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Old 12-09-2009, 02:15   #1
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Hotwiring My TV...

So I gets me new TV, carefully check current draw is less than 5 amps, bolt it in, plug into the cigarette lighter and settle down to watch "The Farmer Wants a Wife".

All goes well, and just when I'm relaxing all goes blank.

So I puts me hand on the cigarette lighter plug and quickly pull it back. That little blighter is hot.

I pull the plug apart and it's toast - literally.

Well to cut a long story short I hard wired the TV to the fuse.

Now I'm noticing that the 12V plug into the TV is getting hot.

What should I do?
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:04   #2
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What do you expect watching that show - it is trying to tell you something .
Seriously either the cable is unrated for the load (current draw) or the TV is drawing more than 5 Amps.

However, it the fuse is not blowing (and it is the right one), then the TV is probably not drawing too much current.

Easy solution - use heavier wiring and monitor heat.
More Technical solution - measure current flow with meter and then spec. fuse and cable size to suit.

Oh.. just re-read your post, it is the plug going into the TV set that is getting hot. So the heat tells us there is resistance in the circuit at this point.

Check plug contacts for correct mating, fit and corrosion, clean if possible. If all is good but still getting hot, replace plug and lead. I assuming it is a moulded one so possibly it has a high resistance where the wires are terminated into the contact.

Otherwise, the TV set contacts may be high resistance.

Or just take it back and get some warranty.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:16   #3
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You could just unplug the TV and go sailing.
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Old 12-09-2009, 18:39   #4
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2nd take: If the first end was toasted quickly, this indicates there was significant resistance in the toasted end, indicating poor manufacture. So if one end was crook, so might the other end.

Back to the shop for replacement or make you own (if the TV end connector is available as a separate item),
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Old 12-09-2009, 18:59   #5
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What does the manufacturers plate say it should draw and what does it actually draw?
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Old 12-09-2009, 22:37   #6
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Admiral's standing orders...

Frank,
The Admiral has issued strict orders of "No venturing out in strong winds". And she now knows (learned the hard way) how to "read" a weather forecast.

David,
Back of the TV says 6A at 12V (cannot detect any heat when running), power supply says 1.8 A at 100-240V 50/60Hz Output 6A at 12V (hardly gets warm). We were running it off a 5A fuse so allowing for the a slight additional allowance on the fuse and the extra load of the plugs I'm guessing <5A draw.

Of course the TV is only to check the weather. We were only testing. Won't happen again...
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Old 13-09-2009, 10:26   #7
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Personal rule of thumb, a 6A load on a 5A fuse is trouble. Generally you want to fuse at something in excess of the normal load, like 2x normal load. I'd run a 6A load on a 10A fuse.

Odds are the whole plug (if it came with the 5A fuse) is only designed for lighter loads, or that there is corrosion or bad wiring contacts generating the excess heat.

BTW, a 5A fuse on a 6A rated load, typically will slowly melt and blow over time.
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Old 13-09-2009, 10:40   #8
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I know, they are all over the place. But those cig plugs are the worst thing ever invented. For the most part you will not find a worse electrical connection than those pieces of junk. Trash them all on a boat and install proper 12Volt plugs. It's a cheap investment.
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Old 13-09-2009, 14:39   #9
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Proper 12V plug...

Tellie
So what is a proper 12V plug?
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Old 13-09-2009, 17:02   #10
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Is this an LCD TV ?
I was told and was under the impression, that they were actually 12 volt and had a power adapter in them.

Found some info here
Quote:
The Sharp LCD displays can be operated on 12 volts making them perfect for use as Mobile Video LCD's in your motor home or Marine video displays for your yacht.
Sharp LCD TV Monitor sharp aquos lcd flat screen tv

Full Listing Here
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Old 13-09-2009, 18:34   #11
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You could just unplug the TV and go sailing.
Yep. 10 points Frank.

Chris, I don't even know the show you are blabbering on about. You wanna finnish that boat and get your butt up the coast! Then all your entertainment will be staring YOU!



All the best

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Old 13-09-2009, 18:40   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cat man do View Post
Is this an LCD TV ?
I was told and was under the impression, that they were actually 12 volt and had a power adapter in them.

Found some info here

Sharp LCD TV Monitor sharp aquos lcd flat screen tv

Full Listing Here
Interesting that the second entry in the "full listing here" is on a forum where a guy has just about the same problem.
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Old 14-09-2009, 00:38   #13
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Not starring me...

Yes, this is an LCD TV, 22" Voxson, $A499 at Harvey Norman.

I forgot to factor in the DVD player when estimating power usage. Without the DVD it could be using 4 amps or less.

Many of the smaller LCD's come with a separate power supply. Ours came with a picture of one inside a boat on the box so I knew it was suitable for marine use...
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Old 14-09-2009, 01:58   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boracay View Post
Tellie
So what is a proper 12V plug?
I use these Hella ones. Although smaller they have a higher current rating than standard car cigarette lighter plugs/sockets. As well as this 15 Amp Standard Hella Plug : Trucker Accessories : Maplin there is a version with cigarette lighter socket adapter if needed.

Regards
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Old 14-09-2009, 03:27   #15
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I’ve never been happy with the normally available 12VDC outlets (receptacles) - not the W.P. Bi-Pin Deck Connections (Perko1189 Series, Cole-HerseyM121-BP, SeaFit, & etc), and especially not the Lighter Socket type (commonly fitted to accessories).

For 12 Volt DC accessories, I use “Midget Twist-Lock Devices” (2 Pole, 2 Wire, Polarized, NEMA Code ML-1), such as the:
Hubbell #HBL7526C Flanged Receptacle (or Cooper #7468 etc.)
mated with the Hubbell #HBL7545C Plug (male cord cap) (or Cooper #7467 etc.).
Standard Weather-Proof Coverplates are readily available.
The series even has a female cord cap (to make an extension cord) #HBL7506C (or Cooper #7464N etc.)

Although these devices are intended for AC use (UL rated for 15A 125VAC - polarized), they are an excellent alternative to the conventional DC outlets.
They are rugged, corrosion resistant, easily installed, attractive, and best of all “Twist-Lock”.

Receptacle is about 1-1/4" outside diameter x 1" deep.

Not normally available at Marine stores, these NEMA type "ML-1" Midget devices are available at any good Electrical (or Industrial) Distribution Supply house.

See also:

12V DC Receptacles (Outlets)

Here they are in black /w S/S flange. Mine are in all nylon, white bodies.
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