I understand being in a rush, but probably not a good idea....
(especially with this set-up, as you'll need to either make-up some cables
or source some pre-made cables...)
The M-801e is not a common animal for use with a PACTOR modem
, and while it WILL work, there are some differences...
In any case, I do have the info for you...
Originally Posted by johol
I'm in a rush to set up a PTC-IIusb modem with our m801e radio
and was wondering if anyone could provide me with the correct cable pin diagrams for the remote
and acc cables. I have found information on the m802 but there's nothing for the m801e that I can see.
Any help much appreciated
You will use the M-801e's "AF/MOD" 9-pin "D" connector and "Remote" connector....(and you're likely going to need to use the "REMOTE" connector for GPS NMEA
input as well)
I'm not sure where you are located....but...
You CAN buy pre-made cables for the M-801e.....wondering if your Icom dealer is out-of-stock???
1) For the "AF/MOD" connection:
In the initial Set Mode menus, make sure you have selected "AF/MOD" in the Remote Mod menu...
And selected ON, in the ACC out menu...
(The following info is from Sailmail's site...with my adding the M-801e's 9-pin "D" connector info in red...)
The SCS modems use an 8-pin DIN connector for HF audio connections, although all of the useful signals are on pins 1 to 5 so a 5-pin DIN connector will work just fine. In fact, the German pin layout for an 8-pin connector does not match the geometry of the American pin layout, so if you melted the original connector trying to solder it then a 5-pin connector is the easiest replacement. The 5-pin connectors from Radio Shack also dont melt as easily as the German ones. A good trick is to also buy a female connector, and plug
the male connector into the female connector to hold the pins straight while you are soldering it. The pin numbering for DIN connectors is inconsistent, so check the PTC-II manual carefully for the pin locations.
Many marine electronics
dealers sell pre-assembled cables for many common radios (e.g. Icoms). If you are using an Icom
M710, M700pro, M710RT, or M802, just buy a pre-assembled cable.
Pin 1 Transmit audio (TxD) from the HF modem to the transmitter
Connect to "MOD+", Pin 1 of the AF/MOD "D" connector.
Pin 2 Ground (audio signal return)
Connect to "MOD-", Pin 2 of the AF/MOD "D" connector, and connect to "AF-", Pin 4 of the AF/MOD "D" connector.
Pin 3 Push-to-Talk (PTT), connect to ground to transmit
Connect to "SEND", Pin 5 of the AF/MOD "D" connector.
Pin 4 Receive audio (RxD) from the receiver to the HF modem
Connect to "AF+, Pin 3 of the AF/MOD "D" connector.
Pin 5 Power supply input to PTC-II (alternative to pin jack)
If you desire to power the PTC-II from the M-801e directly, connect to "13.6V", Pin 7 of the AF/MOD "D" connector. (and you must select "On" in the ACC out menu...)
shell cable shield
Connect to GND, Pin 9 of the AF/MOD "D" connector.
Note that these pin-out connections are only slightly different than those on the M-802's AF/MOD connector, pins 3, 4, 5, and 6....so you could buy a premade 8-pin DIN to 9-pin "D" connector cable, for an M-802 and simply re-wire it according to the above table.....or start from scratch and the above info will get you connected...
2) As for remote operation....(controlling the radio from the modem)....I don't know if the M-801e will do this, but it should....and should work as the M-802 does....
ASSUMING that you have the M-801e set-up for operation outside the actual maritime bands (for use of Sailmail and Winlink), then it should work...
I do NOT have an M-801e, nor do I have a PTC-II, so I cannot be certain....but assuming things are "normal" and the PTC-II, or your computer, will output either NMEA
or RS-232 to the radio, then you'd use the corresponding NMEA or RS-232 connections on the M-801e's 9-pin "REMOTE" (9-pin "D") connector...
For the M-801e these connections are, for all practical purposes, the same as with the M-802...except..
Except that is NMEA is selected the M-801e has a second set of NMEA in and outs...
See page 59, of the Icom M-801e manual for details...
The M-801e' 9-pin REMOTE connector pin-out details...
