Rustproof speaker cable?

[lagoon100]

Hi

Does anybody have a idea where i could fund rustproof speaker cable?

I would like install 2 speakers on the front side by the netting of a Cat., so they would be exposed to weather and salt.

thx for your time and infos

cheers

[Unicorn Dreams]

All speaker wire should be copper which does not rust.
I would use Monster cable as it is heavier cable that wil resist vibration that is a bigger culprit for wire failure..

[lagoon100]

Thx, but it does oxidize, if there would be a stainless cable that would not rust and not oxidize, but i diden't find one.

any ideas?

[Sandero]

Tinned copper twin lead cable. Of course you have to deal with the connectors on the speakers themselves which will likely corrode anyway. I suppose you could make up the connectors and completely seal the entire connection in silicone.

[lagoon100]

oh, forgot, they should be removable, thats the real problem

[skipmac]

What kind of connectors are on the speakers? Most I have seen are some type of screw terminal so the tinned copper wire would just wrap around the post and be clamped down by the screw. I have seen some with RCA plugs (the kind of plug on the back of your stereo where your auxilary inputs plug in). You can get gold plated RCA plugs from many sources, even Radio Shack.

Then I have seen some speakers that use banana plugs. I assume you can find gold plated banana plugs as well but have not looked for them.

[camaraderie]

Most small speakers will either have spring clips or screw down terminals. For screw down terminals just get some gold plated terminations that fit and for spring connections get a crimp on straight wire connector as shown below.


Available at cablesforless for just a few bucks.
And yes...tinned copper twin lead will be your best bet...typically 16 guage will be just fine.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by defjef

Tinned copper twin lead cable. Of course you have to deal with the connectors on the speakers themselves which will likely corrode anyway. I suppose you could make up the connectors and completely seal the entire connection in silicone.

And then bury the connections in vaseline. It works far better than than any of the spray stuff or silicone. The first statement is based on on-going laboratory testing. The second is the experience that eventually, with slamming, the silicon will leak.

Al-nox (Ideal - got it at Home Depot) is very good too.

[Zach]

If its the last time you want to mess with it, you might use some water proof flush mounts, and build an enclosure for them. Most speakers have tabs that will accept a 1/4 inch push connector once you get inside. The banana plugs and little spring loaded tabs are down stream from the actual speaker...

You can use heat shrinking crimp connectors on the ends of the wire... or just solder it. ( I like to use the little hole drilled for solder joints. Removable, just heat it back up. Grin!)

Shoot the connector full of dielectric grease (I figure its overkill on the wire side...) and don't worry about it for a while.

Zach

[redcobra]

Tinned Copper such as Ancor Marine Grade Cable. Jacketed twin lead with a waterproof shrink wrap at the point where the two cables exit the jacket. Waterproof shrinkwrap where the tinned copper leaves the individual jackets. Soldered connections to Gold connectors.
Leave extra cable so when the connectors do corrode you can cut them off and install new ones without making the cables too short.

[Waterborn]

I used to work for Sony of Canada a while ago, and I seem to remember there being "oxygen free" speaker wire. You would still have the challenges of the terminals corroding, but the wire itself would not be able to.

[redcobra]

The oxygen free speaker cables were supposedly made in an oxygen free environment and supposedly increased conductivity and lowered resistance. However the salt air will still crawl up the jacket unless you can maintain a vacuum. So tinned copper Ancor will still be better. Oxygen free cable is an audiophile tweek for those who are in search of the nth dB. Physics rules!

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by lagoon100

oh, forgot, they should be removable, thats the real problem

Since this appears to be a “portable” and exposed (to the elements) application, I’d just go with the cheapest twin-lead available, and replace as necessary.

Tinning the ends, and sealing the jacket will extend the cable life somewhat, but UV (sunlight) degradation may get to the jacket, even before conductor corrosion sets in.

[Sandero]

What you can do is attach a pigtail to the speakers which is a clean connection and seal it in epoxy. Use gold connectors for the speaker wire and the pigtail and seal them as well to eliminate as much wicking down the wire as possible.

[S/V Antares]

If you want to mount the speakers more permanently or have the connections in a more protected area....Poly Planar makes a nice box speaker with an 18 ft speaker cable attached with a waterproof connection on the speaker. MA7500 in black or white. I used them for exterior speakers on the aft rail seats and they work great. You need to be sure they have the cable attached as the same series was available without the waterproof terminals in the past (Old stock)