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Old 21-05-2010, 15:43   #1
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Lindh Power Supply

Anyone using a Lindh DC to DC power supply for their laptop? I bought one used. $40 (new they are $100) and man am I disappointed. The thing just won't stay plugged in. I've tried it in my car and on two different 12 volt power outlets on the boat, it is intermittent at best. The plug just seems too shallow to keep contact with the metal in the socket. It is especially disappointing because the competitors make one for $17. I thought this was going to be one of those times where spending the money would make a difference in the long run. I guess I was right in a way.
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Old 21-05-2010, 17:01   #2
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Don't give up yet. Lind (Lind Electronics) power adapters are among the very best on the market.

If the cigarette lighter plug is faulty or damaged, replace it. Very simple job. Just two wires (be sure to get the polarity right) and, maybe, a fuse. Check to see if it's got a fuse inside -- some of them do -- and include a similar-size in-line fuse with the new plug.

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Old 21-05-2010, 17:30   #3
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I have used the Lind converters for years and currently use one in both my car and boat to power my notebook. I've never had the problem you describe and suspect you may have a bad plug. If you bought the unit used it is possible someone may have changed it. As stated earlier, the plugs are easy to change and you could try another one to see it it works better.
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Old 21-05-2010, 19:17   #4
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We have one of these and love it, considerable more efficient than using an inverter. Try contacting their support and explain the issue, they seem to be very responsive and helpful.

There's a big difference between these DC-DC converters, and the cheap and simple regulators...
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Old 21-05-2010, 23:24   #5
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Dear Unbusted,

One would love to do the happy dance yelling "Looser!"


But there may be an idea to solve you little problem

The cigarette socket on here is prime realestate, theres more things needing to be plugged in than sockets. It may be the same with you. So if the plug is the naughty bit why don't you chop it off and hard wire the converter into your panel?

I recently bought some smaller plugs which, when I have time(!!) I will be putting in so I can run more things at once, and have a much smaller, or hidden, footprint than the cigarette lighter.


You may even be able to hide the whole little box and just havce the weeny wire popping out close to the 'puters power socket. That would look trčs professional.


Just a thought



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Old 22-05-2010, 02:29   #6
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Highly recommend the Hella range of DC power connectors. Most plugs are rated at 10 amps although sockets are rated up to 16 amps and available surface or panel mount. Higher current rating, better connection & more robust than the average cigar lighter type.

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Old 22-05-2010, 09:22   #7
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I am amazed no one else has had this problem. Upon visual inspection it would appear that there nothing wrong with the plug. It is definitely the original (the strain relief is part of the cord). Argh frustrating. I think that everything that I have bought for this boat I have had to send back at least once.
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Old 22-05-2010, 10:02   #8
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I have the same problem with the Lindh plug not staying in the socket (the socket is at the end of a homemade extention cable, the other end wired to the breaker panel -- I don't recall where I got the socket). I think the force of the spring-tip is stronger than the friction of the side-contacts, so the plug pushes itself out.

I use a couple of heavy-duty rubber bands, wrapped from the plug to the socket, to keep things connected. This wouldn't work with a panel-mount socket, but you could certainly fabricate some sort of securing system if you wanted to. For the panel-mount socket, you might have luck replacing it with a different socket. Some have indents for the side-contacts, and others (like my in-line one) have a smooth-bore sleeve.

Once the plug stay connected, the power supply works very well.
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Old 22-05-2010, 10:20   #9
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I've never heard of these before and googling Lind just got me more curious (and confused). I do need to run a MacBook and a little Windows netbook (not at the same time) and am wondering if one of these Lind thingies would be useful.

But I'm not sure exactly what they do or how they work! Do they draw a lot of power? Would someone who uses one please clue me in? Thank you!

Rebecca
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Old 22-05-2010, 10:44   #10
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Here's their web site.
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Old 22-05-2010, 11:37   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gracias View Post
... I do need to run a MacBook and a little Windows netbook (not at the same time) and am wondering if one of these Lind thingies would be useful...
Rebecca
Last time I checked, about a year ago, a DC-DC inverter (other than the airplane version) was not available for MacBooks. You certainly should be able to find one for a netbook.
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Old 22-05-2010, 11:42   #12
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I changed all, except one, of the DC plugs on my boat to these:
Anderson Powerpoles & Accessories:

No more problems with the plugs popping out or melting.
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Old 22-05-2010, 11:46   #13
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Not So Fast :)

I guess there are some products out there now:
Mac power supply, Macbook 13"

This has the MagSafe magnetic connector, and is 60 watts (for the 13" Macbook). If you have a 15" or 17" Macbook, type that in the search field to find the 85 watt model.

I don't know what the quality is: I just bumped into it since my last post, above.
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Old 22-05-2010, 11:56   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unbusted67 View Post
I am amazed no one else has had this problem. Upon visual inspection it would appear that there nothing wrong with the plug. It is definitely the original (the strain relief is part of the cord). Argh frustrating. I think that everything that I have bought for this boat I have had to send back at least once.
I bought a 12V/120v freezer last year and had the same problem. I found that the 12v plug had a sleeve over it when I started to disassemble it to find out what the hell was wrong with it.

Look for a plastic sleeve over the plug!!!! Apparently some 12v lighter inlets are larger then others.
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Old 24-05-2010, 08:00   #15
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I’ve never been happy with the normally available 12VDC outlets (receptacles) - not the W.P. Bi-Pin Deck Connections (Perko1189 Series, Cole-HerseyM121-BP, SeaFit, & etc), and especially not the Lighter Socket type (commonly fitted to accessories).

For 12 Volt DC accessories, I use “Midget Twist-Lock Devices” (2 Pole, 2 Wire, Polarized, NEMA Code ML-1), such as the:
Hubbell #HBL7526C Flanged Receptacle (or Cooper #7468 etc.)
See ➥ http://www.stayonline.com/documents/7709-pdf.pdf

Standard Weather-Proof Coverplates are readily available available.
mated with the
Hubbell #HBL7545C Plug (male cord cap) (or Cooper #7467 etc.)
See ➥ HUBBELL HBL7545C AC Plug NEMA L1-15 Male - Our Item #: 9009, Category: AC Plugs : StayOnline.com

The series even has a female cord cap (to make an extension cord) #HBL7506C (or Cooper #7464N etc.)

Although these devices are intended for AC use (UL rated for 15A 125VAC - polarized), they are an excellent alternative to the conventional DC outlets.
They are rugged, corrosion resistant, easily installed, attractive, and best of all “Twist-Lock”.

Not normally available at Marine stores, these NEMA type "ML-1" Midget devices are available at any good Electrical (or Industrial) Distribution Supply house.

I haven’t used the "Trolling Motor" connectors (Marinco #20188R), which though 4-pole, are "Twistlok".
Anyone used these?
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