Trouble with Tritons - B&G displays

[muttskie]

I'm a bit confused about how one actually performs an update of the software on both the Triton Pilot and the Triton Displays.
If it matters, I have two Triton displays, one Pilot controller, and two Zeus T-7 MFDs all on a Maretron N2K network.
Could someone give me a description of the process?
Thanks.

[jr_spyder]

It's really quite simple. Look for the instructions here at the bottom of the page: Zeus v1.1 Software Update This is for the Zeus but pretty much the same for the Triton. You don't need to do the Zeus backup part (although not a bad idea), you'll just use the Triton downloaded file instead. Once you're in it the upgrade interface gives you some options to upgrade all Tritons at once, or selectively pick what you want. I'd just try them all for starters. For most people this has worked fine.

Good luck. John.

[muttskie]

Originally Posted by jr_spyder

It's really quite simple. Look for the instructions here at the bottom of the page: Zeus v1.1 Software Update This is for the Zeus but pretty much the same for the Triton. You don't need to do the Zeus backup part (although not a bad idea), you'll just use the Triton downloaded file instead. Once you're in it the upgrade interface gives you some options to upgrade all Tritons at once, or selectively pick what you want. I'd just try them all for starters. For most people this has worked fine.

Good luck. John.

Thanks for the help, John. I appreciate it very much.

The B&G U.S. website is not clear, at all, about the Triton or the Pilot being updated via a Zeus Touch MFD. I have Zeus Touch 7s and the installation instructions, not the operation manual, imply, in one sentence, that other devices on a N2K network can have software updated through a Zeus Touch.

On the Triton and Pilot software update pages, B&G indicates a completely different process, with no mention of using a Zeus Touch. It seems those particular instructions are directed at dealers, with special interface tools.

And when we get to the software update for my 4G radar, there is an update, but absolutely no instructions as how to install it (It concerns GoFree WiFi compatibility). Am I to assume (!) that it is done through the Zeus Touch MFD also? The radar is connected to the N2K network via a Simnet cable, along with the primary ethernet network connections, so it should see and be seen by the MFDs on both networks.

I must say that the documentation produced by B&G is sorely lacking, particularly considering that not all purchasers of their stuff spend hours of time on various forums, etc., trying to figure out how to dial in their products.
It guess it doesn't help that I am a longtime Mac user and needed to procure a PC (yikes!) for doing this stuff (and to deal with the Maretron and Vesper equipment also onboard).
Through Google, I discovered the process to properly load the unzipped updates on a micro sd card via the PC, so I think I have a handle on it.

[Fluenta]

On the topic of the Triton Pilot Controller ... I am in the process of installing a new AC42N autopilot with a AP24 at the companionway and Triton Pilot Controller at the chart table plus the Triton display that is already at the chart table. Have also added the WR20 remote and will add a Zeus Touch 7 when I get a chance. The AC42/AP24/WR20 combo seems to work well but I get no response at all from the Triton Pilot Controller when I put the Triton Pilot Controller into the network. I have tried different "T"'s to ensure I do not have a bad wiring connection. The network wiring is very simple everything off a separate T from the backbone except 3xSimrad IS20's daisychained at the companionway.

I have not done gone beyond the dock commissioning yet as I have unrelated work to finish on the boat first.

Any hints on what could be wrong with the Pilot Controller ? Am I missing something simple or is it defective ? I will attempt to call Navico tomorrow which hopefully works despite being in Mexico.

Thanks,

[goboatingnow]

Does the Trition pilot work with SIMRAD autopilots, I thought it was for the B&G autopilots?

dave

[colemj]

The Triton pilot controller works just fine with Simrad AP's. The standard B&G AP's are nothing but rebranded Simrad units - the sticker is the only difference. The higher end B&G AP's are different altogether and these do not work with the Triton controller.

Fluenta, is the indicator light lit on your pilot controller when hooked to the network? Are there key beeps when pressed? Did you use the AP24 or Triton setup window to auto-find all network components? If so, does the pilot controller show up on the network?

BTW, I remember a thread here about the Simrad AP remote causing all sorts of problems. Maybe do a search for that.

Mark

[Fluenta]

Talked to B&G. They said to ship it back for replacement. Will see if I can get a refund instead as not worth the hassle getting parts here.

