Extending Radar Cable - Page 2

fairbank56 · 23-07-2007, 08:13

Iv'e done a LOT of these radar plug jobs. The guys on racing sailboats like to be able to quickly remove/install them. Lately Iv'e been using AMP products from Mouser.com Here's a couple pic's. I just douse them inside and out with corrosion block and their fine as long as they are below deck and don't get directly drenched in water. There's a grommet that goes on the strain-relief part.

bobs · 31-03-2008, 10:12

hi there again,
would it be possible to use a light version raymarine cable ( the 2kw dome type) for a 4kw dome ?
i know raymarine's advice is to apply the heavy duty cable , but what effect could i expect using the ' light cable ' ?

Thanks for the feedback

High Cotton · 31-03-2008, 10:37

We just went through this scenario to install a new RAYMARINE 2kw RADOME to our E80........
after a lot of research and consternation we went with the 25m RAYMARINE 2kw cable.......
I couldn't find ANY marine technician that would recommend or perform a splice for me.... so after investing a small fortune for the RAYMARINE E80, and all integrated electronics, switches/depth sounder/GPS/RADOME.......
we decided to bite the bullit and buy the correct 2kw cable........

I'm sure I'll be happy with that decision....JMHO, of course.

High Cotton · 31-03-2008, 10:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobs

hi there again,
would it be possible to use a light version raymarine cable ( the 2kw dome type) for a 4kw dome ?
i know raymarine's advice is to apply the heavy duty cable , but what effect could i expect using the ' light cable ' ?

Thanks for the feedback

Obviously, you're talking about "twice" the power with the 4kw.....
so using a 2kw cable doesn't work for me.

**David M** · 31-03-2008, 11:58

Despite what Furuno says, with a Furuno 1040, 4kW open array that is around 12 years old, I am getting away with a terminal block near the CRT. No problems and the image is fine. So what Furuno is saying is that it could happen and not that it will happen. I would try the "could" (the terminal block route) before I spend the bucks on a longer cable.

Northeaster · 31-03-2008, 12:24

EngNate - would something like a 25 pair Cat5 BIX (punch-on) telecom connector strip work. The unshielded part could be kept short as the wires are fanned out behind the strip, and the indiviual wires are punched on to the strip. Then then other cable's wires would be punched on the front of the strip.

link:

Electronic Product Online - NORDX/CDT 1A Bix Block

I do not have an electrical background, so I am ignorant to what this would due to signal degradation, impedance, etc - That's why I am asking you guys!!!

senormechanico · 31-03-2008, 18:10

"I ought to have included words of caution from the start - it's not as easy in practice as it is on the screen. You must be fully proficient in the required skills. An inline splice requires technique for overlapping and soldering shields without damaging the insulation of the conductors below. Conductor splices must be staggered, and each length conforming to the overall splice length. The conductors must be twisted together neat, tight and close, and the length still conforming to the overall splice before soldering each. Proper cutters and cutting technique is required to insure that a strand of wire cannot poke into another conductor. One of these splices takes me a couple of hours or more to do - it may be cheaper to buy the cable - when I have to do it, saving $ on the cable is not the reason."

Oh, have I ever been there! (Especially with my current boat)

Nate knows whereof he speaks. A good splice takes a lot of time and concentration.

Steve B.

Extemporaneous · 24-05-2009, 21:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by EngNate

I did once take a series of photos of making a radar cable splice, & do promise to annotate and post them sometime soon.

Hi EngNate.
Did you ever end up posting your radar cable splice pic's?
If you did, can you point me the right direction?

Thanks,
Extemp.

forsailbyowner · 25-05-2009, 02:56

I ended up mounting radome on backstay instead of mast when I had same issues. Saved a lot of hassle.

rcdelude · 27-06-2009, 19:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairbank56

You don't say how much extra you need or which scanner you have but, I have a bunch of 10meter (light)(2 power cores) cables. They are not extension cables but you can make your own out of one of them. The Raymarine number is M92692. You can have one for the price of shipping.

Eric

Hi Fairbank 56

I read an old post stating that you have a few Raymarine m92692 interconnect cables. If still true I would like to acquire one for my pathfinder m92650 radome.

fairbank56 · 28-06-2009, 07:41

Well now I see that these cables go for around $200 so I can't very well give one away but can give a great discount. PM me with an offer.

Eric

rcdelude · 29-06-2009, 11:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by fairbank56

You don't say how much extra you need or which scanner you have but, I have a bunch of 10meter (light)(2 power cores) cables. They are not extension cables but you can make your own out of one of them. The Raymarine number is M92692. You can have one for the price of shipping.

Eric

Hi Eric

Roger that on accessory (cable) cost. Trying to keep my cost low due to the fact I am fully restoring my 22' Eastern lobster boat (transom, deck, hull, cabin, paint, wiring and electronics). Picked up a rl70 plus display with the radome on ebay. The display was said to work fine but the radome was sold as is and should be tested in a week or two. In your earlier 2007 July post you mentioned you would let one go for the price of shipping. I will be glad to pay $50.00 plus the price of shipping if that works for you or maybe we could trade for some lobster if you are in the Portsmouth NH area.