DCD = Input terminal for carrier detection. (RS-232C selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
NMEA OUT (-) = Ground for NMEA OUT + (NMEA selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
RXD = Input terminal for receive data. (
RS-232C selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
NMEA-OUT (+) = NMEA0183 ver. 3.01 data output. (
NMEA selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
TXD = Outputs transmit data. (
RS-232C selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
NMEA-IN (+) = NMEA0183 ver. 3.01 data input. (
NMEA selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
DTR = Outputs data terminal ready signal. (RS-232C selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
NMEA-IN (-) = Ground for NMEA-IN (+). (NMEA selection for REMOTE IF. (p. 46)
5 GND = Connected to the ground.
6 DSR = Input terminal for data-set-ready signal.
7 RTS = Outputs request-to-send data.
8 CTS = Input terminal for clear-to-send data.
9 NC = No connection.
3) Some info on RFI, from Sailmail...
These signals, or something equivalent, will be present on the transceiver's rear-panel accessory connector or front-panel mike and speaker jacks, so simply match up equivalent signals (and keep a drawing of how you did it!).
A few comments on RFI: A transmitter putting out 100-150 watts in digital modes can generate quite a bit of stray RF, which often finds its way into the HF modem and computer cables and raises all sort of havoc. A good ground system and shielded cables with clip-on ferrites installed are essential. It is always necessary to use clip-on ferrites, and a coax line isolator (next to the tuner in the coax that leads to the radio) to block RF interference. So save yourself time and aggravation by purchasing 12 clip on ferrites and one line-isolator from the vendors mentioned below, and install them when you install and set up your modem.
Ferrite chokes come in two useful sizes: one is about 1" long with a 1/4" hole through the middle, and the other is about 1" long, with a 1/2 " hole through the center. Ferrite chokes act as RF blocks, allowing intended "differential-mode" signals to flow, but blocking any undesirable common-mode RF currents. Their primary function is to break up RF ground loops and keep RF current off of cables where RF interference can couple into everything. You should clip a ferrite choke onto both ends of the wire between the laptop and the Pactor-modem, onto both ends of the wire between the Pactor-modem and the SSB, onto both ends of the tuner control/power wire between your tuner and your SSB, and finally onto both ends of the antenna coax between the SSB and the tuner. If you have a remote control wire between a SCS PTC-II and your SSB, or between a second serial port on your laptop and your SSB, there should also be a ferrite choke on both ends of this wire. Most installations also benefit from ferrites clipped onto the power wires to the SSB and to the Pactor-modem. If your SSB interferes with your autopilot, try clipping ferrites onto both ends of all of your autopilot interconnections. The ONLY place that you SHOULD NOT clip a ferrite choke is onto the antenna lead-in wire between the High Voltage output of the antenna tuner and your backstay or whip antenna; the common-mode RF signal in this wire IS the intended signal, and must not be attenuated. Ferrites nearly always help, and in any event can do no harm, on all other wires.
Ferrite chokes with a 1/4 " hole are available from Radio Shack, or from any of the Marine Electronics Dealers listed on the opening page of the SailMail website. Another source of high-performance type-31 ferrite chokes is The Radio Works (www.radioworks.com) 800-280-8327. They come either with a 1/4" hole for $2 each, or with a 1/2" hole for $4 each. The chokes with a 1/4 " hole look neat when clipped onto the SSB and laptop wires, but the 1/2 " hole chokes allow you to put multiple turns of the wire through the choke, which is multiple times more effective. The 1/2 " hole choke is generally required to fit on the tuner control wire, the SSB power wire, and the antenna coax between the SSB and the tuner. When you clip on a ferrite choke, it is essential that there is no air gap between the two halves of the ferrite. If your ferrite will be a permanent installation, the best practice is to remove the two halves of the ferrite choke from the clip-on plastic case, mate the two halves around your cable, and then tightly tape the two halves together with stretchy plastic tape. This technique ensures that the two halves of the ferrite are tightly pressed together with no air gap between them. If you are neat and careful with the taping, the result can look very professional or you can snap the cover on over the tape. Again, get a dozen snap-on ferrites.
A ferrite Line Isolator is highly recommended to be put in the coax between the transceiver and the tuner (ideally near the tuner). A Line Isolator is a much beefier version of a clip-on ferrite choke (about ten times more effective) and blocks the stray RF path to ground via the coax shield and transceiver ground, forcing the antenna currents to use the proper ground strap that is connected to your antenna tuner. An excellent Line Isolator is model T-4 (ungrounded version) which costs $30 from The Radio Works (www.radioworks.com), 800-280-8327, their web site also has an excellent discussion on grounding and RF interference. Also, be sure to put two or more clip-on ferrite chokes on the tuner control/power wire, some near the tuner and others near the SSB.
4) A few tidbits...
I hope this helps....