[jr_spyder]

I started this thread last fall with my woeful tale of trouble and can only today report it looks like my problems are solved. Unfortunately I had a late start to the season and my boat only went in the water last week. I did a short shakedown cruise last Saturday and got out for a spirited 6 hour sail today. I'm thrilled to report that my autopilot failures seemed to have stopped as a result of the latest software upgrades (I haven't changed and gear or wiring configs, just the software). This was a very long push with Navico to fix what I believe was a time-out issue in how their software handled any noise on the backbone. Of course it would be better not to have noise but that's unrealistic on any complex network, and traffic analysis showed the mostly like source was other B&G gear (the Tritons are extremely chatty, as are the Zeuses). B&G never admitted to any of this, but magically the last upgrade fixed it. Finally.

It's a huge relief to sail my boat now not constantly worried the autopilot would disengage randomly and without warning. Phew.

Thanks for all the tips along the way,

JR

[JoeFish]

Originally Posted by jr_spyder

I started this thread last fall with my woeful tale of trouble and can only today report it looks like my problems are solved. Unfortunately I had a late start to the season and my boat only went in the water last week. I did a short shakedown cruise last Saturday and got out for a spirited 6 hour sail today. I'm thrilled to report that my autopilot failures seemed to have stopped as a result of the latest software upgrades (I haven't changed and gear or wiring configs, just the software). This was a very long push with Navico to fix what I believe was a time-out issue in how their software handled any noise on the backbone. Of course it would be better not to have noise but that's unrealistic on any complex network, and traffic analysis showed the mostly like source was other B&G gear (the Tritons are extremely chatty, as are the Zeuses). B&G never admitted to any of this, but magically the last upgrade fixed it. Finally.

It's a huge relief to sail my boat now not constantly worried the autopilot would disengage randomly and without warning. Phew.

Thanks for all the tips along the way,

JR

Can you confirm which software versions you're using for each component?

[jr_spyder]

Here you go:

Zeus 2_0-46.1.111
Triton 2_9_0_00_01
Triton Pilot Keypad 1_4_01_00


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[Fluenta]

Interesting. We just put about 4000 nm on our new AC42N/ZeusTouch7/AP24/Triton/HLD2000L Mk2 combo from Mexico to Tahiti.

The system works really well and we love the wind hold function. It works really well of course other than when it doesn't. Every once and a while we get a "rudder response failure".

During the failure you can hear the pump whirring but you can still move the helm without resistance so it is as if the solenoid is not engaged. If you turn off the a/p power and restart after a few minutes it is as if nothing has happened.

No correlation to sailing conditions, sail trim, etc. Happens most often if changing between modes - ie auto to wind to nav etc but not always.

Talked to Navico twice now and they suggest waiting until we get to New Zealand where the tech I talked to said they would replace the AC42. Still 3000nm to go or so so would be nice to get it fixed earlier.

I have:

- redone all the commissioning steps
- checked the physical connections for the drive and rudder reference.
- checked the wiring.

Any thoughts out there ?

Cheers,

Max

[jr_spyder]

I learned a couple things through my troubles that may or may not relate. First, the error message may be a lie. I consistently got a message that I had no pilot computer when I most certainly did have one. Second, Navico offers two rudder sensor units. One is N2k and one is directly wired it the AC42. My original config was with the N2k version. The tech told me they had occasional issues with this version and sent me the direct wire version to try. It didn't fix my problems, after a substantial effort to do the replacement and run the wire, but there's some suspicion.

I think your focus on the solenoid is a good one. Sounds like you may have a failing part there that works intermittently, or it could be the computer is sending the wrong instruction which I would think is binary - "in" or "out".

Good luck with the fix and have a great voyage.

JR


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[Fluenta]

Thanks. It is not just the error message: the hydraulic ram is not moving or indeed even engaged when the error come up. I can easily move he helm while I hear the pump whirling to no avail.

I have the hard wired rudder reference vice the n2k one.

[colemj]

Your problem sounds like a bad solenoid or wiring to the solenoid. This is a more common failure of a drive than the computer going bad. The solenoid wires are usually pretty small gauge - have you check for a pinch in the run?

Mark

[Fluenta]

My suspicion is certainly the solenoid especially as the box the drive came in was in rough shape and the solenoid was no longer mounted on the drive by the time I received it. The rod that the solenoid mounts on was pushed through the side of the box and the threads were so mangled I needed to use a die to clean the threads. I told Navico this but they seem convinced it is the computer at fault.

To answer your question, I have checked the solenoid wiring but it seems fine. Also, the old drive used the same solenoid wiring without a problem. However, I will check again next time I get access to the compartment.

Much thanks for your input.