Bob

Cheechako · 29-06-2009, 12:41

Terminal blocks seem to work fine, although not recommended by manufacutrer. One of mine was even in the bilge (under the floorboards anyway!)

fairbank56 · 30-06-2009, 04:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcdelude

Hi Eric

Roger that on accessory (cable) cost.
Bob

I sent you a private message.

Eric

GordMay · 30-06-2009, 06:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Terminal blocks seem to work fine, although not recommended by manufacutrer.

Radar Junction Box Splice Cautions:
1. Screened conductors: The screen or drain shield must be spliced adjacent to it’s core conductor, and the unscreened length of core kept to a minimum (<1.25").
2. Connect all power, data, & co-ax cables in the same sequence (on terminal strip) as used for manufacturer’s connector or terminal. Send & receive conductors will normally be adjacent to each other.
3. Small conductors: Take extraordinary care not to damage very small conductors.
4. Ferrites: Most manufacturers will recommend a specific ferrite bead, to be installed on each end of the splice.
Protection: Protect all cables from moisture, UV & weather exposure, mechanical abrasion, heat, etc. Avoid tight bends.

Excerpted from a previous discussion, with much more good advice (Rick & others):
Goto ➥ Furno Radar Install

31-03-2008, 10:37	#18
High Cotton Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Miami Shores Boat: Endeavour E40 Posts: 261	We just went through this scenario to install a new RAYMARINE 2kw RADOME to our E80........ after a lot of research and consternation we went with the 25m RAYMARINE 2kw cable....... I couldn't find ANY marine technician that would recommend or perform a splice for me.... so after investing a small fortune for the RAYMARINE E80, and all integrated electronics, switches/depth sounder/GPS/RADOME....... we decided to bite the bullit and buy the correct 2kw cable........ I'm sure I'll be happy with that decision....JMHO, of course. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]____________________________________________ S/V High Cotton "Had I known I would live this long, I would have taken better care of myself !!! AUTHOR: My dear ole MOM

31-03-2008, 11:58	#20
David M Moderator Moderator Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: San Francisco Bay Boat: research vessel Posts: 5,188	Despite what Furuno says, with a Furuno 1040, 4kW open array that is around 12 years old, I am getting away with a terminal block near the CRT. No problems and the image is fine. So what Furuno is saying is that it could happen and not that it will happen. I would try the "could" (the terminal block route) before I spend the bucks on a longer cable. __________________ David Life begins where land ends.

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23-07-2007, 08:13	#16
fairbank56 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 196	Iv'e done a LOT of these radar plug jobs. The guys on racing sailboats like to be able to quickly remove/install them. Lately Iv'e been using AMP products from Mouser.com Here's a couple pic's. I just douse them inside and out with corrosion block and their fine as long as they are below deck and don't get directly drenched in water. There's a grommet that goes on the strain-relief part.

31-03-2008, 10:12	#17
bobs Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 42	hi there again, would it be possible to use a light version raymarine cable ( the 2kw dome type) for a 4kw dome ? i know raymarine's advice is to apply the heavy duty cable , but what effect could i expect using the ' light cable ' ? Thanks for the feedback

31-03-2008, 12:24	#21
Northeaster Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Boat: Seafarer 30 Impetuous Posts: 319 Images: 45	EngNate - would something like a 25 pair Cat5 BIX (punch-on) telecom connector strip work. The unshielded part could be kept short as the wires are fanned out behind the strip, and the indiviual wires are punched on to the strip. Then then other cable's wires would be punched on the front of the strip. link: Electronic Product Online - NORDX/CDT 1A Bix Block I do not have an electrical background, so I am ignorant to what this would due to signal degradation, impedance, etc - That's why I am asking you guys!!!

31-03-2008, 18:10	#22
senormechanico Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Whidbey Island WA Boat: Dragonfly 1000 trimaran Posts: 1,374	"I ought to have included words of caution from the start - it's not as easy in practice as it is on the screen. You must be fully proficient in the required skills. An inline splice requires technique for overlapping and soldering shields without damaging the insulation of the conductors below. Conductor splices must be staggered, and each length conforming to the overall splice length. The conductors must be twisted together neat, tight and close, and the length still conforming to the overall splice before soldering each. Proper cutters and cutting technique is required to insure that a strand of wire cannot poke into another conductor. One of these splices takes me a couple of hours or more to do - it may be cheaper to buy the cable - when I have to do it, saving $ on the cable is not the reason." Oh, have I ever been there! (Especially with my current boat) Nate knows whereof he speaks. A good splice takes a lot of time and concentration. Steve B.

25-05-2009, 02:56	#24
forsailbyowner Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Tampa to New York Boat: Morgan 33 OutIsland, Magic Posts: 652	I ended up mounting radome on backstay instead of mast when I had same issues. Saved a lot of hassle.

28-06-2009, 07:41	#26
fairbank56 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 196	Well now I see that these cables go for around $200 so I can't very well give one away but can give a great discount. PM me with an offer. Eric

29-06-2009, 12:41	#28
Cheechako Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Skagit City, WA Boat: Fellippi 32 Posts: 2,371	Terminal blocks seem to work fine, although not recommended by manufacutrer. One of mine was even in the bilge (under the floorboards anyway!)