Re spliced stranded wire...I've seen some fail, and heat up enough to shed their solder . So I won't use soldered splices except for splicing of small signal-carrying wires (sensors etc)
Re euro style terminal blocks - in the better ones, the wire is compressed by a tinned tab, which the screw presses down on. The screw does not bear directly on the wire, so there's no twisting/grinding force applied to the wire. I also believe that the terminal bodies are decent: nickel-plated brass or copper, or similar, not chromed steel
. So I'm pretty confident using them in our boat. I also note that Furuno
uses such blocks on alot of their units.
Originally Posted by sdowney717
I suppose all those soldered circuit boards should have all the components crimped on or the high resistance solder will prevent them from working.
In a well-designed electronic device, the solder traces and pads are designed to provide a reliable soldered connection for the expected currents. Most electrical
codes (UL, NEC, ISO etc) require that AC power-carrying conductors in equipment
are mechanically secured before soldering (eg wrapped around terminals). Also, most manufacturers ensure that high-current DC paths are similarly robust before soldering.
Finally, yes I've seen some spectacular failures on PC boards where a solder joint fails, the solder melts, and the heat burns a nice little crater on the PC board. But the failure is contained by the unit's chassis (hopefully) and the device's internal or external over-current protection protects the power wiring
Do not put soldered splices into your boat power wiring
. Just don't.