Vitrifigo Fridge Compressor Stopped

[trosenthal20]

I reset the parameters as suggested but synchronize is flashing now at only 12.7-12.8 on the monitor and 100%. Genset has been running still. Monitor voltage and fsw3000 readings have stopped increasing.

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[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by trosenthal20

I reset the parameters as suggested but synchronize is flashing now at only 12.7-12.8 on the monitor and 100%. Genset has been running still. Monitor voltage and fsw3000 readings have stopped increasing.

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If voltage is only 12.7 volts at the battery then the FSW3000 inverter-charger is not charging, hence you are not getting any value from the genset and might as well turn it off. You way want to turn on charger function or reboot the inverter charger.

Another story is that if the battery monitor has been overstating State of Charge (usual thing with default settings) then in order to get things even after you correct the settings you need to actually charge the battery to REAL 100%, which means keeping at 14.4V plus/minus temperature comp for as long as required for the battery to only accept about 10A into the batteries.. If the solar controller and genset-powered charger do not deliver 14.4V because they are set to a lower absorption voltage that needs to be corrected. If they do not deliver 14.4V because they havce switched to float after the one hour of absorption ran out, then you need to reboot/reset the charger/controller to start the cycle again. You need to do all this only once.

You will not regret measuring those 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with a multimeter. Later on you can trust the monitor but not until you are sure that it shows the same voltage that you see in the battery.

Please yell if any of this is not clear.

[trosenthal20]

Just measured the voltage at all 5 batteries with the multimeter. 12.78 at the shunt battery and 12.73 at the others. Monitor shows 12.9 dropping to 12.78 and inverter/charger shows 13.0-13.3. I've always left the charger enabled on the inverter. Everything seems to have topped out and monitor appears to be giving accurate voltage from the batteries. What next?

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[trosenthal20]

Looking thru the outback manual to check absorption setting.

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[trosenthal20]

Ok. Selecting the status/fx/battery there are no readings or settings.

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[trosenthal20]

Checking status/cc/setpt absorb is 14.4 vdc and float is set at 13.6 vdc.

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[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by trosenthal20

Just measured the voltage at all 5 batteries with the multimeter. 12.78 at the shunt battery and 12.73 at the others. Monitor shows 12.9 dropping to 12.78 and inverter/charger shows 13.0-13.3. I've always left the charger enabled on the inverter. Everything seems to have topped out and monitor appears to be giving accurate voltage from the batteries. What next?

I do not know how can you say that everything is "topped out/up" if you have not seen batteries reach proper charging voltage (about 14.4V) when the charger is on and the genset is running. It is your boat and your time; I can only suggest you start as follows:

1) You say that the "inverter/charger shows 13.0-13.3". Check is that if that is the actual voltage at the inverter-charger or at a "device with a screen" that is reading voltage somewhere else (find where).

2) Trace the voltage drop between in the positive wire the inverter-charger and the batteries, all before the current changes significantly. Then same thing on the negative wire. You will have to make a little drawing showing all the peices of wire that an electron has to go through between battery and inverter-charger. Measure the voltage between ends of each pice of wire and they should add up to 0.2-0.5 (difference between 13.0 or 13.-3 and 12.8). That drop (around 3% of 12V) is acceptable drop for rated inverter current (250A or so in your inverter, chosen because it is higher than the 150A rated charger current) but I bet you are not charging more than 100A because the reading tells me that there is little current flowing, hence drop should be almost nil. . Therefore something needs improvement until voltage drop between battery and inverter-charger is no more than 0.4V WHILE YOU ARE DRAWING MAXIMUM INVERTER OUTPUT, or a proprotionally lower number with lower inverter draws or charger currents. Ideally you do this same test when running the inverter full tilt with microwave and hair dryer to reach 2000-2500VA inverting and with the genset off..

Note: if you write down the length and gauge of each piece of positie and negative wire between inverter-charger and battery that will help explain how much is due to length and gauge of wires an dhow much is due to bad connections.

3) Most importantly, you have to find a way to get your charger to deliver charger´s rated capacity in bulk (early) stage (150A) and battery´s desired charging voltage (14.4 or so) in absorption (later) stage. First action is to reboot the charger and keep an eye on a) current that leaves the charger (ideally measured with a DC ammeter clamp on one of the fat wires connected to the inverter-charger) clamp and b) voltage between the two terminals where the fat wires are attached to inverter-charger. If you do not have a clamp turn off all loads and solar, set the inverter-charger to "charger only" and read amps and volts in the battery monitor.Record the values every minute for 10 minutes and report back.. You will have to do this test for both bulk an dabsorption stages, which means either charging or discharging batteries as required.. This point is with solar off and inverter-charger in "charge only" mode .

Cheers

C

[svlamorocha]

Originally Posted by trosenthal20

Checking status/cc/setpt absorb is 14.4 vdc and float is set at 13.6 vdc.

Now turn on the genset and turn off the inverter-charger of completely. Then connect a voltmeter to the two fat wires where they connect to the inverter-charger (without touching the thinner AC wires that might zap you). Now, while you look at the voltmeter, turn the thing to "charger only". Plot the voltages every minute, the voltage should go up to 14.4 volts over time, and current should be 150A until voltage reaches 14.4V. If you report back numbers we can help you.

[trosenthal20]

Sorry. My comment re: topped up was referring to the panel readings stalling out. Understand completely I need to get the batteries to 14.4. Very much appreciate your patience and advice. Will continue to work though it.

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