Simrad AP16 Rudder Response failure help?

[mrybas]

Ok....I'll have to go for another sail and do some more observation to see if the noise is coming from the pump or ram. The AP computer is an AC 20. The only markings I can find on the drive unit say 'Octopus'.....I didn't see a model number.

[DeepFrz]

Hydraulic Drive Solutions | OCTOPUS

[mrybas]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Hydraulic Drive Solutions | OCTOPUS

I was replacing the supply voltage wire from 12g to 10g to see if it would help give the AP pump more power. However once I loosened the screws on the supply voltage terminals on the AP computer they became stuck! The will not budge either way tighten or loosen. I am afraid to force it and break them because I know I will not be able to easily get parts here.....any suggestions?

[Neptune's Gear]

Not much. A bit of CRC or similar and leave for a couple of hours, then try again. Be sure you are going in the right direction if at one and of the travel or the other....

[DeepFrz]

Maybe a little PB Blaster or other brand penetrating oil. But just a little, let sit for a while and then try. They may have galled...ugh.

[44'cruisingcat]

Octopus pumps do tend to make a groaning sound.

[DeepFrz]

Have you made any progress?

[donradcliffe]

My Simrad had the same symptoms when the drive brushes crapped out, but it was on their HLD 2000L drive, not the Octopus. I'd try to find a spare set of brushes.

Try:

1. Run the rudder back and forth with manual AP at anchor, and see if the rudder position follows smoothly . Check current consumption--should be 2-3 amps, and voltage at the AP terminal should be over 12v. If the position is twitchy around the zero rudder position, the RFU needs replacing, but you can use it for a while if you rotate the RF300 base 10-15 degrees and recalibrate.

2. Under sail, drive the boat yourself--does the helm feel heavy?? Then put AP on and check current consumption--should be no more than 5-7 amps in the peaks. Your rudder system may be starting to seize up.

[mrybas]

Today I replaced the old wiring from the AP computer to the drive unit with 12awg and the solenoid with 14awg (the existing wire was outdoor house hold wire). Once I replaced with new wire and turned on the AP and engaged 'Auto', the pump does not stop running. I checked all the connects and am pretty sure I didn't reverse anything....any ideas?

[mrybas]

So I've been messing around some more. When 'Auto' is engaged the pump is running continuously and the wheel is able to be turned freely (usually when in 'Auto' the wheel is controlled by the AP). When pressing +10 or -10 the ram responds by moving the rudder, but then the wheel is free to turn again......
Is the purpose of the solenoid to open/close the bypass valve? If so, could this be stuck in open/closed?

[Neptune's Gear]

Yes. If the wheel is normally locked when the AP is on, and now it is not, the bypass soleniod is not operating. There should be an audible click as it switches...

[DeepFrz]

Indeed the bypass valve would be a good place to start checking. If it is closed you should have great difficulty turning the wheel. I am guessing that you may have loosened a connection to it when you were re-wiring.

[DeepFrz]

Matt, it seems you and I are time synced from opposite corners of the world.

[Neptune's Gear]

Yeah, on the same thought path again as well!