For instance, you'll want to wire a continuous duty solenoid from your break panel to the solenoid then run power directly from your batteries to the computer on this install. You'll also need to mount a fuse other than the one in your breaker panel inline with the power to the course computer. That's just one difference.
errr.... Why , its not a particulary high current
draw, if you have a good high current
feed to the panel then tee off it. Follow the recomendations in the Raymarine
manual ( it doesnt require a dedicated battery
feed). thousands of Beneteau
installations cant be wrong. Also dont put in an inline fuse, the Corepack already has one, the circuit breaker will do just fine and is one less thing to find and replace in a panic.
The upper level Raymarine systems use and network cable that's different than the sea talk you're used to on the wheel pilot. It uses and Sea Talk ng network that involves and back bone cable and drop into the back one from the computer and the controller. A remote control also plugs into the course computer via a network cable that is different from the network the computer and controller are on...
Not really,,, Corepacks can use either NMEA2K ( Seatalkng) or Seatalk(1) If you want a simple install then just use seatalk
and forget about Seatalk
NG, this does mean you cant use the ST70 control head
, but theres the 6002 or 7002 to use instead.
Currently Ray dont have a NMEA2K compatible remote
control ( ie wireless control) so thats an advantage of using seatalk(1) ie it can be wired in onto the seatalk loom, if you are using seatalkng , then youll need a seatalk(1) cable, but since nearly every seatalkng ( 2K) install tends to have some ordinary seatalk cabling anyway, this isnt an issue in most cases.
For D-I-Y installations of the fluxgate/compass get a good hikers compass - the one that opens up and has lots of lines and stuff on the dial and usually a crosshair and sight notch.
- - With the boat in a fixed position, take a sighting down the length of the boat between bow and stern to find out a base reading for the boat. Then go inside and within the physical limits of the fluxgate/compass cabling, put the hikers compass in each position and see what the defection off your reference heading is. Some area will have large deflections due to metal objects close by and others will have little or no deflection. These are the preferred spots available to install the fluxgate/compass.
Theres no real need to do all this, the compass needs to be generally away from metallic items or heavy electric
current, follow the install manual, Many are fitted in the bottom of a typical cupboard. It doesnt have to be madly accurately posiitoned, Rays calibration routine looks after all that and a offset can be programmed in to correct any mis-positioning. AGain its simple and all in the installation manual.
As to the Arm installation, Id suggest stick with the electro linear unit. Its needs a good mounting pad ( though Id countance against making it stronger then the tiller arm or quadrant, as you need a mechanical fuse if the drive ever locks up). Rudder
arm reference ( though not strictly required with X-30) is realtively easy, its needs a simple pad installed to line up the arm with the quadrant. Its doesnt have to be too bombproof.
All this is straightforward and outlined in the installation manual. The main PITA is generally access and the ability to be double jointed and glass in things upside down.
Sorry should have mentioned the othre major issue is either connecting onto the quadrant or utilising a seperate tiller arm, which may require a keyway to be machined in the rudder
stock , hence rudder removal
. The quadrant may have a fixture that accepts a autopilot
drive arm or it may not, There are arguments for and against driving the quadrant or a tiller arm. Many french production boats use the quadrant others fit a tiller arm.