Originally Posted by Truxton
The esiest way to access it is via the back. The rudder reference unit is the one with it's own cable, basically you need to take it off and sit it on it's side with the motor cover downwards (the motor cover is the dome shaped round one) and then remove all the larger allen key bolts on the side now facing you, I think there is four long and one shorter,from memory. There are slots in the housing to help pop the cover off. You will then need to remove all the pins that the gears rest on so you can remove the arm. Note that 3 are steel
but the fourth is plastic. once all that is out of the way you need to remove the next cover which holds the clutch
and the reference unit is right there.
It is easier than it sounds and the thing is very cleverly designed and easy to work on.
Will take more photos if I ever have to strip it down again.
This guy knows what he's talking about. I ordered the potentiometer he linked in his first post and installed it today. I unbolted the entire drive unit from under the deck
so I could work on it comfortably, which turns out to be almost a necessity.
I took it apart based on the above instructions and it really was pretty self explanatory. Once I had access to the feedback sensor (potentiometer) I tapped it out of the housing then unsoldered the wires. Soldered the wires onto the new ones, which despite never having soldered before was totally painless. Reassembly was a little finicky but still easy. I'd suggest taking pictures to remind yourself of each step.
I did the dockside wizard and then went out for the sea trial wizard and everything performed flawlessly. We'll see if she holds up in the long run, but I'm hopeful.
wanted $800 to service
it, not including wedging their bodies in my lazarette to remove the drive unit. The latter was the hardest part of the operation. Screw them. It cost $30 for the potentiometer and $10 for the soldering iron. 2 hours total time from when I first picked up a wrench to putting the the tool bag away.
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