terminals 3 and 7.

Single Throw Double Pole if I'm speculating properly.

Is this a factory replacement switch? Do you have a schematic for the circuit to which you wish to install it?

edit,... oh hang on, "with a light", that light needs ground from somewhere. The ground wouldn't pass through, but would complete the circuit for the built in indicator light. I'm puzzling it.....

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

Originally Posted by Vyndance II

Check resistance between the terminals. The line to load will show 0. The line to the pilot light (+ to -) will show something 5 + ohms. Continuity won't work here.

Resistance:
Switch OFF
7 & 3 is 18.4 Ohm
7 & 2 is 0 Ohm
2 & 3 is 0 Ohm

Switch ON
7 & 3 is 18.4 Ohm
7 & 2 is 18.4 Ohm
2 & 3 is 0.5 Ohm

[Vyndance]

Originally Posted by Patrick_DeepPlaya

Resistance:
Switch OFF
7 & 3 is 18.4 Ohm
7 & 2 is 0 Ohm
2 & 3 is 0 Ohm

Switch ON
7 & 3 is 18.4 Ohm
7 & 2 is 18.4 Ohm
2 & 3 is 0.5 Ohm

It is a pilot light switch guys. SPST. Just like he said.

2 is the line
3 is the load
7 is the negative

[osirissail]

With LED switches things are a little different that with incandescent lighted switches. The use of an analog multimeter may give curious readings.
- - Normally in my experience with marine switches the power in goes to the center most pin - in this case #2 and the load is attached to the outer pin - in this case #3. Pin #7 is the negative to enable the LED to light.
- - This is done so that the same switch body can be used as a SPDT - there would be an active pin at position #8 to which an alternative load would be connected. So power could flow from the center pin alternatively to either outer pin.
- - I would try this first with a ground to pin #7 and the switch off touch a + lead to #2 and then to #3. If the LED lights then that is the output pin to the load.

[four winds]

I got it. Check to see if there is a small resistance between 7 and 3 in the OFF position. Might be as little a 2 ohms, so check carefully. If so.....

Terminal 2 is DC positive input. Terminal 3 is DC positive output. And terminal 7 is the ground for the internal indicator light.

Be careful, this is internet advice and highly unreliable as a result.

[four winds]

Ha! Looks like everybody is correct.

OP just needs to swap 2 and 3 from is original post.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Patrick_DeepPlaya

.......


Is this correct:
7 --> DC -
3 --> DC +
2 --> To the load/Acc (in this case a pump)

Thanks for the help!
-patrick

Probably...

What sort of light is in the switch - incandescent or LED or ?

Given your tests, I would expect to see the light circuit across 3 & 7 with the switch contacts being 3 & 2.

Try to measure the resistance between 3 & 7, if it a couple of ohms or more, briefly connect 12 volts to them and see if the light comes on.

[four winds]

And Wotname is correct as well.

However the input must be 2 and output 3.

If input was on 3 the indicator light would be on all the time.

[Wotname]

Wow, first posted at 09.16, then first reply at 09.31 with another 9 replies by 09.54 all essentially with the same advice.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by four winds

And Wotname is correct as well.

However the input must be 2 and output 3.

If input was on 3 the indicator light would be on all the time.

Ah.. yes, of course

[four winds]

We like 'lecticity.

I earned $200 one afternoon last week sorting out the wiring on a small work boat used to dive and scrub bottoms. A small operation, and the owner was very pleased to be back to work.