SSB Advice

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by fairbank56

Shielded cable is not required for operation but highly recommended to prevent interference being picked up on the control wiring.

Eric

Yes I agree and I'm sure I had trouble getting it like the OP, before going unshielded. I do have beads on it at both ends which might help. But I did that from start so it might be fine without them too.

cheers,
Nick.

[NorthPacific]

Lost! LOL

Is the west marine trailer wire shielded cable?

Steve

[fairbank56]

No it is not. The OEM cable is an OPC-566 and available from West Marine for a hefty price and includes the connector to plug into the radio pigtail connector. A shielded cable has an outer uninsulated conductor that completely (or nearly so) surrounds the inner conductors. It may be in the form of spirally wrapped strands or inter-woven braided strands. You would connect this conductor to the ground screw at the back of the radio.

OEM cable is available at Radioworld for $75. West Marine should meet that price.

Eric

[NorthPacific]

Thanks Eric.

Steve

[SoonerSailor]

I wonder if wrapping the trailer wire 3 or more times around a ferrite choke at each end would serve as well? Just a thought.

Chip

[NorthPacific]

Choke a ferrite. That sounds risky! them buggers bite! How about a squirrel?

[Paul Elliott]

Originally Posted by SoonerSailor

I wonder if wrapping the trailer wire 3 or more times around a ferrite choke at each end would serve as well? Just a thought.

Chip

With the proper core this can be extremely effective. I (and others) have posted with ferrite advice, here's one of my recent posts: http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post805563

[ShaunJ]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Connect it at the radio end only. If you connect at both ends, you create a ground loop. Loops are bad. Except when they are your antenna.'

ciao!
Nick.

What Jedi said... in the telecom world, we call it a drain

[NorthPacific]

http://i1-news.softpedia-static.com/...okes-are-2.jpg

google ferrite chokes their are 100's

So the wire harness joby does the job but is more expensive than doit yourself by people who know what they are talking about.

Got to buy a book! I get depressed when I see all the connection ports on the back. But definitely want to get weather information. One step at a time. 17 months 25 days to go.

[NorthPacific]

Hi Shaun, What do I not connect to the tuner?
What Jedi said... in the telecom world, we call it a drain


__________________

[ShaunJ]

The shield only needs to be connected on the radio end, leave the other side as it is.

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Let me google that for you


Okay okay, it didn't return the link I wanted Here you go: ANCOR MARINE Wire at West Marine'

ciao!
Nick.

How do you do that?

Nick that cable ids not shielded is it?

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by NorthPacific

How do you do that?

Nick that cable ids not shielded is it?

The cable isn't shielded; I have used ferrite cores like described in this thread. Shielded cable would be better.

ciao!
Nick.

[Jim Cate]

You can always use shielding braid that is sold separately and then slid over the cable. Not as tidy, but it works.

Jim

[NorthPacific]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

The cable isn't shielded; I have used ferrite cores like described in this thread. Shielded cable would be better.

ciao!
Nick.

So Nick the control cable from the Icom 710 to the AT130 should be:

4 core shielded cable. Follow the wiring diagram that Icom provides. What gauge wire for this control wire? Something that can handle 2 amps?

link the shield to the ground on 1 end only. either end?

Run a ground wire from the radio to the ground on tuner as per Icom instructions.

Dont think I will find fancy solutions in our small hardware stores so the separate braid is probably not going to work.

Add kiss to At130 ground point.

Coaxial set up like any co axial set up.

I must be close now

Steve